Noob member with some majorly noob questions... ***UPDATED 2x***

[pauloman80]

Greetings from central Florida.

***UPDATE 2x: I have since figured out nearly everything I need.  Seems my cry for help was premature.  However, I do still have a few questions regarding the schematic for the Krankosaurus (which, I realized about two hours ago, has a version 3.0 that I didn't notice, helped answer several other questions). 

First: what is the box in the lower left below J2 on the third page of the .pdf file?  Is that the power jack?

Next: I saw the notice that LED wiring isn't shown in the schematic.  How then should I work LEDs into the mix?  Small Bear has a PC wiring board for their 3PDT switch that allows for easy addition of an LED and also provides for true bypass operation, but the terminals don't seem to line up with how the switch wires up to the PCB.  Suggestions?

Lastly: ... crap, I forget.  I'll leave this space here in case I remember.

Thanks in advance, all.

-pauloman80

[pandadandan]

Assuming you just want one LED:

From the 9v DC jack, you need to run an additional wire.  This wire should connect to a resistor (4k7) which then connects to the long lead of an LED.  The short lead then needs to have a wire connecting it to the unused (top right) lug of the 3pdt switch.

If you want two LEDs, you just run two wires from the 9v DC jack and double up.

DC JACK     ---------   [4.7k resistor]   -----    ~~~~~~~[LED]~~~~    -----------    3PDT

[pauloman80]

Thanks kindly, Panda.  Just to clarify, are the terminals on the bottom of the switch normally marked like the diagram (ABC across, 123 down)?  Just want to make sure I make the right connections.  Also, any suggestions on mounting the LED's so they stay in place poking through the enclosure? 

Last question: Madbean lists the Gain and Boost pots as 5kC.  I thought it might be equivalent to a 500k audio pot, but now I'm not so sure.  Once again, Small Bear lists it differently.  I know 100kB refers to a 100k linear pot, but I made a guess at what C stood for (C means 100 in Roman numerals, so I thought it might translate to 500k).  How do I translate Madbean's listed value to find the right pot at Small bear?

Thanks again, dood.

Assuming you just want one LED:

From the 9v DC jack, you need to run an additional wire.  This wire should connect to a resistor (4k7) which then connects to the long lead of an LED.  The short lead then needs to have a wire connecting it to the unused (top right) lug of the 3pdt switch.

If you want two LEDs, you just run two wires from the 9v DC jack and double up.

DC JACK     ---------   [4.7k resistor]   -----    ~~~~~~~[LED]~~~~    -----------    3PDT

[lincolnic]

You could use a bezel for your LEDs so they'll stay exactly where you want them.

C is a reverse audio taper. Small Bear doesn't seem to have too many values for that, but to be fair I didn't look that hard - you should definitely double check.

[lincolnic]

Actually, I've got a question of my own. Dan, what's the difference between wiring the LED like you just described versus wiring it to the LED pads on the PCB, and wiring the switch to the PCB as well? Is there a particular benefit to using the method you described?

[pauloman80]

Thanks, Lincoln.  I was suspicious that's what the C stood for.  They do have the pot design I want to use in 5k reverse at Small Bear, so I'll be good to go.  Bezel is a good idea, I also got a suggestion on just using a bit of hot glue.  

EDIT: I think one of the reasons Dan suggested wiring the LED from the DC jack is there aren't LED pads on this particular PCB, so the LED's have to be jerry-rigged into the wiring.

You could use a bezel for your LEDs so they'll stay exactly where you want them.

C is a reverse audio taper. Small Bear doesn't seem to have too many values for that, but to be fair I didn't look that hard - you should definitely double check.