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Newbie Fat Pants Parts Question

Started by RichardFX, September 08, 2012, 07:57:55 AM

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RichardFX

Hi guys and gals,

I was just about to order the parts for my first DIY pedal (and PCB from here), and just wanted to double check my parts list before I went ahead and confirmed the order.

The main thing that I was having trouble with, was the capacitors.  I pretty much went off a picture that I found in this forum, to work out which ones were Electrolytic capacitors, however with the others, I had to stab in the dark.

Was I correct in choosing:
Electrolytic capacitors for C1, C7, C8, C9
Vikiin Box capacitor for C3, C5, C6
Vikiin Dipped Ceramic capacitor for C2

I am wanting the best options rather than the cheapest.  Should I spend the extra go for Orange Drops for everything except the electrolytics?  Or should I go metal film capacitors?  They seemed to offer only Orange Drop Capacitors, Tantalum, Electrolytic, Polyfilm (polyfilm or box), or Ceramic - I was unable to find Metal Film specifically at Mammoth Electronics. Any advice on the components is much appreciated.

Also was I correct in choosing 1/4 watt resistors?  I couldn't source a 3k3, wondering if it is an important for tone, as I might have to improvise with several resistors in series, or try source one at JayCar in Australia.

I did find another Fat Pants newbie part list question, however it was not the 2012 edition, and he had ordered from SmallBear, so I was unable to compare the parts list directly.  I did however take note of cranking up the resistor for the LED if it was too bright while using ultra bright LEDs.

I will add a picture of my parts list (may have to click on it if it resized it small), to make it easier to offer me tips.  Thanks in advance for any tips.


Vallhagen

Hi Richard.

You don't need bipolar electrolytic caps. Polarized are just fine.

Madbeans PCB-s and BOMs are beautifully consistent when it comes to caps:

Anything smaller than 1nF (the "pF" range): Ceramic caps
1nF -- 1uF (the "nF" range): Box / film caps
1uF and above (the "uF" range): Electrolytics.

Note: I have noticed that 1uF can be - for different Madbean projects - box/film OR(!) electrolytics. Check schematics. No worries for Fatpants though:)

I use "standard box" caps (eg Wima MKS2) or "cheap green ones", and all works fine for me so far. Other users/builders may add recommendations for best brand caps.

**

I am a little surprized that you dont find a 3k3 resistor. It is a common value that should be easily available.

Good luck:)
Yes i still have Blüe Monster pcb-s for sale!

...and checkout: https://moodysounds.se/

pryde

The box caps are fine that you have on the list. No need for orange drop, etc. If you build a "mojo" circuit (i.e. vintage fuzz face, etc) then use some fancy caps, mainly for looks.

If you can't find a 3k3 resistor, post a request in the parts bin area on the forum

RichardFX

Thank you very much for those tips.

QuoteAnything smaller than 1nF (the "pF" range): Ceramic caps
1nF -- 1uF (the "nF" range): Box / film caps
1uF and above (the "uF" range): Electrolytics.
That really helped me thank you Vallhagen.

I haven't had the experience to know the sound qualities between say dipped ceramic caps vs normal ones, and box caps vs metal film ones though.  Thanks for confirmation the box ones will be ok Pryde. Also cheers for the tip if I can't find the 3.3k resistor or other parts.

The parts I have changed from that picture are:
Vikiin Dipped Ceramic capacitor for C2 to a normal ceramic.
1x Mono plug to a Stereo one (after realising I forgot the stereo for power on/off on the input)

I stuck with the bi-polar electolytics, because I would of had to choose a 16v model for two of them to stick with all polorised caps (due to what was on offer), and I see in the pdf that some of the board goes up to 18v.  Originally I just saw audio grade on these parts, however I see your point, the bi-polar ones are more for AC electricity.  Will the bi-polar caps be detremental to my project?  If 16v was suitable in the first place, I would of asked are Tantalum caps any better than normal Electrolytic, as the wiki says less DC loss and lower impedence, all of which sound positive to me.

Thanks very much for your time with those tips.  I am glad my shopping cart has stayed alive for days while I decide these finer points.  I want to make sure it turns out to be a Fat Pants, and not a Fart Pants.

I'm going to have a crack and doing my own layout too, or use one of the other pedal's layouts that have a horizontal template, so it'll take up less realesate on my pedal board, as I can squish a pedal sideways, and still leave room for few other MadBean projects.  I might put the knobs on the side of the pedal too.  Has anyone had any luck squeezing the Fat Pants into a 1590A, or is that a bit enthusiastic?