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industrial 3PDT worth it?

Started by Om_Audio, August 10, 2012, 06:33:10 PM

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Om_Audio

Sent via soup cans and string.

stecykmi

i bought a few a while back. since they're a bit smaller than the "blue" switch, i use them in cramped builds sometimes. the action doesn't seem to need as much pressure to flip the switch. easily my biggest grip about them is the solder tabs are tiny. you pretty much have to use special wire.

i can't really speak to their long term quality, i haven't used any of them extensively.

angrykoko

Same here, bought 3 but haven't used any yet because of the solder tabs being so tiny, and I haven't been in a patient type mood to figure out a solution  ;)
The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese in the trap.

Om_Audio

Sent via soup cans and string.

angrykoko

The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese in the trap.

mgwhit

I've used them in a couple of builds, both of which have stood up to about 6 months of light gigging and rehearsals.  I used the wiring PCB on both, which is nice, but takes up a slightly larger 2D space than a standard 3PDT by itself.  If you can get your jack(s) to sit underneath the lip of the board you can still take advantage of the smaller form factor.

Om_Audio

Thanks guys.
I'd like to know if the guts are actually different or use better materials. I'd rather pay more for quality but am still not convinced. The wiring board is great though.
I just decided, I'm going to try one with the wiring board and see how it goes. I have a pedal now that sound is only present when switch is engaged to troubleshoot. Might not be the switch but I also have a Rub-A-Dub or 2 to build so I am just going to give them a try and report back.
Thanks,
C
Sent via soup cans and string.

Ang3lus

they are flimsy, i've had one break just by turning the shaft on it a bit too strong.

i guess it's my fault, but i've never had that happen with any other switch.

Om_Audio

Wow, good piece of info, thanks!
Sent via soup cans and string.

midwayfair

Quote from: Ang3lus on August 11, 2012, 07:15:32 PM
they are flimsy, i've had one break just by turning the shaft on it a bit too strong.

i guess it's my fault, but i've never had that happen with any other switch.


Whhhhaat. On most footswitches you can turn the top of it all day and it's not connected to anything. Why would this be made differently? That's just silly.

Om_Audio

Oh snap!
hah, jk.
I might just buy the standard cheap blue and the industrial and break them open and post pics of the guts. I have that type of personality since I was a kid to be curious about things and would take them apart. And usually that was the end of their working life.
:)
C
Sent via soup cans and string.

lincolnic

Quote from: Om_Audio on August 11, 2012, 08:09:44 PM
Oh snap!
hah, jk.
I might just buy the standard cheap blue and the industrial and break them open and post pics of the guts. I have that type of personality since I was a kid to be curious about things and would take them apart. And usually that was the end of their working life.
:)
C

I think that would be super interesting, if you did...but I might be the only one.

eldanko

These were all I used for a while (preferred the smaller form factor, didn't mind smaller tabs) and I haven't had a single problem.  I still prefer them in 1590A builds.
www.danekinser.com - Music, Builds, other nonsense

blakemoth

Quote from: midwayfair on August 11, 2012, 07:51:03 PM
Quote from: Ang3lus on August 11, 2012, 07:15:32 PM
they are flimsy, i've had one break just by turning the shaft on it a bit too strong.

i guess it's my fault, but i've never had that happen with any other switch.


Whhhhaat. On most footswitches you can turn the top of it all day and it's not connected to anything. Why would this be made differently? That's just silly.

@midwayfair : are you referring to the actual actuating post? I'm almost positive you're actually referring to screwing the nut down against the chassis - yes, they will break if you do that. Both nuts must be used on these - one against the bottom side of the face of the enclosure (to keep the enclosure from crushing down on the chassis of the switch), and one on the face of the enclosure.

@Om_Audio : these switches are rated for longer lifespans, but they must be installed correctly. We've heard great feedback on them, and I'd love to hear yours as well - critique is always welcome. Shoot me an email at blake@mammothelectronics.com, and I'll hook you up with a sample. I'd love to hear your thoughts on them.