honeydripper problems

[pinkjimiphoton]

hi folks,

built the honey dripper, used all 5% resistors (except for subbing 240's for the 220k's, cuz they were handy)

but ran into a boondoggle.

it passes signal. i KNOW it's working...to a point. if i mess with the opamps, i can hear it do it's thing.

but...i think i misunderstood the instructions, and i hope i got it right.

the switch and pots are supposed to mount to the back of the board (solder side), right? if not, i need to desolder them all and mount them from the component side of the board.

all the voltages seem to be good, and it definitely passes signal, but no effect whatsoever unless i yank one of the lm324's half way out. (i know, not reccomended)..

quadruple checked all connections, no solder bridges, no cold solder. all ic's socketed, as are the input cap and r 21 (i have a 10k trimmer there to adjust it)

so....did i misread the instructions? hoping all i have to do is unsolder the switch and re-do it. big job, but not impossible.

also...REALLY dumb question...the little metal stop on the switch had fallen out. does this need to be set on hole #4? without it, there's actually 12 possible positions, assuming the first 4 are where it's at.

thanks !! i really wanna get this thing buttoned up!

also...FWIW...the knobs do nothing either.

right now it kinda sounds like a "stuck" flanger.

will post voltages if suggested, but they all seem pretty good.

peace

jimi

[pinkjimiphoton]

ummm...where on the board would the revision number be? hoping i didn't build the wrong one!

looks a bit different than some of the others here on the forum that have extra resistors tacked across the switch etc.

i know now that the switch and pots ARE mounted right, so i guess i better get to work on some voltages.

thanks!

[madbean]

You've built the right one. The revision number is printed right below IC3.

Given that one LM324 is misbehaving I would focus attention on that. You are correct in that the switch and pots go underneath the board. The stopper ring should be in the fourth position on the rotary switch.

If the pots are not doing anything at all, you should audio probe around IC1A and the Fuzz pot to see why it's not doing anything.

[pinkjimiphoton]

thanks brian,

its not that the lm324 is misbehaving, it's ME misbehaving...i popped it out of the socket partially with the power on (can always replace it if need be, i know it's a bad practice but sometimes it'll be a slightly misplaced pin or something, pulling it out partially and popping it back in makes the effect trigger is what i meant)...it's sounding kind of like the colorsound vocalizer, but it's NOT sweeping.

i will take some voltage measurements and post them, perhaps my newb brain isn't firing on all cylinders either.


will also check around ic 1 a and see if anything seems amiss; thanks for the guidance, really appreciated. the GOOD thing is that is DOES pass audio, and effects it..now i just gotta find whatever stupid niggle is jamming me up.

that said, wicked impressed by the quality of the board!! really nice, and well laid out, too.

check back later...thank you sir!

peace
jimi

[pinkjimiphoton]

solved!!

i guess i got a bad batch of lm324's at tayda...replaced ic 1 with a radio shack one, and it came to life.

also touched up all the solder joints...the fuzz is a little mild, but adds a nice bit of "smoke" for the formants to hang on...

this would be KILLER in a wah shell with the depth controlled by a treadle!!

this is one of the best formant pedals i've used...it has a lot in it, but again, if it had a wah pedal, it would approach the ludwig phase II for the formant action.

thanks so much for a fun and rewarding project...as soon as i get a chance, i'll try and do a stupid pedal tricks episode to show it off a little (playing with the idea of mounting it in a wah enclosure tho)

righteous, brian!

peace!