clear coat for laser printed decals

[Thewintersoldier]

For those who use laser printed decals on enclosures, what clear coat are you using? I've been using the basic rustoleum clear gloss and get pretty good results but want to try something different. Ideally something water based so it doesn't smell, and something that doesn't react with the toner like the rustoleum. My first couple coats are misted on followed by more wet coats. I was looking at the minwax polycrylic but was wondering what you guys have had success with. Also something that wont yellow much would be awesome.

[jimilee]

Enviro


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[Thewintersoldier]

Enviro



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That seems like more hassle than what I'm currently doing. I watched the process and it's just not for me.

[mauman]

Check this recent thread:  https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=32088    Mike

[gordo]

I'm kinda liking the floor polish thing but I have to admit if the pedal is getting a lot of contact it's not as sturdy as clear coat.  I've been using the rustoleum stuff (2x I think it's called) and have had decent luck with it.  It doesn't eat laser printed decals.

[EBK]

Most recently, I've been using this:

It works ok.  I can't say that it is much different than other Rustoleum clears though, so I haven't really been helpful here.   

[davent]

I was using waterborne lacquers that were being sold as guitar finishes from StewMac. Sprayed with an airbrush, stated with StewMacs finish which they switched to Target7000 which i could get here. Last, the seller up here of the Target7000 started selling their own branded waterborne for instrument finishing which is what's on my shelf now.

No stink, have always sprayed indoors year 'round, wear a respirator, very little waste unlike a spray can, water cleanup, water clear, no milkiness, doesn't yellow, layers melt into one another if applied within the given window so no witness lines when level sanding.

Played around spraying various box store waterborne poly's and nowhere near as pleasing to use as the lacquers or as good results.
dave

[Thewintersoldier]

I'm kinda liking the floor polish thing but I have to admit if the pedal is getting a lot of contact it's not as sturdy as clear coat.  I've been using the rustoleum stuff (2x I think it's called) and have had decent luck with it.  It doesn't eat laser printed decals.

The 2x clear is what I have been using since I started this method. I find that the first couple coats have to be misted. If I go heavy at first the toner starts looking goofy. Although it may have to do with my printer settings.

[Bio77]

I used to use the brush on Polycrylic from Miniwax.  It seems to have held up fairly well.  Most of the spray options I have tried seem to get flaky on a pedal that gets used.  The no-film decals don't need a clear coat, which is why I moved to that direction.  But you spray color your boxes, so, I don't know how well the no-film would work for you.  I've had bad luck with even light powder coats.  The thick powder coats from Tayda work really well with the no-film.

[gordo]

I have noticed that warming up the 2x in hot tap water has helped and leaving the box in the sun before shooting it worked well in the summer.  That airbrush idea sounds pretty cool.  Water clean up would be the biggest benefit beyond health stuff.

[Thewintersoldier]

I used to use the brush on Polycrylic from Miniwax.  It seems to have held up fairly well.  Most of the spray options I have tried seem to get flaky on a pedal that gets used.  The no-film decals don't need a clear coat, which is why I moved to that direction.  But you spray color your boxes, so, I don't know how well the no-film would work for you.  I've had bad luck with even light powder coats.  The thick powder coats from Tayda work really well with the no-film.

I actually have moved away from painting enclosures, its no fun in winter and on smallbear its cheaper to get basic colors than a bare box. Tayda is like a .50 cents more for powdercoated over a bare enclosure. Plus its more durable. I may try the no film decal. Didn't you do a tutorial on it?

[davent]

I have noticed that warming up the 2x in hot tap water has helped and leaving the box in the sun before shooting it worked well in the summer.  That airbrush idea sounds pretty cool.  Water clean up would be the biggest benefit beyond health stuff.

Easy easy cleanup, no fumes, can spray inside year 'round, for painting, small bottles of acrylic paint with the same properties in endless available colours and the ability to mix your own colours.

Spray cans of anything were limited in use by the seasons, huge waste of paint in just spraying it, how many pedals do you want to paint the same colour in order to get your moneys worth from a single spray can, the fumes...
dave

edit; Another plus with going to acrylic paints and lacquers is you can ditch decals altogether and use the products to do 'wet' toner transfers instead, at least for straight black toners, never tried colour toner transfers.

[Bio77]

I actually have moved away from painting enclosures, its no fun in winter and on smallbear its cheaper to get basic colors than a bare box. Tayda is like a .50 cents more for powdercoated over a bare enclosure. Plus its more durable. I may try the no film decal. Didn't you do a tutorial on it?

More a trial and error in the open   
https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=29042.0

If you like Tayda enclosures and are printing mostly black, this method can't be beat, IMO.  I've got it pretty wired at this point, maybe I'll make a demo thread my next build.

[Thewintersoldier]

That would be great John. Always ready to learn something new.

[Willybomb]

I've been using Spraymax 1k or Upol Clear Gloss since my 3rd pedal out of 70 or so.