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Rotary Switch Question

Started by Timko, April 08, 2020, 06:01:09 PM

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Timko

I have a 3p4t switch that I want to wire for 5 different selections.

No Option
Option 1
Option 2
Option 3
Option 4

This is how I thought I could wire it.  I connected inputs to pins 5-8, and the output to Pole B.
4 - Off (nothing is wired here)
5 - Selection 1
6 - Selection 2
7 - Selection 3
8 - Selection 4

I thought that continuity for the B Pole would only happen for selection 5-8.  However, I noticed that for selection 4, continuity between the B pole and pin 8 is also selected.  Similarly, pin 4 has continuity to the B Pole in position 1, pin 5 has continuity in position 2, etc.  I'm using this switch:
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/electromechanical/switches-key-pad/rotary-switch/rotary-switch-3-pole-4-position-alpha-sr2612f.html

Should I order a 1p6t switch instead or is there a way to make this work with a 3p4t switch?

davent

It's just repeating itself, if your 4pole switch rotary switch has five positions it's set up wrong.

At the base of the bushing under the washer is another washer with a single tooth that goes into a slot, one of 11 under it. That is a stop that prevents the switch from turning beyond the desired number of positions. You need to reposition the tooth into the slot that gives you only 4 positions.

The body's the same for any combination of 12 positions, 1x12, 2x6, 3x4... but you can always set it to use fewer positions.

dave
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown

If my photos are missing again... they're hosted by photobucket... and as of 06/2017 being held hostage... to be continued?

diablochris6

Moving the little washer with the tab on it, you could essentially make a 3P4T a 1P with more throws. The catch is that you can't use poles B and C correctly anymore. It might not be the most efficient use of a rotary, but if you don't want to make a special order for a 1P6T, it will work just fine.
Build guides of my original designs and modifications here

Timko

#3
Ah, ok.  Thanks Chris!  I need to then use the A Terminal to do this, not the B I bet.  Let me try some various experiments with that.

EDIT:  Well, no dice.  I may try wiring pins 2-5 for my input, and wiring poles A & B together to be output.  I'm not sure though is that has some downstream effect though.

davent

On the 3P4T switch i have here, A connects to 1 in positions 1,5 & 9. A - 2 connects in position 2, 6 & 10.   A - 3, connects in positions 3, 7 & 11...

A 1 x 12 or 2 x 6 are easy to get and give you your 5 positions.
dave
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown

If my photos are missing again... they're hosted by photobucket... and as of 06/2017 being held hostage... to be continued?

Govmnt_Lacky

How can you have "5 selections" with a 4 throw switch?

Timko

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on April 09, 2020, 12:09:33 PM
How can you have "5 selections" with a 4 throw switch?

IDK.  DiabloChris had it working on one of his builds so I was trying to get it.  I ordered a 1p6t switch since I couldn't get it to work.

Thanks for the input everyone!  To be continued Saturday in the SIP build forum...

diablochris6

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on April 09, 2020, 12:09:33 PM
How can you have "5 selections" with a 4 throw switch?

So, i think it was a happy accident in my case. I tested all the contacts I could on the rotary (I snipped some of the unused ones off to save space) and found that somehow my A and B lugs are connected. I don't know if it was a faulty pot, or if my mangling bent something within the pot, but that is the key to getting the five positions. Even though lug B is tied to A, since B is not wired to anything else, it makes for an extra point of contact by connecting lug 5 to lug B that is linked to lug A, if that makes sense. I found one other website that explains how it's done, but his method is much more elegant and purposeful than mine was.
http://www.imajeenyus.com/electronics/20120615_modifying_rotary_switch/index.shtml
Build guides of my original designs and modifications here

Govmnt_Lacky

Quote from: diablochris6 on April 09, 2020, 05:30:00 PM
So, i think it was a happy accident in my case. I tested all the contacts I could on the rotary (I snipped some of the unused ones off to save space) and found that somehow my A and B lugs are connected. I don't know if it was a faulty pot, or if my mangling bent something within the pot, but that is the key to getting the five positions. Even though lug B is tied to A, since B is not wired to anything else, it makes for an extra point of contact by connecting lug 5 to lug B that is linked to lug A, if that makes sense. I found one other website that explains how it's done, but his method is much more elegant and purposeful than mine was.
http://www.imajeenyus.com/electronics/20120615_modifying_rotary_switch/index.shtml

But... you still had 5 positions... right?

Position 1: A connected to B
Position 2: A connected to 1
Position 3: A connected to 2
Position 4: A connected to 3
Position 5: A connected to 4

Even with this configuration, the rotary would need 5 positions which a standard 3P4T does not have.

Better off having an adjustable 1P6T switch and solder the A & B wires together on the single pole.

davent

I think you'd be okay if you jumpered A,B,C,D. Chris's link, the modder had a mess of 4P3T's to use up.

dave
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown

If my photos are missing again... they're hosted by photobucket... and as of 06/2017 being held hostage... to be continued?

diablochris6

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on April 09, 2020, 05:58:55 PM
But... you still had 5 positions... right?

Position 1: A connected to B
Position 2: A connected to 1
Position 3: A connected to 2
Position 4: A connected to 3
Position 5: A connected to 4

Even with this configuration, the rotary would need 5 positions which a standard 3P4T does not have.

Better off having an adjustable 1P6T switch and solder the A & B wires together on the single pole.

Turns out, I am using a 4P3T in my build (I'm such a dope for not noticing it sooner). Here's the real kicker though, even though it's a 4P3T, I opened it up and notice that pins A and B are connected with one contact pad, and C and D are connected with one contact pad, essentially making this a 2P6T with extra poles? It doesn't make sense. I must have been extremely lucky when I put this together because I would not have known this unless I dismantled the rotary.

So, in all situations A is connected to B
Position 1: A connects to throw 1, but throw 1 is not connected to diodes for clipping
Position 2: A connects to throw 2
Position 3: A connects to throw 3
Position 4: A connects to throw 4 (this would be position 1 for pin B, but as mentioned above B and A are internally linked)
Position 5: A connects to throw 5 (position 2 for pin B, but see above comment)

By setting the washer to 5 positions, I can get all the clipping options I was going for. It makes sense since this 4P3T is acting like a 2P6T, but it similar results should still be attained with a "normal" rotary if pins A and B are connected.

Timko, sorry for any confusion! Obviously, I would have never known that my build was a fluke without you asking questions. Now I can update the build notes.
Build guides of my original designs and modifications here