Tinning an etched board

[keysandguitars]

I've been searching through the threads regarding what to do after a board is etched. I read somewhere Brian used to tin his boards but no longer felt the need (can't find that thread now). What should I be doing after my board is etched, assembled and tested to prevent the copper from corroding? Is there a PCB lacquer that  you apply or should I be using liquid tin before soldering?

TIA,
Brandon

[jimmybjj]

People are of differing opinions. I like tinning mostly because it looks nice. If your worried about corrosion and want really want to tin just use solder to tin all of the traces. Takes some time but saves you from buying expensive tinning solution especially if your not producing boards on a larger scale.

[rullywowr]

I would also suggest that on your next mouser order you get a flux pen.  They are about 5 bucks and make tinning so easy and sweet.  I also hit up the 3DPT switches with them because sometimes those 9 lugs are a bear to solder.

[FredGarvin]

I used 4% silver solder to tin my Big Muff pcb and it turned out fine. Just take your time and don't rush, and use a lower wattage soldering iron, 35 watts.

THe underside looks like the old EH pcb's.

http://users.eastlink.ca/~aszwec/pics/MuffPi1.jpg
http://users.eastlink.ca/~aszwec/pics/MuffPi2.jpg

[cjkbug]

you can buy a bottle of tinnit at allied electronics. I forget the price but they sell something like a 6 oz. bottle for under $10 IIRC. you soak your board in it for about a minute and that's it. a small bottle is enough to do dozens and dozens of boards. and you don't risk any solder bridges. I'd only use solder to tin very simple layouts.

[stecykmi]

i don't see the need. corrosion only affects the surface that's exposed to air so there should be no difference electrically.

the only thing i would consider doing to my boards after etching is to put a solder mask to prevent accidental shorting to the enclosure.

[jkokura]

I've found tinned boards are easier to solder to actually. I've worked with probably a hundred different boards, and the tinned ones are better to solder to and desolder from than the non tinned. I actually prefer a single sided, tinned board over a solder masked plated through manufactured board sometimes. Especially when desoldering. I REALLY dislike desoldering plated through holes on manufactured boards.

Jacob

[keysandguitars]

Is there a tinning solution that you'd recommend?

[irmcdermott]

I've been using Liquid Tin. I've heard that the Tinnit solution is good as well (cheaper than Liquid Tin too).

[cjkbug]

I've found tinned boards are easier to solder to actually. I've worked with probably a hundred different boards, and the tinned ones are better to solder to and desolder from than the non tinned. I actually prefer a single sided, tinned board over a solder masked plated through manufactured board sometimes. Especially when desoldering. I REALLY dislike desoldering plated through holes on manufactured boards.

Jacob

exactly, soldering is a snap. especially if the board sits for a while.

[bigmufffuzzwizz]

I've found tinned boards are easier to solder to actually. I've worked with probably a hundred different boards, and the tinned ones are better to solder to and desolder from than the non tinned. I actually prefer a single sided, tinned board over a solder masked plated through manufactured board sometimes. Especially when desoldering. I REALLY dislike desoldering plated through holes on manufactured boards.

Jacob

Yes I agree. I've found with professional fabbed boards if you apply heat the pads will come off, especially when desoldering and you don't have all the right tools. I haven't seen the copper come off an etched board yet though 

[jkokura]

I have. It's not difficult to do actually.

Jacob

[jimmybjj]

Yes I agree. I've found with professional fabbed boards if you apply heat the pads will come off, especially when desoldering and you don't have all the right tools.

+1 thats a freakin pain when that happens.