Every pedal I have built has switch pop and it's driving me nuts.

[Tuxedo3]

Title says it all. I follow this wiring diagram every single time.

So I guess my question is, how do I stop it? I know this is a huge can of worms I'm opening I've just begun selling some pedals to my friends and it's super unprofessional to have the pedals pop like they currently do. Thank you guys in advance.

[m-Kresol]

well, there's a lot of threads about that topic. put it into the search option to get a good overview.

my advice is to abandon 3PDT switching systems. They are huge, chunky, prone to failure and mechanical pops. I use optical switching these days with DPDT switches and an optocoupler. The DPDT are more sturdy and have less mechanical action. With the opto and daughter pcb you need, it's a bit more expensive, but it's worth it imo.
another option would be soft touch relay switching, but that is way more pricey and you need a programmed micro controller. You could do it with a regular SPST switch without the soft touch though.

having pull-down resistors is usually always a good way to start.

[daleykd]

another option would be soft touch relay switching, but that is way more pricey and you need a programmed micro controller.

You can also use a 555 timer.

[electrosonic]

Or a CD4013 or a CD4069.

Andrew.

[selfdestroyer]

If its happening to every pedal you built it may be a part you are using from your stash. I have had problems with popping with One-Spot power supplies and also with doggy electrolytic caps. Like others have said, there are many different things can cause a pop.

Recently, like others have said, I moved to Grind Customs Lumen. Using a DPDT and a optocoupler.

Cody

[Govmnt_Lacky]

The DPDT are more sturdy and have less mechanical action.

Actually....

DPDT stomps that are latching have the identical mechanical action. They merely have 2 poles instead of 3.

As for sturdiness... that depends on the switch manufacturer. 

[jubal81]

It sounds like it's not necessarily the switches that are the problem. Something higher in the chain could be leaking DC into the signal so any switching mechanism that doesn't have a DC blocking cap involved (true bypass) will pop because the DC potential is always shifting.


Starting with the pedal closest to the guitar signal, take each pedal out one by one and test if the following pedals still pop when switched.

[m-Kresol]

The DPDT are more sturdy and have less mechanical action.

Actually....

DPDT stomps that are latching have the identical mechanical action. They merely have 2 poles instead of 3.

As for sturdiness... that depends on the switch manufacturer. 

They have the same mechanism, yes. BUT, they have to move a smaller parts, so the force required is smaller. It's just easier to switch them imo with less travel length.
And yes, sturdiness will vary with manufacturers of course.

[midwayfair]

That switching scheme is more likely than others to cause switch pops from DC offset. Do a search and read some about the problem and it should become clear.

Though my guess is someone will be along shortly to spoil the search fun.

[warriorpoet]

That switching scheme is more likely than others to cause switch pops from DC offset. Do a search and read some about the problem and it should become clear.

Though my guess is someone will be along shortly to spoil the search fun.

Shoot, now I'm curious. I use the same scheme, but jumper 1 to 8. Only had one or two issues that I'm aware of.

[Leevibe]

That switching scheme is more likely than others to cause switch pops from DC offset. Do a search and read some about the problem and it should become clear.

Though my guess is someone will be along shortly to spoil the search fun.

I agree. You might have better luck with a scheme that grounds the input in bypass. I'd try rewiring just one pedal and see if you notice a difference. You might be surprised.

[warriorpoet]

That switching scheme is more likely than others to cause switch pops from DC offset. Do a search and read some about the problem and it should become clear.

Though my guess is someone will be along shortly to spoil the search fun.

I agree. You might have better luck with a scheme that grounds the input in bypass. I'd try rewiring just one pedal and see if you notice a difference. You might be surprised.

Looks like you and I may be spoiling the search fun 

[midwayfair]

DARN IT YOU GUYS.

 

[Drew Hallenbeck]

http://madbeanpedals.com/tutorials/downloads/MBP_FootswitchWiring.pdf

Surprised nobody linked this yet.
I always use the method in figure 13.
Haven't had any problems so far........