Introduction and question about diodes

[montavilla steve]

Hi guys,
i just got my first 6 boards in the mail and am starting to source parts!  I've built a few pedals before (the icon for my profile is a byoc rat build), but this is my first pedal build where I'm sourcing my own parts.  Building stuff (guitars, amps, effects) is usually fun and relaxing for me.  Unless either: 1. I'm trying to spray nitro (I'll gladly pay someone to shoot me in the foot before I try to spray/finish my own nitro again). or 2. I "need" the thing I'm trying to build.  Like when I was trying to finish a 1974-x build, but my other amp was out of commission.

Anyway, to my question: I'm on the mouser site to get the 1N5817 diode for the King of [K]lones build, but they all seem to have different ending letters. 
http://www.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Diodes-Rectifiers/Schottky-Diodes-Rectifiers/_/N-2xpr5?P=1z0y481&Keyword=1n5817&FS=True&Ns=Brand%7C0
What difference do these make? 
I imaging I might have a similar issue with other parts sourcing.  In general, is the part listed in the directions for the build close enough, and any type of that part acceptable?

Thanks for helping a noob!
steve

[oldhousescott]

With that particular component, the ending letters have to do with case style, packaging, and manufacturer (and perhaps temperature range). Note also that 2/3rds of the types listed are non-stocked or not available so you're really only looking at half a dozen or so items to choose from. Looking at the datasheet will help in this case. For through hole mounting you want DO-41 case style. But in this case, DO-204AL will also work.

In general, just make sure you're not getting surface mount devices (SMD), and that the value and voltage ratings are the same as what is spec'd. Also, most of Brian's boards use 5mm spacing for non-polarized caps, except those where he explicitly calls for orange drops or other. I prefer metal-film resistors everywhere, but some builds may call for carbon-film or carbon-comp in certain locations. Let your ears be the judge in those instances.

If you want to be less adventurous, get your parts from Small Bear or some other small parts shop. They've already done the selection narrowing for you at a slight premium.

[montavilla steve]

I guess my thing is that small bear has a 1n5818 (and not a 1n5817), and Brian's directions call for a 1n5817, so I thought I'd try mouser.  If it's all the same, I'm fine going with what's on small bear since I'm getting some other stuff from them.

[gtr2]

You should be fine with either of those.  D7 is for polarity protection.

[bigmufffuzzwizz]

From the couple of datasheets I checked, 1N5817-1N5819 seem to be interchangable.

[montavilla steve]

Would this be a good practice in-general?  Look at the data sheets to see if I can get away with a part that's one number off on the end?

[gtr2]

Not necessarily.  In this case your fine.  As you build more pedals you'll start to understand where you can make substitutions.  Datasheets and schematics are your friends   Plus we're here too 

Josh

[bigmufffuzzwizz]

I do encourage you to look at the datasheets of some components (mostly transistors,diodes,IC's) that you see a lot. Lots of specs, most of it will be of no use to you but there's certain things you'll be looking for. They may confuse you, but they'll never hurt you!