Bacon Bits boost question

[KevinK]

I was looking for a transparent boost for the internals of a guitar I'm making. I assume one could hook the out of the guitar before the jack, and put the boost circuit in between to knock it in and out of the circuit.

I won't be using an LED, so one of those and the resistor connected to it will not be needed. I was going to put a 500k multi-trim pot in place of an external pot. Going to set it once, and leave it. Same with the "warm" switch. Going to use a board mount single DIP switch. I want the most CLEAN boost I can get.

I was also wondering, since I am already in possession of one, would a 100uf tantalum cap work in place of a 100uf electrolytic? I'm sure it would be fine. Just asking.

Any advice offered will be welcome.

[drolo]

The tantalum cap will be fine for power filtering.

[midwayfair]

What's the voltage rating on the capacitor and what are you planning to use for a power supply?

[KevinK]

20volt. 100uf on the tantalum. Using a 9v battery.

[midwayfair]

20volt. 100uf on the tantalum. Using a 9v battery.

You won't need it when using a battery. A battery doesn't have any switching noise or rectification to smooth out. Power filtering capacitors are for wall warts.

[KevinK]

So just revert back to the original design as far as the one chip goes?

[KevinK]

Anyone know what parts I wouldn't need using a 9v battery?
I am still going to buy the board, I'll just use jumpers to bypass what I don't need.

Any help would be appreciated.

[midwayfair]

Anyone know what parts I wouldn't need using a 9v battery?
I am still going to buy the board, I'll just use jumpers to bypass what I don't need.

Any help would be appreciated.

OMIT, not JUMPER. Neither of us mentioned the charge pump chip, so why would you suddenly think you were omitting that? 

You don't need the 100uF power filter capacitor with a battery because that capacitor is there to smooth out ripple created by an AC-to-DC power supply adapter. You do need the charge pump because it supplies appropriate power to your op amp (not to mention that if you leave it out, pin 4 of your op amp will not be connected to anything -- look at the connections on the schematic).

[KevinK]

Of course you can't remove that IC. If I implied that, it was not of my intention. It's needed to supply the + and - 9 volts to the op amp. I used something similar using a 555 timer chip.

So the rest, other than, the 100uf cap is needed?

I know even with batteries we'd use diod protection in case the battery was installed improperly.

I wish I could get board results like this at home.

[midwayfair]

Of course you can't remove that IC. If I implied that, it was not of my intention. It's needed to supply the + and - 9 volts to the op amp. I used something similar using a 555 timer chip.

So the rest, other than, the 100uf cap is needed?

I know even with batteries we'd use diod protection in case the battery was installed improperly.

I wish I could get board results like this at home.

Yes, everything but the 100uF, which you can add if you want (it won't hurt anything) but you don't NEED. And yeah, including the diode for polarity protection is a good idea still.