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3PDT troubleshoot

Started by teknoman2, January 01, 2013, 09:08:18 PM

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teknoman2

I finally etch an univox superfuzz and everything work very well,

I had fuzz sound and my voltages are correct (I check them from diystompboxes.com).

My main problem is :

I used madbean's standard wiring and when I engage the effect everything works well

but when I disable it, nothing works, I don't have clean sound.

What should I check first?

I believe something going wrong with the 3PDT switch.

gtr2

Pics would help a lot.  :)

Josh
1776 EFFECTS STORE     
Contract PCB designer

teknoman2

I will upload the picture in 5 min,

Also I have to notice that the led is on (when the effect is engaged)

when I insert one jack which is strange.

The normal way is when both input and outpout jack are in, and there is closed circuit.

I believe something is short between input and outpout.

teknoman2

here is a photo but I dont know if it help

snz728

hard to see with black wires in dark box---your output looks ok but I cant tell if you hooked up your input jack to the switch middle top row? or just to the board?

teknoman2

Lets put numbers on the pins of the switch,OK?

the switch is :

123
456
789


The center pin of the switch (no5) is going to the board which is the input,

no2 is going to the tip of the input jack which is also connect to no9.

no1 is going to the flat side of led,
no3 is going to the output of the board
no4 is connected to the gnd of the board and is also connected with no7 and no8.
no6 is going to the tip of the outpout of the jack.
no7 is connected to the sleeve of the input jack.

Probably somewhere there is a cold joint I believe between no2 and no9.

Any other suggestions?



jkokura

If you've wired it correctly, an it's still not working, cold joint or broken wire may be the issue. Particularly, that blue wire may be broken. Check for continuity between lug 2 and 9.

Jacob
JMK Pedals - Custom Pedal Creations
JMK PCBs *New Website*
pedal company - youtube - facebook - Used Pedals

angrykoko

I dunno, his wiring (as best I can see) looks ok.  Probe with your dmm's continuity tester to check the wires are ok.

Don't rule out a bad switch. I've had 3 lately. 1) on my dr boogie, it would be slow to "start up" and then randomly cut out. 2) couldn't turn my Karaoke party off  3) LED would only light when I turned the pedal upside down (after working fine for several months) on my Aeon OD.

These were all cheep 3PDT switches.

The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese in the trap.

angrykoko

something else that looks really weird in the picture is your LED and CLR resistor, they look like the 9v red wire and both sides of the resistor are all soldered to the LED Anode.

What is the thick black wire?  is that shielded wire?   

Maybe some pics from different angles would help.
The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese in the trap.

jimilee

Quote from: angrykoko on January 02, 2013, 02:14:08 AM
2) couldn't turn my Karaoke party off 


There is no of switch on the Karoke party! ahahahaha anyway,what's that?  ;D
Pedal building is like the opposite of sex.  All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

angrykoko

Quote from: jimilee on January 02, 2013, 02:55:01 AM
Quote from: angrykoko on January 02, 2013, 02:14:08 AM
2) couldn't turn my Karaoke party off 


There is no of switch on the Karoke party! ahahahaha anyway,what's that?  ;D

Hahahahaha!  I dont know why but my mind went straight into the gutter after reading that :)

Anyway, Karakoke Party is a very low part OD from Devi Ever: http://youtu.be/QJdbgPZ7cZg
The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese in the trap.

teknoman2

Quote from: jkokura on January 02, 2013, 01:39:10 AM
If you've wired it correctly, an it's still not working, cold joint or broken wire may be the issue. Particularly, that blue wire may be broken. Check for continuity between lug 2 and 9.

Jacob

I run some continuity tests using dmm and it appears that the blue wire doesn't work as expected,

Lungs no2 and no9 aren't always connected, which is strange,only when I engage the effect works

Probably there is a broken wire or bad connection.

Am I right?

Quote from: angrykoko on January 02, 2013, 02:26:19 AM
something else that looks really weird in the picture is your LED and CLR resistor, they look like the 9v red wire and both sides of the resistor are all soldered to the LED Anode.

What is the thick black wire?  is that shielded wire?   


The LED is ok, the pic isn't the best angle to check it,

The black wire is shielded wire cause I had a lot of humming when the board was out of the box.
Should I use shielded wire only for the input and output of the board?

Gledison

Quote from: teknoman2 on January 02, 2013, 01:16:36 AM
Lets put numbers on the pins of the switch,OK?

the switch is :

123
456
789


The center pin of the switch (no5) is going to the board which is the input,

no2 is going to the tip of the input jack which is also connect to no9.

no1 is going to the flat side of led,
no3 is going to the output of the board
no4 is connected to the gnd of the board and is also connected with no7 and no8.
no6 is going to the tip of the outpout of the jack.
no7 is connected to the sleeve of the input jack.

Probably somewhere there is a cold joint I believe between no2 and no9.

Any other suggestions?
Its unbelievable.
just got the same problem with my sea urchin! Than, checking the jumper between lug 2 and 9 of the 3pdt was possible to hear again the clean sound. The plastic of the wire melted and obstructed the conection between the jumper and the output jack!!!
thanks mate!!!
If i fart a lot,  it means that i'm a Gas expert ?

teknoman2

I believe it was my first etch and my first post,
a year after here is my latest build, a Klon........
I think there is a huge difference between now and then.
Here some pics....