first pedal build - Slow Loris. some general qiuestions

[guitjopicka]

Of course I am not up to snuff on my pedal parts ordering.  I have only pieced together one oedal before, and it was probably a decade ago and under supervision of a buddy.  So I ordered some parts that may or may not totally jive with this build.  

The questions:
1) for c5 it calls for an electrolytic, can I use a green mylar cap here, or is the polarity thing a real issue in this position?  I build amps and know that in some positions that use electrolytics, you could actu
ally use non polarized caps, but you usually find the value in an electrolytic so most just go with it.
 
2) c9 is supposed to be a box type cap.  I have an electrolytic.  Never used box caps before.  What is there purpose? Just a size/shape thing?  Can I use the one I have?

I also didn't buy PCB mounted pots or switches, so I will have to jerry rig them onto the PCB so I can mount the darn thing.  Sweet.  I will be building this and a odds from JMk Jacob in the next while, as long as I don't need to buy a bunch of other parts.

Thanks guys,
Ryan

[guitjopicka]

Guess we can add c7 to this list as well.  I have a non polarized cap for this position as well.

[croquet hoop]

Since it's said that you can use non-polarized caps in place of polarized ones, I'd say it's safe to use a green mylar cap (non-polarized) instead of an electrolytic (polarized) for c5 and c7. The only issue is that at these values, film caps are more expensive and bigger than electrolytics. If that's not a problem, then go for it.

If c9 (1 uFf) is meant to be a box type (just a subtype of film caps actually, they fuction the same as green mylar caps) then I guess it's in the audio path, and in these cases electro caps are not recommended (larger tolerance, can induce noise, etc.). If you still want to use an electro cap here, you can do so but be careful to orient it properly (watch the schematic to figure the orientation).