• Welcome to madbeanpedals::forum.

News:

Forum may be experiencing issues.

Main Menu

Recent posts

#91
Open Discussion / Re: Absence, update and reflec...
Last post by jessenator - September 11, 2025, 09:55:40 PM
Congrats! Big step to make it for yourself out there. Don't know if I'll always have an answer to questions, but looking forward to see what you put out there.
#92
Open Discussion / Re: Absence, update and reflec...
Last post by lars - September 11, 2025, 09:36:00 PM
This sounds like a awesome endeavor, and I look forward to seeing what your design aesthetic is. It's tough to stand out in the pedal business, and sometimes I think companies try to get too gimmicky. Ultimately, tried and true, functional pedals that feel like a nice piece of gear always stand out.
I would recommend that if you make a Phase 90-style clone, add the Wampler "tremolo" mod on a footswitch. It's a really unique-sounding mod that I've never seen MXR make available, and it would really help your pedal to stand out in the sea of phasers. In fact, always put mods on a footswitch. No companies seem to do that. They always either have a ton of options on toggles, or nothing. And how many times do we play these pedals and think, "that would be a great feature on a footswitch"? How many overdrives could basically be two drives in one, but they give you only one footswitch? Just about all of them.
Players want footswitches, not knobs and toggles. We set tone controls and leave them (maybe switchable tone modules would be better than a tone knob?). Drives and fuzz pedals rarely have bias controls. Personally, I would rather have a bias knob than a tone control, because the tone control is probably just a Big Muff tone circuit slapped in there, or a simple treble cut.
Boring.
#93
Open Discussion / Absence, update and reflective...
Last post by LaceSensor - September 11, 2025, 08:40:11 PM
Howdy friends

I wanted to check in here as I embark on something new, which has given me pause to reflect on the past and this amazing hobby of building effects pedals and the great community here.

Last November I lost my job. It was the darkest period of my life. I work in biotech, and suffered severe burnout, stress, anxiety and ended up being let go. Subsequently the job market has been severely impacted by world events, and I am still out of a day job to this day. I would be lying if I said I didn't spiral to dark places, but what pulled me out in part was the opportunity to do some things that I should have done ages ago. The culmination of this will be me launching my own line of pedals next week – under the re-imagined "Gigahearts FX" brand which some people will remember from years gone by. I always dreamed of having a pedal company, ever since I realised I was too old and not talented enough to make a living in a band as a musician and it feels like now or never (!)

I have been leaning again on the DIY community for inspiration, learning and skills. I have learned PCB CAD design from the ground up. I have been breadboarding and modding and building, even using vero again for some prototyping. I learned illustrator having relied on MS paint of all things for many years, allowing me to get enclosures professionally UV printed. For the first designs I'm doing good old 3PDTs, but I have got relay bypass schemes on my bench and breadboard, and have been programming Arduinos to make Attiny85 micro controllers. Wild... I've had the time to dedicate to learning for the first time in many years, and its been super fun, and its amazing just how rich the community is with shared knowledge. The generosity of folks is ever impressive. If like me you thought some of this was beyond you, give it a try. YouTube is amazing!

So why I am writing this? Honestly, I am trying not to be a schill. Hopefully people e-know me enough to trust that. Regardless, everyone here can do everything I have done, and more, and better. I don't think you need to buy pedals from me (!) but of course feel free if you really like something I am doing. However, it would be amazing if you wanted to follow me on Instagram and take a look at what I am doing, like it, share it perhaps? I would like to grow my audience and make a proper attempt at this. Hey, if nothing else I am being honest about needing help. Feedback would also be really helpful to me now, coming from a point of, honestly, the lowest self confidence base I have ever had in life.

Also, I am writing this to say thankyou. While I haven't been active in the community recently (I got married and had a kid a couple years ago, that with a destructive job really gives you so little time for "fun"), and as per usual I have leached more than I can ever pay back, I wanted to address how much I value the people here and the skills I have been able to pick up and build upon. Thankyou also for the inspiration. I still browse the forums and see what people are making and designing frequently.

Anyway. Cheers to you all. I hope to give back as much as I can.

The new designs are things I like, inspired by classic circuits. While there is nothing truly new here, I have approached this from the aspect of continuous progression, performance lead feature improvements, and refinements that I think people will enjoy.

Cheers

Ian / LaceSensor / Gigahearts

www.gigaheartsfx.com launches Tuesday 16th September 2025 4pm GMT / 8am PST / 1pm EDT
@gigahearts_fx
#94
VFE Projects / Re: Distortion 3 - sub for 1n3...
Last post by jessenator - September 11, 2025, 04:42:09 PM
Looked at the Dist 3 schematic, and if you've got the means I'd breadboard it :) test out what you'd like.

I've tried red LEDs in a tube screamer (landgraff), OD-1 (YATS' father), and a honey bee, but those are soft clipping scenarios. Scratching my head where I've done it in hard clipping configs. Maybe I tried it in a D+/250? Definitely didn't like them in a klone. Kind of strange that I've never tried them in a Rat!
#95
VFE Projects / Re: Distortion 3 - sub for 1n3...
Last post by greysun - September 11, 2025, 04:07:00 PM
Thanks [mention]jessenator [/mention] and [mention]mauman [/mention] - that's very helpful!

What about LEDs? I know I like those a lot in the RAT... think they'd play nice?
#96
VFE Projects / Re: Distortion 3 - sub for 1n3...
Last post by mauman - September 11, 2025, 03:58:56 PM
The D9V I/V curve is very close to the 1N34A, and it's Ge as well.  BAT41 has a slightly higher Vf as the current rises, and it's the closest Si diode as jessenator says.  1N5817 has a significantly lower Vf than any other diode I've measured except Russian D310 and D311, it's about half the Vf of a 1N34A.  So in order of similarity to 1N34A, I'd try D9V, then BAT41.
#97
General Questions / Re: Setback no tails question
Last post by mauman - September 11, 2025, 03:49:51 PM
Doesn't matter, since you'll be installing a non-polarized cap.  Strap one out, and replace the other one with your 470nF.
#98
VFE Projects / Re: Distortion 3 - sub for 1n3...
Last post by jessenator - September 11, 2025, 03:22:58 PM
BAT4x, and 41 notably, have been called out in past build docs as a sub for the 1N34A. Diode sniffing is a pastime we've all taken part in :) but I'll share my own preferences:

On those you've got, the BAT41 is a great choice for standard replacement, but if you want the silicon vs germanium mojo, while I'm not familiar with the specs of the D9V, but the D9E and D9D are great 1N34A subs, IME, and I could be wrong, but it seems the "HARD" pot just goes between Si and Ge, and maybe 1N34A is just "go-to" part. I doubt most common Ge diodes would play rough. If you're interested, PedalPCB forum member thomasbe86 made this very cool interactive chart showing forward voltages at different currents.
#99
VFE Projects / Distortion 3 - sub for 1n34a?
Last post by greysun - September 11, 2025, 02:22:56 PM
Hi folks!

Wondering if there's a sub for the 1n34a that I could use in the distortion 3 - not because they're not working, but just ... because! I think it's fun and novel to experiment with different parts in the hope of new sounds (kinda like swapping tubes in an amp for a different sound/feel).

I have a bunch of leftover diodes from a 8-rotary RAT I made a couple years back, so didn't know if one or more would work - what I don't know is whether they will play nice with the 914s, as this circuit tends to mix them (so far as I can tell) with the "soft" pot.

would love some insight; things you've tried, or things you've experience swapping clipping diodes (my in-stock list is below). :) Thank you in advance, as always!

My varied diodes:

1n5817
BAT41
D9V

I also have some 2n7000, 2n5457, BC108 and BC109 I could always throw in there if I can figure out how to connect 3 leads to 2 sockets. ;-) hehe.
#100
General Questions / Re: Setback no tails question
Last post by Robusto - September 10, 2025, 11:40:27 PM
Quote from: mauman on September 08, 2025, 04:17:51 AMFrom the Setback build doc:
QuoteIf you don't want the Tails switch it's easy to defeat. Simply solder a jumper between the TLS1 pads on the PCB. Leave the TLS2 and LED2 pads empty. You can also omit R16 and R17 in this case.
You'll still want to block DC from the NE570 pin 11, but instead of equipping both C9 and C10, you can strap one of them, and replace the other with a 470nF non-polarized cap. That's assuming you omit both R16 and R17. 

Cool, so the electrolytics  are pointed in different directions. Should I keep the + forward or - forward cap?