Recent posts

#71

Open Discussion / Re: it tastes like ...burning

Last post by culturejam - August 31, 2024, 07:21:22 PM

Lot of good work you're doing here. 

I'm working my laser today, actually. Making some pedal faceplates.

#72

General Questions / Re: stencil tack recommendatio...

Last post by jessenator - August 31, 2024, 06:21:31 PM

I cut frisket film cut with an exacto knife to make stencils. Low tack made for use on paper.

Oh nice. I can't believe I never ran into that in design school...

In the interim I bought some paper-back vinyl transfer tape, but this could be interesting to try. Nice that it's in sheets, so I could try cutting it first then applying it. Wouldn't need to worry about the laser having to cut through the tape adhesive (current obstacle) without hurting the finish below.

#73

General Questions / Re: stencil tack recommendatio...

Last post by davent - August 31, 2024, 05:39:48 PM

I cut frisket film cut with an exacto knife to make stencils. Low tack made for use on paper. To prevent edge bleed undef the stencil i usually sprayed a clearcoat which would bleed first and seal the edges then spray the stencil color.

Other times i'd apply the stencil and first spray a coat of the same paint the stencil is apllied to then spray the stencil color. Seals the stencil edges. I was using mostly Golden Artists Acrylics through an airbrush.

#74

Open Discussion / Re: it tastes like ...burning

Last post by jessenator - August 31, 2024, 01:14:14 AM

Well etching is not going as planned. I feel like press n peel can't be beat (at my budget anyway) for PCBs, but now I know.

Just shorts everywhere. I can't do the cross hatching with the "image" mode in lightburn, only can do a second pass, which might not do anything at all. Still, might work for enclosure etching, art, etc where it doesn't matter of there are hairline connections.

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#75

Open Discussion / Re: it tastes like ...burning

Last post by jessenator - August 29, 2024, 11:19:42 PM

Reviving this thing.

After a botched attempt at another enclosure last year, I kinda ignored the existence of the laser engraver. It's clear, as pickdropper mentioned, that a hobby laser is basically for wood and maybe acrylic or glass etching. So I have no illusions anymore as to its limitations. Yeah, they now have a 10W and maybe a 20W module, but I'm not particularly interested. If for some reason I go harder I'll save up for fiber.

I made some strides with using masking tape, but it was quite a strange learning process. I think I've found something that might work out alright, but it'll need more testing before I commit to a final build.




mssed up because I masked over something I already cut.

Yeah, it needs some fine tuning. I also need to get my guides set up so I can just set it and forget it as far as positioning is concerned. I have no illusions that it'll be 100% every time, but I'm looking forward to the experience.

Finally have the foundation for a solid etch, I think. I know Press-n-Peel is the gold standard, no argument there. Just going with what I have on-hand and to further justify the existence of the engraver.



Had to really clean out the grooves, since it was basically just covered in burned paint and primer, but I think (hope) it will work out. It took progressive washing since the previous attempt just fell apart in the presence of alcohol: dishsoap, baking soda, Barkeeper's Friend (very light). Also hoping ferric chloride doesn't muck with the paint...

#76

How Do I? Beginner's Paradise. / Re: the why of wah

Last post by jessenator - August 29, 2024, 05:06:36 PM

I got fat feet, so I can't do mini 🤣

I'm leaning towards buying used and repurposing the shell, thinking about it more. I'm probably going to etch a single sided board version from the 2016 Weener schematic so I can use my weird, large, mojo caps that have been with me since I salvaged an old Wurlitzer organ.

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I did some more searching and PMd a few people about inductors, and it sounds like it's almost like a germanium type situation... some people hear a massive difference, some don't, and it's more the overall components and values that make the difference. I think personally I'm going with whatever isn't cheap MiC crap and call it until I become a wah snob

#77

How Do I? Beginner's Paradise. / Re: the why of wah

Last post by djaaz - August 29, 2024, 01:44:41 PM

K, I've never been a wah guy. Only had a considerable amount of time with whatever was programmed onto the POD via the simulated foot controller thingy, and it was awful. I know. Digital effect, but still, just wasn't ever my bag, but I'm thinking about it now.

Couple questions about it all.

1a- The potentiometer
So ICAR just means it's adjusted to compensate for not being able to mechanically (by extension, electronically) move through the total wiper range? Places like amplified parts have wah-centric pots from 100-200k, with 100k being log taper, the others being linear. A bit confused here.

1b- continued
If I've never been a wah guy, am I really going to "notice" the pot's behavior not being "the right way" if I somehow get the "wrong one?"

1c- continued
If I want to avoid the MiC product out there, what's a decent one that isn't going to cost upwards of half the cost of a decent wah shell kit? (I've seen >$20 ones and struggle to understand)

2- to avoid contention (based on what I've seen elsewhere on the web), I don't want to start a "what's better" war, but what's the general character differences between Fasel and non-F style inductors?

3- Weener or neener?

Hi Chris, i was hoping someone would enlighten us both. I can tell you abou
My first wah is a vox v847 that i bought in the 90's based on ones opinion that it was the "real" wah. I added a dunlop crybaby and then way later built a few project including madbean wah project (The one madbean project i did not like much).

I had to make a few fix to the vox to add a 9v dc input that mine did not have and a led bc you want to know when this thing is on. I changed the pot bc it was scratchy, i ordered the part in the "wah part" section of musikding without giving it any thoughts and did not notice anything different.
https://www.musikding.de/Blacktop-Deluxe-100k-ICAR_1

On the weener wah, the madbean project, i used a eye rock inductor supposedly wounded by hand during a full moon night under a rain of unicorn tears. Did not blow my mind but i would fault the builder first and i never cared enough to revisit it.

At the end of the day i prefer my vox wah to the dunlop if played side by side, i can't tell them apart as soon as volume, focus on playing or other musician are involved.
Most of the time i have to take it out of its cute mustard bag to plug it, so most of the time i don't bc i'm lazy. I was even thinking of buying this micro Mooer wah bc at least it can stay on a pedalboard that is not the size of Canada.

I would go for a used crybaby, there's ton of them. They're cheap, the shell will outlive you and you'll have something to experiment and destroy.

#78

General Questions / Re: Mini Rotary Switch 2P4T ea...

Last post by BMS1971 - August 29, 2024, 08:03:05 AM

For Eagle, this is already in the mbp 2017 library:

https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=25194.0

thanks a lot

#79

Global Annoucements / Re: Forum issues

Last post by madbean - August 27, 2024, 11:36:27 PM

I have found a temporary workaround that works for me.

After clearing any cookies, go to https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php? with the "?" at the end of the normal url to login and anytime you are going back to the main forum page.  This seems to bypass the cache and make the request to the forum itself.

Hope this helps!

-Jesse

Cool, I will give this a try. On a related note, after 7 days I got no response from my provider on my support request. Very disappointing.

#80

General Questions / Re: Mini Rotary Switch 2P4T ea...

Last post by madbean - August 27, 2024, 11:32:25 PM

For Eagle, this is already in the mbp 2017 library:

https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=25194.0