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#71
Open Discussion / Re: Happy New Year 2026, Pork ...
Last post by fair.child - January 27, 2026, 09:29:23 PMI found this one and started working on it
https://www.demedasheffects.com/blog/surface-detail-diy-analog-chorus
the Druid LFO is more PWM than sinewave LFO. I'm researching if I can make LFO sinewave that I can use rate control between 0.5Hz to 8Hz. By the way, this is the core of TSC.
There are two design considerations;
1. using MN3007 and MN3101 with +15V/-15V charge pump
2. using MN3207 and MN3102 with +9V
https://www.demedasheffects.com/blog/surface-detail-diy-analog-chorus
the Druid LFO is more PWM than sinewave LFO. I'm researching if I can make LFO sinewave that I can use rate control between 0.5Hz to 8Hz. By the way, this is the core of TSC.
There are two design considerations;
1. using MN3007 and MN3101 with +15V/-15V charge pump
2. using MN3207 and MN3102 with +9V
#72
Open Discussion / Re: The secret M117 flanger
Last post by lars - January 26, 2026, 09:57:26 PMHere is an update on the trimmer settings inside. One disappointing thing I found out about this version is that it couldn't do those great theremin-style sounds with the Regen knob maxed out. An awesome example of what I'm talking about is at the beginning of Van Halen's, Outta Love Again. In my opinion, if an M117 can't do those sounds, then the trimmers inside aren't set up correctly. By adjusting the 20K trimmer on the right a little bit more counter-clockwise, I was able to get those great oscillation sounds when the Regen knob is maxed. I also adjusted the clock speed to a faster setting to keep it from getting that awful deep/seasick rubber-band sound that so many flangers are set up to do.
Here's the pic of the trimmers:
It definitely sounds even better after the adjustments. Now the chorus has more of that "Andy Summers" sparkle.
Here's the pic of the trimmers:
It definitely sounds even better after the adjustments. Now the chorus has more of that "Andy Summers" sparkle.
#73
Open Discussion / Re: The most unobtanium pedal ...
Last post by jessenator - January 26, 2026, 04:13:24 PMYou probably looked, but I didn't see anything outside of the 12-16mm even on aliexpress...
I mean, Hammond has been amenable to custom work. I'm sure a place like Daier or similar might do it. My non-engineer brain thinks taking a bog standard red (not water clear) 5-8mm LED and forming it in a heated metal mold—that faceted shape, only shallower than what we see on amps and such.
I mean, Hammond has been amenable to custom work. I'm sure a place like Daier or similar might do it. My non-engineer brain thinks taking a bog standard red (not water clear) 5-8mm LED and forming it in a heated metal mold—that faceted shape, only shallower than what we see on amps and such.
#74
Open Discussion / Re: The most unobtanium pedal ...
Last post by lars - January 26, 2026, 03:21:24 PMNow that I looked at the pictures more, that oddball indicator on the bottom picture is most definitely a replacement part, which it's not hard to find 1/4" led indicators that look very similar. It's probably just an older one with a slightly different bezel than these here:
1/4" LED indicators
The original Morley indicators are always the faceted jewel type with a knurled bezel.
1/4" LED indicators
The original Morley indicators are always the faceted jewel type with a knurled bezel.
#75
Open Discussion / Re: The most unobtanium pedal ...
Last post by lars - January 26, 2026, 01:43:47 PMNo, that's no trick of the light. Those are two different jewels. It's possible Morley sourced some different jewels back then. More likely though is that the odd-looking one in the bottom picture was an early replacement part someone was able to source from the nether. The top picture looks like the correct part I've always seen on old Morley pedals, and that's the one that seems to have no equal. So at least for a time way back in the day, it seems there were good options to get sub-miniature light jewels. Both look great, so I wouldn't care finding either one nowadays.
It just surprises me that no manufacturer has bothered to make these again. Clearly companies like Spaceman, and all the companies that have copied their look since, like the effect of the "Fender-style" amp jewel. It does look way better than just a raw LED or most of the bezel options out there today. Using a standard-size amp jewel is just too cumbersome on a pedal. It always looks out of proportion unless the pedal is a monster. Those original Morley jewels were the perfect size. And after having owned two of those pedals, I can say it's by far the best-looking indicator light ever on a pedal.
It just surprises me that no manufacturer has bothered to make these again. Clearly companies like Spaceman, and all the companies that have copied their look since, like the effect of the "Fender-style" amp jewel. It does look way better than just a raw LED or most of the bezel options out there today. Using a standard-size amp jewel is just too cumbersome on a pedal. It always looks out of proportion unless the pedal is a monster. Those original Morley jewels were the perfect size. And after having owned two of those pedals, I can say it's by far the best-looking indicator light ever on a pedal.
#76
Open Discussion / Re: The most unobtanium pedal ...
Last post by jessenator - January 26, 2026, 07:09:48 AMMaybe a trick of the light, but are these two different parts?
You cannot view this attachment.
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I'm not terribly familiar, but it does seem odd to go to all that trouble for a recreation and not make at least a partial effort for the light jewel. I mean, even one of these would be "effort" https://www.taydaelectronics.com/5mm-led-red-plastiic.html and Amplified parts has an even better looking one.
Might just be there hasn't been demand. Most amp places have the standard bulbous bouffant jewels. Something about the cut jewel pattern in red though. Maybe cause it looks like a ruby? Maybe cause it looks like classic pizza hut glasses.
Definitely has the look of something from the '60s. Maybe they were using whatever they had at the time and it just got replaced o
In ither industries at large with a different part over time.
You cannot view this attachment.
You cannot view this attachment.
I'm not terribly familiar, but it does seem odd to go to all that trouble for a recreation and not make at least a partial effort for the light jewel. I mean, even one of these would be "effort" https://www.taydaelectronics.com/5mm-led-red-plastiic.html and Amplified parts has an even better looking one.
Might just be there hasn't been demand. Most amp places have the standard bulbous bouffant jewels. Something about the cut jewel pattern in red though. Maybe cause it looks like a ruby? Maybe cause it looks like classic pizza hut glasses.
Definitely has the look of something from the '60s. Maybe they were using whatever they had at the time and it just got replaced o
In ither industries at large with a different part over time.
#77
Build Reports / Re: MicroSynth Fuzz
Last post by LaceSensor - January 25, 2026, 11:21:30 AMQuote from: Jobu on January 25, 2026, 02:25:49 AMI finally got mine boxed up, I've never played a real Microsynth before and I have to say I am a big fan of this flavor of octave fuzz! Thanks again for the board!
Nice! Good job getting it done
#78
Build Reports / Re: MicroSynth Fuzz
Last post by Jobu - January 25, 2026, 02:25:49 AMI finally got mine boxed up, I've never played a real Microsynth before and I have to say I am a big fan of this flavor of octave fuzz! Thanks again for the board!
#79
General Questions / Re: Boss electronic switching....
Last post by NorthCoast - January 24, 2026, 07:57:30 PMLet us know what you come up with, I'm really curious about solid-state switching options.
#80
Build Reports / Re: DS-1 modded and rehoused…
Last post by greysun - January 24, 2026, 02:55:23 PMWorth noting: you could easily take the buffers out if you've already gone this far into modding the pedal, but I liked where it landed and didn't wanna push my luck. If you really don't want them even with the effect on...
www.electrosmash.com/boss-ds1-analysis breaks down where the buffers start and stop. Remove those parts and set your in and out wires accordingly.
www.electrosmash.com/boss-ds1-analysis breaks down where the buffers start and stop. Remove those parts and set your in and out wires accordingly.