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#31
Open Discussion / Re: The secret M117 flanger
Last post by lars - June 12, 2026, 06:47:06 PMChanging R22 and R25 to 6K2 is a great mod! I definitely could hear more of that top end wash, where the high frequencies are more present than before. This mod should just be the standard value for the Collosalus in those positions.
For the mixing resistors, I went a little more conservative with a 130K/75K combo. I didn't want to increase the volume too much, but I definitely wanted some more dry signal. I noticed my build was always a little too "seasick" sounding, so this combo of mixing resistors added in 5% more dry signal.
Now things are sounding great! Thanks for the suggestions.
For the mixing resistors, I went a little more conservative with a 130K/75K combo. I didn't want to increase the volume too much, but I definitely wanted some more dry signal. I noticed my build was always a little too "seasick" sounding, so this combo of mixing resistors added in 5% more dry signal.
Now things are sounding great! Thanks for the suggestions.
#32
Open Discussion / Re: I got a review by Premier ...
Last post by culturejam - June 12, 2026, 05:18:52 AMWell done!
#33
Open Discussion / Re: The secret M117 flanger
Last post by Scruffie - June 11, 2026, 09:47:08 PMQuote from: lars on June 11, 2026, 06:15:08 PMI don't see the 2022 schematic in the archive file, but the (connected to the inverting input of the output op-amp) 150k becomes 100k, the 82k becomes 56k.Quote from: scruffieAlso making the mixing resistors 100k/56k removes the volume drop in a true bypass set up.Just to double check: the mixing resistors are R7/R8 on the 2022 schematic? So I would make R7 100K and R8 56K, respectively? I don't really notice a volume drop, but I do tend to like flanger to come in just a hair louder than bypass, so this could really take it to that next level.
#34
Open Discussion / Re: The secret M117 flanger
Last post by lars - June 11, 2026, 06:15:08 PMQuote from: scruffieAlso making the mixing resistors 100k/56k removes the volume drop in a true bypass set up.Just to double check: the mixing resistors are R7/R8 on the 2022 schematic? So I would make R7 100K and R8 56K, respectively? I don't really notice a volume drop, but I do tend to like flanger to come in just a hair louder than bypass, so this could really take it to that next level.
#35
Build Reports / Re: Grawlix — A Green Ringer w...
Last post by jimilee - June 11, 2026, 05:34:16 PMQuote from: Aleph Null on June 11, 2026, 02:48:24 PMWhat ever key you're in, slide up about 3 frets and bend a lot.Quote from: gordo on June 10, 2026, 11:02:05 PMTHAT's the tune you pick to demo it???
I don't know any blues licks...
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#36
Build Reports / Re: Grawlix — A Green Ringer w...
Last post by Aleph Null - June 11, 2026, 02:48:24 PMQuote from: gordo on June 10, 2026, 11:02:05 PMTHAT's the tune you pick to demo it???
I don't know any blues licks...
#37
Build Reports / Re: Grawlix — A Green Ringer w...
Last post by gordo - June 10, 2026, 11:02:05 PMTHAT's the tune you pick to demo it??? 
#38
Build Reports / Re: Grawlix — A Green Ringer w...
Last post by jessenator - June 09, 2026, 11:13:10 PMFan-freakin-tastic, my dude.
#39
Build Reports / Grawlix — A Green Ringer with ...
Last post by Aleph Null - June 09, 2026, 08:20:00 PMI've been exporing analog octave circuits lately and nothing sounds quite like the Green Ringer to my ears, but it generally needs help to sound its best. Grawlix is a Green Ringer with some quality-of-life features added.
I repurposed an old enclosure as the original occupant had been superseded by a newer design.
The first half of the circuit is the classic Green Ringer topology with modernized and streamlined values. The bias network is a little eccentric, but it gets the necessary voltage at the base of Q2 to maximize the headroom and octave effect. Instead of a fixed gain, Q1 can now be adjusted. This lets you set the level that hits the rectifier section for the most prominent octave. It can also be cranked up to some serious fuzz. The Texture control pans between metallic fuzz and full octave up. The further clockwise, the more prominent the octave will be. This also makes diode matching less critical, as the Texture control can be adjusted until the octave pops. Q3 buffers the output—I tried to ditch this, but the rectifier is very picky about what comes after it!
The octave section is followed by clipping diodes. These have a similar effect to placing an overdirve after a Green Ringer; they act as a crude form of compression to keep down the crazy transients the octave can produce. With the Gain control low, they don't do anything. After about half way, they start to color the signal.
Tone is a tilt EQ with a mid bump around 800Hz. Clockwise, it cuts the thump of strong transients that can be created with the Gain set low. Counterclockwise, it cuts the fizz and treble without getting too dark. In the middle, it gives you a throaty midrange, similar to running a Tube Screamer after your octave.
Last is a make-up gain stage to ensure a good amount of boost is available at all times.
This circuit definitely does the Green Ringer thing, but I think it's also a reasonable substitute for a Moonrock or a Superfuzz. It can fuzz, but it's more open and dynamic than most octave fuzzes.
Here's a demo:
As always, I have extra PCBs. If you're interested, DM me!
I repurposed an old enclosure as the original occupant had been superseded by a newer design.
The first half of the circuit is the classic Green Ringer topology with modernized and streamlined values. The bias network is a little eccentric, but it gets the necessary voltage at the base of Q2 to maximize the headroom and octave effect. Instead of a fixed gain, Q1 can now be adjusted. This lets you set the level that hits the rectifier section for the most prominent octave. It can also be cranked up to some serious fuzz. The Texture control pans between metallic fuzz and full octave up. The further clockwise, the more prominent the octave will be. This also makes diode matching less critical, as the Texture control can be adjusted until the octave pops. Q3 buffers the output—I tried to ditch this, but the rectifier is very picky about what comes after it!
The octave section is followed by clipping diodes. These have a similar effect to placing an overdirve after a Green Ringer; they act as a crude form of compression to keep down the crazy transients the octave can produce. With the Gain control low, they don't do anything. After about half way, they start to color the signal.
Tone is a tilt EQ with a mid bump around 800Hz. Clockwise, it cuts the thump of strong transients that can be created with the Gain set low. Counterclockwise, it cuts the fizz and treble without getting too dark. In the middle, it gives you a throaty midrange, similar to running a Tube Screamer after your octave.
Last is a make-up gain stage to ensure a good amount of boost is available at all times.
This circuit definitely does the Green Ringer thing, but I think it's also a reasonable substitute for a Moonrock or a Superfuzz. It can fuzz, but it's more open and dynamic than most octave fuzzes.
Here's a demo:
As always, I have extra PCBs. If you're interested, DM me!
#40
Open Discussion / Re: The secret M117 flanger
Last post by Scruffie - June 07, 2026, 10:55:36 AMQuote from: lars on June 06, 2026, 09:59:24 PMLet us know how it works out!Quote from: scruffiePlus, if you're really missing said high content, you can make R22 & R25 6k2 on the madbean collosalus and it should more than compensate for the difference.Thanks for the suggestion! I'll have to try that out on my Collosalus (2022 version) build. I'm still not quite happy with the performance with it. I've noticed that Q2-Q5 have a huge effect on the sound, so I've been swapping several different transistors types in those positions. Right now it sounds pretty good, and has the most eclectic combo of transistors in those positions.
Yeah, all the transistors are doing different jobs so you will get a better sweep width with transistors best suited, don't need to go crazy, just 2N3904/2N5088 should be fine.
Also making the mixing resistors 100k/56k removes the volume drop in a true bypass set up.