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#31
VFE Projects / Springboard foot switch issues...
Last post by greysun - October 08, 2026, 08:12:50 PMHi all!
Not really sure what's going on, but I cannot get my springboard to function - when I put my multimeter to the footswitch, I'm only getting 2v throughout the entire thing after the 5817. I already replaced the diode, used a 2nd VFE chip I had from another project, replaced the tq2-5lv, swapped another switch in, and it just turns on the LED and nothing else. Certainly not getting strong readings at the 5v regulator even though it is heating up.
I've traced all my leads, ensured the parts are all correct, triple checked that there not a ground short somewhere... It's gotta be a bad part in there somewhere, I just don't where or how to find it.
But honestly, I don't love these footswitch systems - there's a lag on my distortion 3's that's JUST enough for me to notice and trip me up, and it goes haywire if I accidentally trigger tap it (easier to do on the momentary switch than a standard 3pdt).
If I wanted to just make this a normal 3pdt footswitch, could I simply just make a daughter board with some power filtering and wire it up normal? I'm not sure how the whole split rail thing works with this board, so hopefully someone can tell me what to do here...
(also, could by my leaf sockets are just weak, but they are not holding this brick in very well - are some stronger than others, or is this thing just a beast to cram into em?).
Not really sure what's going on, but I cannot get my springboard to function - when I put my multimeter to the footswitch, I'm only getting 2v throughout the entire thing after the 5817. I already replaced the diode, used a 2nd VFE chip I had from another project, replaced the tq2-5lv, swapped another switch in, and it just turns on the LED and nothing else. Certainly not getting strong readings at the 5v regulator even though it is heating up.
I've traced all my leads, ensured the parts are all correct, triple checked that there not a ground short somewhere... It's gotta be a bad part in there somewhere, I just don't where or how to find it.
But honestly, I don't love these footswitch systems - there's a lag on my distortion 3's that's JUST enough for me to notice and trip me up, and it goes haywire if I accidentally trigger tap it (easier to do on the momentary switch than a standard 3pdt).
If I wanted to just make this a normal 3pdt footswitch, could I simply just make a daughter board with some power filtering and wire it up normal? I'm not sure how the whole split rail thing works with this board, so hopefully someone can tell me what to do here...
(also, could by my leaf sockets are just weak, but they are not holding this brick in very well - are some stronger than others, or is this thing just a beast to cram into em?).
#32
Build Reports / Re: Original Gaspedals Dumbbel...
Last post by jessenator - October 06, 2026, 12:05:05 AMCool. Thanks for that!
#33
Build Reports / Re: Original Gaspedals Dumbbel...
Last post by lars - October 05, 2026, 10:22:36 PMJust comparing the schematics, it looks like the original one knob version would have slightly more distortion when the boost switch is kicked in because the op amp gain resistor is set at 510K. The max total gain resistance is 400K on the newer 3 knob.
The biggest difference would be the op amp itself. The original one knob Dumbbell used the 1458, which is basically just a dual 741. The three knob version uses a HiFi NE5532.
I think for overdriven guitar tones, the NE5532 is not exactly in it's wheelhouse. The 741 is used in awesome-sounding classic overdrives like the grey DOD250 and original MXR Distortion+. So in this application, I think the 1458 is the superior op amp, but to each his own.
The biggest difference would be the op amp itself. The original one knob Dumbbell used the 1458, which is basically just a dual 741. The three knob version uses a HiFi NE5532.
I think for overdriven guitar tones, the NE5532 is not exactly in it's wheelhouse. The 741 is used in awesome-sounding classic overdrives like the grey DOD250 and original MXR Distortion+. So in this application, I think the 1458 is the superior op amp, but to each his own.
#34
Build Reports / Re: Original Gaspedals Dumbbel...
Last post by jessenator - October 05, 2026, 04:57:15 AMI know I've already spammed this thread, but I'm curious how the original compares component wise to the two knob version. Robert did a trace of that version, called the Counterweight. Here's the schematic of that one. I'm planning on working up drawing up a schematic of the vero layout of I've got time, but wondered if you had thoughts.
#35
Build Reports / Re: Electric Mistress Pedal Fl...
Last post by JasonWickersham - October 04, 2026, 11:30:06 PMThis is pretty dang cool.
Well done!
Well done!
#36
Build Reports / Re: Electric Mistress Pedal Fl...
Last post by NorthCoast - October 03, 2026, 07:12:00 PMVery nice. There's some ninja-level stuff there.
#37
Build Reports / Re: Electric Mistress Pedal Fl...
Last post by jessenator - October 03, 2026, 12:03:03 AMThat's super slick in that wah/vol enclosure. Nicely done.
#38
Build Reports / Re: Electric Mistress Pedal Fl...
Last post by jwin615 - October 02, 2026, 11:27:47 PMNice! 
#39
Build Reports / Electric Mistress Pedal Flange...
Last post by lars - October 02, 2026, 07:37:49 PMThis is an Electric Mistress that I housed in a Dunlop High Gain volume pedal, so that I can have foot control of the range, especially in filter matrix mode. It's a very unique experience to play while being able to control the flange sweep. It's like I have my thumb, err, foot on the tape reel.
I decided to use a Reticon RD5106, so it was kind of a bear to mod, but well worth the effort.
The bias was difficult to dial in with a 100K pot, so I created a custom bias pot out of a 20K pot with two 39K resistors on each end. This gave me a much smaller sweep to really dial it in.
As everybody knows, the original Electric Mistress has a volume drop when engaged. The best approach I've found to address this is to take advantage of the first op amp stage which is just sitting there amplifying nothing. I stole a page from the 1999 Deluxe Electric Mistress reissue which adds two resistors and a 1uf cap to ground in order to actually boost the clean signal. I ended up having to change the 10K value all the way down to 2.4K to really get rid of any volume drop. This really helps to keep the noise level down compared to tacking a boost circuit to the end, which amplifies everything, including the BBD noise.
All in all, a very cool effect that can do the "Andy Summers" shimmer chorus sound very well. And it's great that it's a flanger in disguise!
I decided to use a Reticon RD5106, so it was kind of a bear to mod, but well worth the effort.
The bias was difficult to dial in with a 100K pot, so I created a custom bias pot out of a 20K pot with two 39K resistors on each end. This gave me a much smaller sweep to really dial it in.
As everybody knows, the original Electric Mistress has a volume drop when engaged. The best approach I've found to address this is to take advantage of the first op amp stage which is just sitting there amplifying nothing. I stole a page from the 1999 Deluxe Electric Mistress reissue which adds two resistors and a 1uf cap to ground in order to actually boost the clean signal. I ended up having to change the 10K value all the way down to 2.4K to really get rid of any volume drop. This really helps to keep the noise level down compared to tacking a boost circuit to the end, which amplifies everything, including the BBD noise.
All in all, a very cool effect that can do the "Andy Summers" shimmer chorus sound very well. And it's great that it's a flanger in disguise!
#40
VFE Projects / Re: Springboard parts question
Last post by NorthCoast - October 02, 2026, 05:46:44 PMQuote from: greysun on October 02, 2026, 12:51:42 PM- The parts list mentions a 150uf cap, but there's a small disclaimer in the BOM notes that 47u (which I have a decent amount of) would be fine. I just want to verify this is true before I scour mouser. I have a ton of 100u, as well.
That capacitor is there to smooth out and stabilize the +5v power connection between the voltage regulator and the brick. The value is not crucial, 47u, 100u, or 150u would all work fine. I'm guessing that the suggestion of 47u is due to the physical size of the component and the available space on the board.
Quote from: greysun on October 02, 2026, 12:51:42 PM- (this is the really dumb question, cause it feels very obvious, but I have to ask) I have 18v Zeners, but it looks like this VFE project asks for 16v - being less familiar with Zeners than I like to admit, I assume I can't sub an 18v here?
Yeah, I didn't look closely, but the build doc says 'for over-voltage protection', so I'd stick with 16v. There's probably something else in the circuit that can't handle more than 16v.