Quote from: madbean on February 13, 2026, 03:32:09 AMQuote from: wizestwizard on February 12, 2026, 11:50:33 PMHey guys, recently had a request from someone to add a rate LED to a Polytrog I build for them. I assume it will follow the "rate" pot if I put it in parallel with the LDR LEDs? If I do this, should I put it after all of the vactrol LEDs and then lower R42 to ~250R? This is a complex circuit compared to what I normally mod, so want to make sure I cover my butt before I start poking around in it!
If I wanted it to pulse with the "mod rate" pot, where would be the best place to tap into that voltage? Thanks!
For the Rate pot you would put the LED in series with VC1-3_L, nt in parallel. Lowering R42 might compensate or prove unnecessary. For the Mod_Rate I'd try a 10k CLR and LED connected to pin7 of IC9_B first. Do it on a breadboard where you can easily disconnect the LED and see if it impacts performance.
These are just educated guesses.
Quote from: madbean on January 23, 2026, 02:03:06 AMI only just saw this thread. I'm not sure how a CE-2 would sound with a purely sine wave modulation. I think it might ened up sounding a little lop sided because the peaks and valleys would be much more drawn out.
Quote from: derevaun on February 16, 2026, 05:03:03 AMI didn't know I needed pedal name ideas, but now I've got 'em.Your next one needs to be called "Thanks, Geoff"
Quote from: rhaas on June 07, 2023, 06:43:35 PMOne breakthrough, though the mystery continues...
I didn't think I had any other single op-amps on hand but then I realized that I had a CA3130EZ. I popped it in and that solved the voltage readings on pins 1 and 5 of the IC! Pin 6 was still off (more on that later) but I figured I'd plug in and give it a shot.
The pedal basically works now. I built a Naughty Fish a few years ago so I'm familiar with what to expect from all the knobs and switches. I noticed a bit of extraneous interference-type noise which was probably just due to the open enclosure. However, there's a lot of scratchy/static noise when I turn the level knob. Maybe this is related to the fact that I'm seeing DC voltage (~4v depending on level knob setting) on pin 6 (output).
So two questions remain:
1. What's the likely source of the DC voltage on pin 6, and is there any chance this is related to the CA3130EZ substitution?
2. How in the world did I end up getting two OPA134s from Mouser that didn't work correctly? I've ordered parts from them for years without encountering this kind of problem. I can't imagine that these are fakes (see pictures).
Thanks again, everyone!
Quote from: rhaas on June 05, 2023, 12:56:55 AMThanks, all! I inspected the board and couldn't find any solder bridges. However, I did see that I missed one of the socket pins for the TLE2074, so I soldered that (and reflowed anything that looked like it could use it). I'm now getting sound when the pedal is engaged, though the envelope effect is barely noticeable and the up/down switch doesn't seem to make a difference. Here are my new voltages with ICs installed. In summary the TLE2074 seems fine, the LM358 seems fine except for pin 2, and the OPA134 has a few anomalies (pins 1 and 5, in particular). Any ideas?
IC1 OPA134
1 8 (should be -8.4)
2 0 (should be 0)
3 0 (should be 0)
4 -8 (should be -8.4)
5 0 (should be -8.4)
6 0 (should be 0)
7 8.3 (should be 8.
8 8 (ignore)
IC2 LM358
1 7.1 (should be 7.57)
2 0.03 (should be 2.24)
3 4.1 (should be 4.35)
4 -7.9 (should be -8.44)
5 0.02 (should be 0.027)
6 0.03 (should be 0.03)
7 0.5 (should be 0.36)
8 8.3 (should be 8.
IC3 TLE2074
1 0 (should be 0)
2 0 (should be 0)
3 0 (should be 0)
4 8.3 (should be 8.77)
5 0 (should be 0)
6 0 (should be 0)
7 0 (should be 0)
8 0 (should be 0)
9 0 (should be 0)
10 0 (should be 0)
11 -7.9 (should be -8.4)
12 0 (should be 0)
13 0 (should be 0)
14 0 (should be 0)