- Welcome to madbeanpedals::forum.
Recent posts
#31
Open Discussion / Re: The most unobtanium pedal ...
Last post by jessenator - January 26, 2026, 04:13:24 PMYou probably looked, but I didn't see anything outside of the 12-16mm even on aliexpress...
I mean, Hammond has been amenable to custom work. I'm sure a place like Daier or similar might do it. My non-engineer brain thinks taking a bog standard red (not water clear) 5-8mm LED and forming it in a heated metal mold—that faceted shape, only shallower than what we see on amps and such.
I mean, Hammond has been amenable to custom work. I'm sure a place like Daier or similar might do it. My non-engineer brain thinks taking a bog standard red (not water clear) 5-8mm LED and forming it in a heated metal mold—that faceted shape, only shallower than what we see on amps and such.
#32
Open Discussion / Re: The most unobtanium pedal ...
Last post by lars - January 26, 2026, 03:21:24 PMNow that I looked at the pictures more, that oddball indicator on the bottom picture is most definitely a replacement part, which it's not hard to find 1/4" led indicators that look very similar. It's probably just an older one with a slightly different bezel than these here:
1/4" LED indicators
The original Morley indicators are always the faceted jewel type with a knurled bezel.
1/4" LED indicators
The original Morley indicators are always the faceted jewel type with a knurled bezel.
#33
Open Discussion / Re: The most unobtanium pedal ...
Last post by lars - January 26, 2026, 01:43:47 PMNo, that's no trick of the light. Those are two different jewels. It's possible Morley sourced some different jewels back then. More likely though is that the odd-looking one in the bottom picture was an early replacement part someone was able to source from the nether. The top picture looks like the correct part I've always seen on old Morley pedals, and that's the one that seems to have no equal. So at least for a time way back in the day, it seems there were good options to get sub-miniature light jewels. Both look great, so I wouldn't care finding either one nowadays.
It just surprises me that no manufacturer has bothered to make these again. Clearly companies like Spaceman, and all the companies that have copied their look since, like the effect of the "Fender-style" amp jewel. It does look way better than just a raw LED or most of the bezel options out there today. Using a standard-size amp jewel is just too cumbersome on a pedal. It always looks out of proportion unless the pedal is a monster. Those original Morley jewels were the perfect size. And after having owned two of those pedals, I can say it's by far the best-looking indicator light ever on a pedal.
It just surprises me that no manufacturer has bothered to make these again. Clearly companies like Spaceman, and all the companies that have copied their look since, like the effect of the "Fender-style" amp jewel. It does look way better than just a raw LED or most of the bezel options out there today. Using a standard-size amp jewel is just too cumbersome on a pedal. It always looks out of proportion unless the pedal is a monster. Those original Morley jewels were the perfect size. And after having owned two of those pedals, I can say it's by far the best-looking indicator light ever on a pedal.
#34
Open Discussion / Re: The most unobtanium pedal ...
Last post by jessenator - January 26, 2026, 07:09:48 AMMaybe a trick of the light, but are these two different parts?
You cannot view this attachment.
You cannot view this attachment.
I'm not terribly familiar, but it does seem odd to go to all that trouble for a recreation and not make at least a partial effort for the light jewel. I mean, even one of these would be "effort" https://www.taydaelectronics.com/5mm-led-red-plastiic.html and Amplified parts has an even better looking one.
Might just be there hasn't been demand. Most amp places have the standard bulbous bouffant jewels. Something about the cut jewel pattern in red though. Maybe cause it looks like a ruby? Maybe cause it looks like classic pizza hut glasses.
Definitely has the look of something from the '60s. Maybe they were using whatever they had at the time and it just got replaced o
In ither industries at large with a different part over time.
You cannot view this attachment.
You cannot view this attachment.
I'm not terribly familiar, but it does seem odd to go to all that trouble for a recreation and not make at least a partial effort for the light jewel. I mean, even one of these would be "effort" https://www.taydaelectronics.com/5mm-led-red-plastiic.html and Amplified parts has an even better looking one.
Might just be there hasn't been demand. Most amp places have the standard bulbous bouffant jewels. Something about the cut jewel pattern in red though. Maybe cause it looks like a ruby? Maybe cause it looks like classic pizza hut glasses.
Definitely has the look of something from the '60s. Maybe they were using whatever they had at the time and it just got replaced o
In ither industries at large with a different part over time.
#35
Build Reports / Re: MicroSynth Fuzz
Last post by LaceSensor - January 25, 2026, 11:21:30 AMQuote from: Jobu on January 25, 2026, 02:25:49 AMI finally got mine boxed up, I've never played a real Microsynth before and I have to say I am a big fan of this flavor of octave fuzz! Thanks again for the board!
Nice! Good job getting it done
#36
Build Reports / Re: MicroSynth Fuzz
Last post by Jobu - January 25, 2026, 02:25:49 AMI finally got mine boxed up, I've never played a real Microsynth before and I have to say I am a big fan of this flavor of octave fuzz! Thanks again for the board!
#37
General Questions / Re: Boss electronic switching....
Last post by NorthCoast - January 24, 2026, 07:57:30 PMLet us know what you come up with, I'm really curious about solid-state switching options.
#38
Build Reports / Re: DS-1 modded and rehoused…
Last post by greysun - January 24, 2026, 02:55:23 PMWorth noting: you could easily take the buffers out if you've already gone this far into modding the pedal, but I liked where it landed and didn't wanna push my luck. If you really don't want them even with the effect on...
www.electrosmash.com/boss-ds1-analysis breaks down where the buffers start and stop. Remove those parts and set your in and out wires accordingly.
www.electrosmash.com/boss-ds1-analysis breaks down where the buffers start and stop. Remove those parts and set your in and out wires accordingly.
#39
Build Reports / Re: DS-1 modded and rehoused…
Last post by greysun - January 24, 2026, 02:50:11 PMI couldn't help myself and continued to mod this to be true bypass*
Why true bypass* (asterisk)? Well, the in/out buffers are technically still there - I can just bypass them in clean.
How did I do this? I took out the transistors that control the electronic switching (Q6, Q7 and Q8) and jumper'd the outside pins of Q6 and Q7 and left Q8 empty. All of the parts at the bottom of the boss board were for the electronic switching, so I took out everything but the resistors in that part of the circuit for space and to possibly help with any noise. The 3PDT now has PLENTY of space and it worked like a charm. Used madbeans foot switch diagram and it's beautiful (well, it doesn't LOOK beautiful cause it was tight working in there, but you know what I mean. Hehe).
Gut shots below. Any of the cream caps are of my own addition. You can see the LED for clipping near the IC, as well as the jumper at q6. Figuring out the power took me longer than I'd like to admit, but the way the battery was intertwined with the jack and power wasn't what I was used to.
So all in all - I took a pedal I didn't like, modded it to sound better in stock settings, added a "fuzz" switch (which so far is GREAT for leads), made it true bypass and put it into a housing I prefer. Win/win all around. Modding, true bypassing and rehousing these old buggers IS possible.
Why true bypass* (asterisk)? Well, the in/out buffers are technically still there - I can just bypass them in clean.
How did I do this? I took out the transistors that control the electronic switching (Q6, Q7 and Q8) and jumper'd the outside pins of Q6 and Q7 and left Q8 empty. All of the parts at the bottom of the boss board were for the electronic switching, so I took out everything but the resistors in that part of the circuit for space and to possibly help with any noise. The 3PDT now has PLENTY of space and it worked like a charm. Used madbeans foot switch diagram and it's beautiful (well, it doesn't LOOK beautiful cause it was tight working in there, but you know what I mean. Hehe).
Gut shots below. Any of the cream caps are of my own addition. You can see the LED for clipping near the IC, as well as the jumper at q6. Figuring out the power took me longer than I'd like to admit, but the way the battery was intertwined with the jack and power wasn't what I was used to.
So all in all - I took a pedal I didn't like, modded it to sound better in stock settings, added a "fuzz" switch (which so far is GREAT for leads), made it true bypass and put it into a housing I prefer. Win/win all around. Modding, true bypassing and rehousing these old buggers IS possible.
#40
Open Discussion / Re: Happy New Year 2026, Pork ...
Last post by Aleph Null - January 23, 2026, 04:11:33 PMThe AE tremolo produces a sine wave, or very close to one. I'm using that drive a two-stage optical phaser. It's producing vibrato. It doesn't go very slow, but that's not necessary in my use case. If you want a really slow sign wave, you might consider using a micronctoller. Maybe on of Electric Druid's TAPLFO chips?