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I was wondering if any of the fine PCB and kit suppliers like 1776, JMK, etc offer a relay bypass kit that does momentary mode. Like hold the switch in while applying power and it's in momentary mode. Or tap it quickly five times to enter momentary mode. I've been using the 1776 Finish Line relay board when I want relay switching but it doesn't have this feature.

I know Mr Bean offers the VFE switching board that has this feature but it is too big for my intended project. Looking for just the switch and the pcb with microcontroller and associated parts. Don't need the in/out and power jacks on the board.

Any clues?

ftp://ftp.cadsoft.de/eagle/program/7.7/

Thank you, I spent all morning googling and this never came up.

Hi, it's been awhile since I've attempted to make layouts at home. Since EagleCAD seems to be an Autodesk product now I was wondering if anyone has an older install of EagleCAD pre acquisition that would work on Win7 or even XP. I'm willing to keep an old PC around to just run basic free EagleCAD.

Seems like the last stage is clipping off the bottom half of the signal, which by the time it reaches the output (which passively blends dry and wet signals) I'm not getting much wet signal.

This Univox Micro Fazer does not faze!! I get a slightly quieter bypass signal with no phasing when effect is engaged.

http://schems.com/bmampscom/effects_misc/Univox_MicroFazer.gif

I audio probed down the line of the opamps and I get an awesome phasing sound at the output of all the opamps except the last one OP5 in the schematic. Could someone tell me what DC voltage I should expect at this output? The rest of the opamp outputs have ~4.5VDC on pins 1 and 7 except for that last one it only has about 2VDC.... strange?

Looking at other forum members who posted their voltages it seems this is normal. Not sure why this pin wouldn't be held at VB via R2 though... 

My klon seems to sound alright but I'm getting a strange voltage reading on one of the TL072, the other one seems ok. I am using the TC1044SCPA charge pump. On IC1 pin 3 I'm getting a voltage reading that starts at about +3.54VDC and slowly goes down the longer I keep my meter on it. The other side of R2 reads +4.5VDC as expected. Is this normal or should I swap out IC1? IC2 pins 3 and 5 are directly connected to VB rail and both have the expected +4.5VDC.

And on an unrelated note, my +18V line is only reading +16.7VDC... again, is this normal?

Schematic I used : http://imgur.com/DwJq9Gg

I appreciate the reply alan. I did notice that at a certain point on bias trimmer the phased signal starts to take on a large DC offset. See my attached video... This is me probing at pin7 of U3 while slowly moving FET bias from 0V and it occurs around -2V. This also occurs if I set the bias properly (around -1.3V) and then set the osc amplitude too high. Any idea what causes this?

I will likely use that procedure (which is basically what I already did... turn oscillator output off, manually move FET bias trimmer until you find the range that phasing happens, set that trimmer in middle of range, then set oscillator amplitude to taste). Just thought it would be cool to find the theoretical means of calibrating this as opposed to empirical.

Hi everyone, I just picked up a Maestro PS-1A phaser. I rebuilt the power supply with new filter caps and diodes and would now like to try and understand how to properly set the two trim pots. Here is the schematic. One trim is for oscillator amplitude (depth), the other biases the FETs. Other than plucking my guitar and wiggling both until it sounds correct... is there a proper way I can do this with a multimeter and scope?

I understand the oscillator is just slightly modulating the FET bias... and so it would be good to have FETs biased very close to the middle of the operating range... just need to understand how to find that. Any ideas?

The paint charges alone are motivation enough to learn how to do backyard powdercoating. 

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/WhiteLoop

Damn, I love building my own but at that price... plus the extra DC out jacks... and it looks nice. Hows the quality of the footswitches? Any issues with popping?

I'd like to build a loop switcher with just two loops solely to compare two pedals. It seems simple, one 3PDT to switch between loop out and bypass and another 3PDT to switch between the two loops. Am I missing anything? Better way to do this? Suggestions? 

I'm trying to build a friend a prop for his halloween costume, a basic transponder. One one end a transmitter and the other end would be a handheld responder that beeps with frequency in relation to distance to the transmitter. Is there a textbook circuit for this? Something I could power with batteries on both ends?

All the kool kids got kicked out of San Fransisco by the tech wizards and now live in Oakland, and they're sort of making Oakland into a west coast Brooklyn. Lots of great eats and music there right now (Brick & Mortar and The Independent). I loves me some Doug Fir Lounge in Portland - great stage!

My roommates and I got priced out around six years ago, we aren't cool though. The whole techie circle of life cycle thing that is going on in the bay is both so interesting and infuriating at the same time. Oakland isn't much cheaper these days.