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It sure did. then, i built probably half a dozen fuzzes this year and as no modeler can capture fuzz for bananas, seems i'll do just as much next year bc i need every each one of them.
That being said. i really recommand taking a look at https://mod.audio/ download the mod desktop app and try it on your pc, mac whatever it is that you use to mainly browse what's remaining of the web.

This thing is really fun.

Thanks, I surely will do - looks like it would be a perfect setup with the ekano.

Thanks for sharing.
I was just starting to investigate arduino based controller for a mod.audio raspberry Pi based modeler/multi pedal. I'll need 4 pots and 3 footswitches.  Yet another world to explore.

A raspberry Pi based modeler? Wow - the world has come a long way since Fuzz pedals ;-)

New version available. See this thread: https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=35424.msg336678#msg336678

More than three years ago, I started a thread about a DIY Midi Controller I built:

https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=eabc2027e4865c0f53bfe13b51bdbf5b&topic=33087.0

This thing has been on my pedalboard ever since, but I redesigned it to use another microprocessor (Arduino Pro Micro). I also created a website with all required ressources (3D-print-files, drill-templates, build instructions, programming guide,...):

https://sites.google.com/view/ekano/start

Add-On: This new version will also be recognized by you computer as an input device once connected to your USB-C-Port. This being said, it can control your DAW or plugins or anything midi on your computer as well...

Enjoy reading, building, programming, playing.

That's what I was thinking it was. I just wanted to make sure. Thank you.

Glad that was answered, I was afraid I picked a bad term (i.e. something political incorrect). Sorry, non-native speaker here.

Great idea... and looks slick in that enclosure.  Well done!
I am a geek for micro controller stuff... Bought a couple of Raspberry Pi Pico wireless boards a while ago, need to dig em out & have a play!

Those come with Bluetooth as well - even cheaper choice! Never tried these!

I need this.  I use the IK Blue Turner because it works so slick with Planning Center.  I'd rather rock a homebuilt alternative though.

And I like Marshall Arts projects :-)

Thanks, gordo - great to still "see" you around here ;-). I use this for an app called "SongbookPro" and it works just perfect. After all, it's just emulating a bluetooth keyboard with two buttons.

Really rad! I've always wanted to build a page turner pedal since they're so neat, but I don't have an iPad to use it with so it would be kinda pointless lol

Honestly, I use this on a 100€ Chinese Android Tablet with a seperate google account with nothing else installed on it. No Mail, no Calendar, no nothing. And it works perfectly for my purposes (lyrics, chords, tab snipplets, notes)

P.S. It does come with side walls ;-)

I haven't posted in years, I think, but I thought you guys might like this one:

Ever wished to own one of these bluetooth page turners like Pageflip, Airturn, iRig BlueTurn but didn't like the price tag (around 100$)? Years ago, I built this funny-looking prototype in a quick-and-dirty approach which I used for about four years: https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=30108. The only downside besides the looks was, that this pedal went into standby after just a few minutes and I had to wake it up now and then by pressing one of the footswitches.

As the wonderful ESP32 chip is available on a Wemos D1 board now (https://makersportal.com/shop/esp32-d1-mini-bluetoothwifi-board), I thought it would be fun to build a new one, better looking and without the standby-issues. It's probably the easiest pedal you can build, less parts than a fuzz, no PCB. I used a 3D-printed frame to hold the Wemos on the backside, it's powered either by a cell phone wall wart or a power bank (will probably run for 40 hours on a 10 Ah power bank).

Arduino code and 3D-Model available (just PM me).

I am still here, guys :-)

Haven't posted in a while, but this was too good to not let you guys and gals know:

This might be a door opener for more intense use of SMD...

Who will design the first pedal using this process?

I would participate, if it would be an acceptable time for Berlin Time Zone ;-)

Tails

Unfortunately, its just a remote, not a bypass switch. No audio signal going through this...

I haven't built anything in quite some time, mainly because I am happy with an HX Stomp with an external DIY midi controller feeding the power amp of a trusted tube amp. So, this post is also to document that I am still around 

I was in urgent need to remotely activate/deactivate my TC Helicon Play Acoustic live. TC Helicon only provides switches without LEDs, so I build one WITH LED based on a smart switch PCB I designed like 3 yrs ago. The switch shows the urgency I was in ;-)





Now comes the nerdy stuff:
This pedal (like many others) needs a momentary switch to be activated and deactivated. My switch uses a DPDT momentary switch to directly communicate with the pedal (first half) and to interface with an Attiny85 to alternate the LED-Status. I could have used an NE555-based circuit as well, but the board was designed for an Attiny.

Here are some questions:

• Is there really no commercial pedal that works momentary on the jack and latching on the LED? Hard to believe, but I did not find one.
• The Helicon needs a TRS-cable. My Switch makes a connection between Ring and Tip, however, I want to use standard cables with TRS on both ends. I use a 9V battery for the Attiny and the LED and would like it to be disconnected  when I pull the TRS plug from the pedal. I only found the very pricey Switchcraft 13 Jack (which is mono, but that's ok) that comes with an "isolated make circuit" switching function. Are there any other Jacks available?

As I have everything more ore less in place and only some programming and PCB-redesign will be required, I will make this into a universal switch. Soft 1PST Switch communicates with the Attiny, which controls a relay and an LED. Operation modes can be toggled between the following modes:

• Jack Momentary, LED Momentary (a real momentary pedal with LED e.g. for momentary effects)
• Jack Momentary, LED Latching (what I need for the Helicon)
• Jack Latching, LED Latching (a real latching switch e.g. for classic tube amp channels)
• Hybrid Mode 1: Momentary, if you hold the button for e.g. a second or more (will go off at release of the button), Latching switch, if you press the button short (will go off on the next button press).
• Hybrid Mode 2: Same like Hybrid Mode 1, but working with pedals that only expect momentary impulses to toggle. So I can use the Harmonizer in the TC only for a few seconds (e.g. in a verse) by holding the buttons down or for longer periods (e.g. the full chorus) by switching it on at the beginning of the chorus and off again after the chorus.

The new design will have the "invert" button as well to invert the behaviour of the LED. Any other suggestions on what a switch could do before I start programming?

I wrapped this up for my live rig:



I will most likely stick with the configuration in bank one (3 Snapshots on the bottom row (buttons D-F), scroll HX presets up/down (buttons A/B) on the top row and a solo boost (Button C). This means, I will not change the code over in the near future, but document it well enough for everyone else to adjust it to their preferences. You can find it here:

https://sites.google.com/view/ekano/start

Dont hesitate to ask questions, if you have trouble getting into it.

That's too cool.  Have you used it direct to front of house?  I'm already using in-ear monitors so it wouldn't be a drastic change to not "feel" the cabinet.

No, I am still kinda oldschool in terms of "feel". I read that Steve Stevens is using wazacraft cab sims on stage now, so maybe it's time for me to think about in-ears and cab sims as well....

English is better than mine and it's my native tongue.  My wife accuses me of mumbling...

Damn, everytime I build one of your projects it drags me back to the fact that I want an HX Stomp.  I just don't want to pay for it :-)

This project might be the tipping point...

Thanks... You SHOULD get one... Mine goes straight into the return jack of an Engl Ironball. I dont miss the amp's preamp, and that means something...

Here ist the new setup: