Messages

Any chance the 14mm clear shaft pot adapters are going to be restocked soon/ever?

I was just browsing at LMS  and saw that they carry clear stomp switch washers.  They're 10 for $1, so that might be an easy investment on the next order just to have on hand for the future.

Hear me out on this, what if you abandon the idea of modding the wah itself?  I used to buy used Crybabies of all sorts back when they were $20 and less on eBay and do all sorts of silly things with them.  If you change out the old switch to a 3PDT, chances are you are going to need to shave down the rubber bumpers in the front to be able to reliably actuate the new switch (assuming they are still attached).  The standard wah switches are taller than a 3PDT, and it turns into a whole balancing act once you start changing out the parts.

With a choice vintage unit like this I would try to convince them to just go with a little bypass loop pedal for the wah instead.  I did one of these for my friend's Morley wah, because he has bigger feet and had a hard time consistently catching the switch on the Morley on a dark stage.  All you would need would be a box, 1/4" and DC jacks, LED, and your switching setup.  You could just put a 3PDT in there or you could get fancy and do soft touch relay switching so it would be easy to pop on and off.  That is the route I would try to convince them to go with it.

UPDATE!

I finally got a chance to break out the soldering iron and get this figured out. After plenty of wiring and unwiring my findings are as follows. Type 2 switches are the way to go. The overall performance is better in this configuration with both bass and guitar. However, Type 1 switches worked too and did not seem to break the functionality of the circuit. Both switches still worked fine in the middle position, but were maybe a little thinner sounding than when wired with a Type 2 switch.

Thanks again to everyone who offered assistance!

I did a lot of back and forth between a Type 1/2 diagram and the schematic and PCB traces and also assumed it should be a Type 2 switch, but also ended up with a headache from all the flipping back and forth. I think in the name of science, I'm gonna wire up some test leads to the board and see if wiring the switch as a Type 1 or 2 gives the best results. I'll report back my findings, probably in the next few days. Thanks again everyone for your feedback so far.

Hi all,

Sorry to bring back this old thread but I currently am working with a Mini Mu and was wondering if anyone ever figured out definitively what kind of DPDT On On On switches the circuit should be using?  The switches linked in the build doc are labeled by Small Bear as Type 1 in the description, but when I got them today they read as a Type 2 switch when I test them with my meter.  My Mu was sounding a bit lackluster and I was wondering if I originally got the wrong switches.  I have removed the original switches that I had and bought the ones that were linked in the build doc, but I am hesitant to solder these on until I have a better idea what I need.  Thanks for any and all assistance!

-Justin

Got it!  Thanks!

I am trying to build an expression pedal out of an old busted Crybaby for my Dunlop Univibe but can't find any schematics or gut shots anywhere except for one post on freestompboxes.org. This post indicates that there is more inside the thing than just a jack and pot and that they have pictures of the guts and a schematic that they have drawn up. The only problem is that I do not have an account on that forum so I am unable to view the pictures. Would anyone be kind enough to save those pictures on that thread and send them to me?  I would do this myself, but it seems registration for the forum is closed. Please and thanks!

The referenced thread:

http://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2911

Thanks again!

I was intrigued by you d'lay but after the third sentence my head started hurting and I had to lay down.it looks cool as hell,how does it sound?

It sounds really cool.  The thing has an uncolored, well defined clarity to the sound even with all the crazy wiring and signal routing.  I made this for my guitarist, I primarily play bass so I have never really messed around with delays.  I plugged it in to test everything out and before I knew it I had spent 45 minutes just playing around with all the different sounds I could get from it.  I had the most fun running both delays in parallel and using the feedback switch to make some completely insane noises.

The signal chain works as follows.

Series

Input--Buffer Splitter--D'Lay 1--D'Lay2--Output


Parallel
                                   --D'Lay 1--
                                 /                \
Input--Buffer Splitter--<                   >--Mixer--Output
                                 \                /
                                   --D'Lay 2--

When the circuits are running in series its just like having two delay pedals one after the other.  The clean signal goes through the first delay, then the signal from that delay gets processed through the second.  When the circuits are in parallel each delay gets a clean signal and their outputs then get mixed down into one signal.  Each circuit has their own set of Time, Repeat, and Level controls.  Hope that sheds some light on it, if not, keep asking questions and I'll try to help as best as I can.

I actually just completed a build like midwayfair suggested.  I used two GuitarPCB D'Lay circuits in one box with one of JMK's Buffer-Splitter circuits at the front and a slightly modified version of the mixing section of the runoffgroove.com Splitter-Blend at the end.  By using a 4PDT switch the thing can be run in series or parallel.  By having the two separate circuits and this wiring configuration you can really get a wealth of different sounds.  I am pretty embarrassed by the rat's nest of wiring I have going on inside the thing, but I guess I'll share pictures anyway.