Thank you very much for those tips.
I haven't had the experience to know the sound qualities between say dipped ceramic caps vs normal ones, and box caps vs metal film ones though. Thanks for confirmation the box ones will be ok Pryde. Also cheers for the tip if I can't find the 3.3k resistor or other parts.
The parts I have changed from that picture are:
Vikiin Dipped Ceramic capacitor for C2 to a normal ceramic.
1x Mono plug to a Stereo one (after realising I forgot the stereo for power on/off on the input)
I stuck with the bi-polar electolytics, because I would of had to choose a 16v model for two of them to stick with all polorised caps (due to what was on offer), and I see in the pdf that some of the board goes up to 18v. Originally I just saw audio grade on these parts, however I see your point, the bi-polar ones are more for AC electricity. Will the bi-polar caps be detremental to my project? If 16v was suitable in the first place, I would of asked are Tantalum caps any better than normal Electrolytic, as the wiki says less DC loss and lower impedence, all of which sound positive to me.
Thanks very much for your time with those tips. I am glad my shopping cart has stayed alive for days while I decide these finer points. I want to make sure it turns out to be a Fat Pants, and not a Fart Pants.
I'm going to have a crack and doing my own layout too, or use one of the other pedal's layouts that have a horizontal template, so it'll take up less realesate on my pedal board, as I can squish a pedal sideways, and still leave room for few other MadBean projects. I might put the knobs on the side of the pedal too. Has anyone had any luck squeezing the Fat Pants into a 1590A, or is that a bit enthusiastic?
QuoteAnything smaller than 1nF (the "pF" range): Ceramic capsThat really helped me thank you Vallhagen.
1nF -- 1uF (the "nF" range): Box / film caps
1uF and above (the "uF" range): Electrolytics.
I haven't had the experience to know the sound qualities between say dipped ceramic caps vs normal ones, and box caps vs metal film ones though. Thanks for confirmation the box ones will be ok Pryde. Also cheers for the tip if I can't find the 3.3k resistor or other parts.
The parts I have changed from that picture are:
Vikiin Dipped Ceramic capacitor for C2 to a normal ceramic.
1x Mono plug to a Stereo one (after realising I forgot the stereo for power on/off on the input)
I stuck with the bi-polar electolytics, because I would of had to choose a 16v model for two of them to stick with all polorised caps (due to what was on offer), and I see in the pdf that some of the board goes up to 18v. Originally I just saw audio grade on these parts, however I see your point, the bi-polar ones are more for AC electricity. Will the bi-polar caps be detremental to my project? If 16v was suitable in the first place, I would of asked are Tantalum caps any better than normal Electrolytic, as the wiki says less DC loss and lower impedence, all of which sound positive to me.
Thanks very much for your time with those tips. I am glad my shopping cart has stayed alive for days while I decide these finer points. I want to make sure it turns out to be a Fat Pants, and not a Fart Pants.
I'm going to have a crack and doing my own layout too, or use one of the other pedal's layouts that have a horizontal template, so it'll take up less realesate on my pedal board, as I can squish a pedal sideways, and still leave room for few other MadBean projects. I might put the knobs on the side of the pedal too. Has anyone had any luck squeezing the Fat Pants into a 1590A, or is that a bit enthusiastic?
