Messages

thanks for checking it out! I'll keep working on it.

ugh I guess i don't know how to imbed the video. I have two 2399 echo pedals in the fx loop but they were not powered during the video. The amp is analog solid state. It does it with battery or power supply. i use a BBE supacharger which has isolated power for each pedal. I'm wondering if maybe it's a failing 100uf cap? Or maybe I should re-flow all grounds?

Thanks for your reply Midwayfair!

https://www.facebook.com/tol.stokes/videos/1205995142803198/

I love the PeaceKeeper! I am getting some ticking in the background. Wondering if it might be the J201's?

If I turn the clean knob all the way down is the signal supposed to go away?  With the clean pot turned down all the way I get nothing. 

It's like it has two Vol controls. One for Clean, one for comp. So I still get signal with the clean knob all the way down IF I have the compression knob up. And the opposite should apply as well.

I think that blue dot indicates the + so i am guessing it's installed correctly. I've never burnt a vactrol in 10+ years of building. I usually install them last and use alligator clips to wick heat while soldering them.

I love the varitone! Catalinbread used to make one as well as Snarling Dogs. I've been wanting to make one myself. I'll see what I can find. The snarling Dogs just had a post effect booster like LPB1 if I recall correctly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WNYKFtxbeSg

Thanks!

Hey! I'm loving all the different bypass boards! Many of them include polarity protection via diode or mosfet. My question is, should I omit these components on a project PCB if the bypass pcb already has it? Will the extra diodes cause extra voltage drain if i don't? I already omit the LED resistor.

nice graphics! I LOVE my 4:1. you say it seems subtle? In comparison to a Dyna/Ross? Orange squeezer? Mine seems to have plenty of squash and sustain at extreme settings.

i REALLY like the optical bypass boards from 1776, rullywow, grindcustomsfx.

The reason I am avoiding 3pdt is the switches often fail. The dpdt switches are generally considered more reliable.

http://www.mrblackpedals.com/blogs/straight-jive/6629778-what-really-causes-switch-pop

the only thing that worked for me was to use an optical bypass board AND add 2m2 resistor on the output. since there was an extra ground pad on the bypass pcb, I soldered the pdr directly to the bypass board.

hey! I messed around with C1 and C10 but it always seemed to distort so I replaced with stock values. Using the Small Stone values for the phase stages gave me a much better phase shifting.

I ended up sticking with the EHX Stone values. .0068 C10 and C1 changes seemed to increase distortion. It sounds much better to me now. Not so trebly and anemic.

so far so good. Increasing cap values is helping make a much tastier phase. More details soon.