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Here is my newest build. Haven't got to play with it much but so far it is pretty sweet!! Screwdriver stacks into the Lunar Mod.  Used 1776 Effects Opto Bypass again and I am LOVING them. Great work on those!!

Great green growler there:). Sparking!

Curious: i never seen a red footswitch (mine are always blue). Where did you get that one?

Cheers!

Mammoth Electronics

I know the knobs are a little funky positioned but I wanted to leave them board mounted in case I switched to separate enclosures. The Urchin/Rub-A-Dub combo is killer though.

Is the trails bypass pretty transparent compared to the true bypass?

I can't really ear a difference, must be transparent then

Just boxed it up tonight with a rub-a-dub following it and it is fantastic!!  Thanks a lot for the help!!!

exactly take out c3 and replace by a switch and c3 in serial
...
I used a 3pdt switch for true bypass and master switch when i don't want trails

Is the trails bypass pretty transparent compared to the true bypass?

So you have an optional "Trails" bypass that is also run through a true bypass as well?

How well does the trails bypass work? I have a build in progress and would love to have a trails bypass if it worked seamlessly.

Did you do it as described here (but with the inclusion of your master bypass as well): http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=4367.0

Anyone?

I have a couple builds I am working on and want to do something different with the LEDs than I have done in previously builds. I have seen some builds with some trick hidden leds behind graphics, and some with large colored lenses (some "steampunk" inspired builds) that looked really sweet.

So, if you have done anything cool post some pics of it!! Also, if you have any details on where you sourced bezels or lenses and how it all went together that would be cool to know as well.

Most of my first builds were before I discovered MadBeans PCBs. 

Here are the first builds I had done. The "Timmy Jr" and "O.C.Drive" were just rehouses of Danelectro Cool Cat pedals.
Platinum Overdrive: Barber LTD Silver vero build - based on the schematic he released.
Gold pedal on left: Attempted OCD clone on vero - would go into crazy oscillations if the gain got cranked too high. Never did fix it.
Zen Drive: Vero Zen clone
DLS: Vero DLS Clone
The Tremojo: this was the last build of the group. It is a vero build of the 4ms Tremulus Lune tremolo. It is an amazing trem and has been on my friends board since I built it.

I'll have to check my computer and see if I have any gut shots of any of them.

You have a part number?

Update: I think I found it: 45KN030 (or similar)

Heh, almost 300 posts, multiple eagle layouts, and finally your first box!

What are those knobs?

They look an awful lot like Eagle knobs.  If so, you can get them at mouser.  I think they are what Skreddy uses on his builds.  I used them on my Andromeda build as well.

I wonder if they chaged. I had bought some a while back and had no problems with it. What is so bad with the stuff you got?

Yes it is.  . The stock switch went out so it was a great time to upgrade. I love them.

Lay down a coat or two of clear first to give you a nice level surface.

I agree. Gutshot required!

This is exactly the way I imagined people using the taptation boards.

Jacob

Well, I might get the gut shots up tonight. I am not really proud of how un-tidy this one is inside which is why I didn't bother taking pics of it, but I will take some when I have a chance. Also, I didn't want to explain the semi-strange use of glue to mount/reduce the intensity of the LEDs (it will make sense when I post the gut shot).

So I had a Cave Dweller in a 1590a enclosure that I really liked, but I had a Taptation (w/ mod) board just lying around waiting to be used... I had planned on incorporating it into a Deep Blue Delay build, but I like the Cave Dweller so much I was thinking about not building the DBD...

Now I have an empty drilled 1590a enclosure and a new yellow tap-tempo Cave Dweller with modulation.


Depth controls the depth of the modulation. It can go anywhere from none, to sea sickening. I am going to have to play with it some more to see how much use I get out of it, but it is a fun feature to have available.

The LED by the footswitch is the on/bypass indicator. The 2 that are in between the knobs are the 2 indicators for tempo. The one on the right is for the tapped tempo, and the one on the left changes accordingly with the division switch for 1/4, dotted 8th, and 8th notes.

I am REALLY impressed with the Taptation board. It works really well and will be put to good use. The division switch is very nice for locking in a dotted 8th or 8th notes just having to tap 1/4 notes.