Messages

Ok. Just to follow up. I replaced a suspect trimpot for the clock and reset all the trims. I noticed that as the bias was turned that when I first heard a sweep there was alot of distortion and as I moved it further it cleaned up but would quickly do funky things with the sweep. Managed to get it pretty good and now it runs very clean and has no hum whatsoever. So the takeaway is follow the instructions for setting these and adjust slowly.

Also, the trimpot I replaced had the wrong value initially 250K vs 100K but I believe it is used as a voltage divider, so that shouldnt have been an issue right?

Oh, that could be it. I just checked and found I got a batch of 10 off ebay in 2012 marked Panasonic MN3007. The actual chip is marked with an embossed M and a 9N to the right

Hi there. I have an old 2011 Current lover that I put together but never used. Today I got it working again and it is really distorted. It is completely quiet when I am not playing but especially when strumming...distorted. I have adjusted the bias and clock but if the clock is too low I get no real flanging and as I bring it up it distorts, bringing it up a little more cleans it up a bit but then I start to oscilate weirdly. I saw something about r29 at 10k being too small (I have tried 9v and 12v supplies) and that I could increase it so that the clock volume would not go to low and cut out. Would this allow me to bring it up more without distorting?

Thanks,
Ben

Ok, maybe I rambled...I'll make one more try.

1) When switching between amp inputs do I need to switch the grounds so that the ground from amp1 is isolated from the ground of amp2.

2) same question but when switching between amp effects loops send and returns

Thanks,
Ben

I am trying to figure out how to make an amp switching pedal that will switch both the pre amp effects (dist etc) and the effects loop ones (modulation etc) with 1 pedal and hopefully 1 stomp switch. Tell me if this sounds right.

1) IN of amp1
2) Output of pre amp effects
3) In of amp2

4) Send of amp 1
5) input of 1st modulation effect
6) Send of amp 2

7) return of amp 1
output of last mod effect
9) return of amp 2

My question is how should I be grounding this? Do the grounds need to be switching too. Do I need to worry about any situation where both amps are on at the same time.

Sorry this all seems like it should be obvious but I am having difficulties
Thanks,
Ben

Per the documentation:
IT IS NOT RECOMMENDED THAT YOU SWITCH BETWEEN THE MN3005 AND MN3205/v3205 ON THE SAME
BOARD. We found this caused problems and resulted in dead boards and/or components. If you want to avoid this, you
should decide before soldering in your jumpers which version it will be.


Did you remember to change the jumpers?

Be careful...per the docs:
Limitations
While the Road Rage offers the convenience of extra voltage with relatively few parts the downside is
its current supply power and voltage tolerance. The TC1044SCPA, MAX1044CPA and ICL7660SCPA
can comfortably supply around 20mA

Alternatives
You can use an LT1054 in place of the charge pumps listed above for approximately 2 – 3x the output
current

So if your plan is to daisy chain some 18v pedals off this you would be quite limited I believe

What Midwayfair said and also:

Those little wire strands have me spooked. On the top side around the sweep and the range..snip those away.

You say the leds don't light up...do you have more than the bypass/engaged led? Maybe a picture of your 3pdt?

Also does adjusting the Vol trimmer do anything?:
Vol – This trimmer allows you to select the output gain of the effect. It will normally be set full
counter-clockwise, but can be adjusted should you experience volume loss when the effect is
turned on.

Just another guess but pos 2 and 4 are both connecting to 6 and 8 from the schematic which just connects 10v through r25....are you sure r25 is ok? can you get an ohm reading of 2m2 between the 10v and switch pin6?

Have you made sure that the switch is working properly? Do you get continuity between A and 1, and also between B and 5 when you have it in position 1?

Fixed. Ok well I replaced c16, but the one I pulled measured fine out of circuit, and I also reflowed either r21 or r23 I forget which...and now I have it working.

Thanks for everyone who tried to help.


PS
Just in case anyone would like to explain which one would be the most likely culprit in causing a constant 4.2v on pin 14 (+) of lm324 please tell me. I am thinking that if r23 wasnt making contact then IC5D would be on its own getting powered from VC->r19->pin12 which I believe I measured at 4.2. Pin 13(-) would only be getting input from the series-opposed capicitor feedback loop that would saturate and become an open circuit. So no feedback and Vout would be 4.2v as I saw...is that correct?

Ok, so I did something bad to my CL somehow when I boxed it up.
I am not getting any sweep and the rate knob does nothing. As a result the effect
is something like a cocked wah, and I can manually move the range knob to artificially create a sweep.

Am I right in assuming that the sweep comes from the LM324n and that pin 14 should be oscillating?
It is not and is a constant 4.2 volts. Pin 8 is giving a constant 0.56v.
pin 9 is 4.2V

I have replaced the chip with no change.

Ben

Ok, well I am having a problem with noise and the current lover. I am getting a hum that is sweeping with the rate pot. It comes thru when the effect is on, and does not change volume with adj the vol of the amp (same vol even when amp volume knob is at 0) but will get louder if I change the volume level pot on the effect.

At 9v it was ok, but at 12v it is pretty loud. None of my other effects including smoothie exhibit this.
I have tried different adapters and plug them in directly to the wall, with no change.

I pulled the effect from the enclosure with no change...I pulled the led as well.

Is there a filtering cap that I should look at?
How would I go about determining where the noise is introduced?
I do have a road rage I could build to see if that could help.

Ben

try 12v adapter. You'll have to rebias but you'll get much more usable range.

This isnt actually a help request but I thought I would put it here for others that are trying to get 9v to work with mn3007

I just finished building CL with 3007. This is the first flanger I have built. I do have a phaser (smoothie) and a chorus.

At 9v I found it impossible to bias into flanging without pretty heavy distortion. I was pretty sure I did something wrong until I plugged it into 12v.
At 12v I get can get a very clean flanging (close to smoothie phaser but...ummm smoothier?) and that airplane sound on chords when upping the feedback. Very very nice.

Has anyone managed a 9v 3007 build that sounds good?

(FWIW In adjusting the clock with 12v, it is not distortion that stops me moving it, but a detuning sound. With a single note I hear it warble, a kind of chorus that then detunes down in an unpleasant (to my ears ymmv) way. It is very clear when I hit this point and just moving the clock back some cleans it right up. )

Ben