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Hey guys, just finished up my Boneyard build... everything seems to be working perfectly except that my Boost pops loudly when being both engaged and disengaged...

I installed the BOOST 3PDT switch under the 1590BB part of the docs.. I used a A100K pot with 22k resistors on the pot and the switch.

I installed the RPD @ 2.2M which did not remedy the issue.

This happens both in and out of the box... no part subs.

any clue what could be causing this?

I was coming here to create a thread on my FatPants issue, Saw Mike B's post.. started to list my issue in his thread because I have the same but moved it out here to a new one so to not hijack his thread.

i just finished my FatPants build and it seems that I dont even start to get a boost until both knobs are turned up quite a bit on the body setting and even more without the body switch...

here is what Im getting...

Q2 @ 8.9V - Q1 @ 17.8V

Body switch OFF - Unity is with Volume at max and Fat knob at 12 oclock.
Body switch ON -  Unity = Volume @ Noon and Fat @ 0, or Both knobs at 11 oclock

If I ignore voltage and dial in the trimpot pedal for max boost Q2 is at 3.8V with Fat knob at max and body switch off...  it goes to 16v when I turn the Fat knob all the way down.

I would wait and replace them with higher voltage rated caps. General rule of thumb that I know of is to use double the voltage rating just in case. Most people around here, and noted on Beans build Doc's, use 25v or above.

I would save those two caps for a pedal that just runs nine volts. C7 the electrolytic will STINK! if you blow it and cause a mess. Not fun.

If all you need is those 2 caps, Post in the parts jar section of the forum with your location.

Happy Building!

Thanks sgmezei!

I have more caps on the way... ill swap them out.

Just noticed that i only have 16v caps for C7 and C4.. will this be a problem in these locations?

Hey all,

Building a FatPants and seeing some things for the first time and want to make sure I understand.

I see a +9v hookup, and also see the 18v markings... the pedal is powered by 9v correct? and the 18v comes from the 1044?

and therefore i need to make sure that all my caps are 25v or higher capacity correct?

any help is appreciated..

ty

ah yes... that sounds like a great place to start.

on the saber schematic, would i put it between between R1 and C1?

Hey Guys,

Breadboarded a sabretooth for a bass player friend of mine and had him try it out last night... I noticed that with the Fuzz knob turned all the way down the pedal was producing quite a bit of fuzz based on the fact that he had the volume knob on his guitar turned all the way up.

This makes the pedal very extreme and im afraid that he either would rarely use it, or if he did would never be able to bring if off very low settings.

Instead of forcing him to keep his volume knob backed way down on his guitar, is there something I can change on the circuit to get more usable controls?

We really like the sound of the subtle fuzz that was produced when he kept his guitar volume rolled back... I would prefer that this is what the pedal would sound like on low fuzz and then be able to bring it up from there...

I noticed that the Fuzz pot is a 2k pot.. would increasing this be a place to start?

It just seems like the circuit gets flooded too easily by the guitar volume knob.

any help is appreciated.

he was playing with a passive bass.

Or is there another bass fuzz circuit that I should take a look at?

thanks

Rob

Love this pedal... made 1 change to C12 to bring up the low end and rolloff some from the treble knob. Sounds great!

thank you.  i swapped the wires. I thought about swapping them initially, but I still would have gone crazy wondering why this happened.. thanks for the info, I learned something from this..

I bought the plug at radio shack.. I wanted to be able to use a battery when i didnt have a proper wall wart available.

thanks again.

I see... Would an acceptable fix then be to swap the wires from the battery to the DC plug?

Hey guys,

Wondering if someone can spot where Ive gone wrong... I'm stumped.

I just finished my test rig and can't figure out why this is happening... I feel like its a stupid simple issue that I'm looking right past..



OK... So I have a GREEN wire going from the ground of the DC jack to the sleeve of the jack to its right (output) and a RED wire on the outer lug of the DC jack that goes to my RED alligator clip. I have a BLACK wire along with my audio probe on the TIP of the jack to the right (output). I have my WHITE Alligator clip on the sleeve of the input jack and my YELLOW alligator clip on the tip of the input jack.






I rigged a 9v battery clip to a DC plug which seems to test out correctly.






However, when I plug in the battery, clip the red wire to my red multimeter probe and touch the black MM probe to the sleeve of the jack to the right I get negative voltage.



Yet, when I hookup my test rig backwards to my MM, I get positive voltage..



Please tell me I'm not as stupid as I feel right now...

thanks

Rob

hey guys, I just wanna add my .02 to this.

I just finished my chunk chunk, and with the stock build I felt that I also wanted a bit more low end. I noticed that when engaged, my build seemed to really strip out alot of lows that had to be put back in with the amp because my bass pot didnt give me quite enough... I also noticed that my treble knob seemed to get aggressively bright once past 3 oclock... I have my fets biased more towards 5v rather than 4.5 because it seems to tighten up my sound a bit and does away with a bit of fizz... probably also could be making it a bit thinner also which could be contributing to my low end issue.

anyway...

I saw this thread and decided to socket my C12... i replaced the stock value with a 47n. and it really made a nice difference...

I now have a full range of lows which adds all the versatility that i want..

However, this swap also made my treble knob become usuable all the way to max with no harsh unusable sound... i dont know if this is even possible from the swap or its just my mind tricking me.. but my treble is much more usable now all the way around.

very very happy with this build and the small edit.  killer pedal.  

thank you.