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Hey guys,

I've done a 1:1 build of a dual strip Univibe I have and while I've gotten it dialed in, the original unit has these mids to it that I'm going to attribute to component drift and I can't seem to replicate them. I've traced the original unit twice to be sure there were no odd values, etc. and everything is as it should be, so I'm hoping someone has some suggestions.

Thanks.

Hi,

My Harbinger 1.5 is all built out and I'd like to add the cancel mod like on the Castledine Supra Vibe. After comparing schematics, it looks like all I need to do is short Pin 2 of the Offset trimmer to ground but wanted to double check with you guys so I don't fry anything.

Thanks!

My Retrograde build came out great but I've noticed that when I switch the octave on, there's a noticeable volume drop. Is there a way to balance the volume between octave on and off? Thanks.

I've been messing with relay based switching and have the code where I want it but have run into two issues that I could use input on.

1) On a couple of my builds (overdrive/distortion pedals) I'm getting what can best be described as a squeak or metallic ping that comes through my amp whenever the relay switches to the ON state. I'm pretty sure it's not the coding so could I have a microphonic part somewhere? The relay? The switch? Anyone else run across this and is there something I can do to quiet it?

2) I'm using the short shaft SPST momentary switches from Mammoth Electronics and sometimes the pedal doesn't switch smoothly/cleanly. For example...

- The circuit will be on but the LED is off and I have to hit the switch again.
- I'll go to turn the pedal on or off and will have to double tap it to work

This doesn't happen with every switch and it also doesn't happen every time so I'm thinking it's not a coding issue (but wanted to be sure). Does anyone else have experience with these switches and did you run into the same issue?

Thanks in advance.

Thanks.

Finally got my Nautilus build up and running after tearing my hair out over what ended up being a bad electrolytic and it sounds like it should but the Peak LED stays dimly lit all the time, even when the pedal is bypass (it does get brighter when I hit the strings so that parts works as it should). I'm 99.9% certain all connections are solid so I wanted to see if this is the way it's supposed to be or if I need to tear it down again. Thanks.

Thanks.

Just wanted to be sure, thanks.

Rotagilla--I would go ahead and socket then lower R3 then. Try halving it to 15k or so. If you have a spare LM324 it would not hurt to pop that in IC1 as well.

Lowering R3 solved the problem, thanks!

Rotagilla--I would go ahead and socket then lower R3 then. Try halving it to 15k or so. If you have a spare LM324 it would not hurt to pop that in IC1 as well.

Will do, thanks. I did try swapping IC1 but will try again.

that thing sounds great to me man...maybe you might want to try 1n34 or some other ge diodes in the clipper secton to mellow it out a little bit.

these formant pedals are weird...the standalone fuzz on them all is nothing special..probably best on the eh talking pedal, and worst on the ludwig phase II (tho the colorsound vocalizer's fuzz is pretty rude, too).

FWIW, your clip sounds great (as does your playing)

this is mine:

mine is bone-stock to the "original" components as listed other than 240k resistors instead of 220's.

glad, either way, you got it going.

If your bypassed sound is clean, then you're getting way more fuzz than I am. I understand that this is not meant to be a killer fuzz unit but I'm not getting ANY fuzz at all no matter where the pots are set to. The sound I'm getting is similar to when a Q-Tron+ starts to clip.

[this sound clip]

i was having similar issues with my build...all the voltages seemed right, but it just wasn't "quacking" right.
i resoldered all the connections...no help. tried swapping out ic1 with another lm324...that did the trick.

the fuzz is not really fuzzy like you expect it to be...it's more like smoke and lazer beams...the fuzz just helps give it a little more canvas to work on.

on mine, the depth control is crucial..if you have it up all the way, the whole effect won't work right..some of the settings on the switch are more vocal than others...i particularly like position two.

try turning the depth down and while playing, bring it up a little at a time..if should start to trigger.. too much depth, and it sounds almost like a flanger that's stuck mid sweep.

hope that helps mate.

I did swap out the LM324's but with the same results. It quacks/vocals/vowels just fine and as expected but I'm not getting fuzz like this sound clip.

Also, don't forget max fuzz is fully counter-clockwise, not clockwise like we are used to. A more accurate description of the the control would probably be "Clean".

Yes, I understand that but I'm am not getting any "fuzz" at all. It's more of a slight clipping/signal overload. I listened to the sound clips over at FSB and I'm not getting anywhere near the level of fuzz I heard. All that being said, the rest works perfectly. 

Decided to go back and verify all values and voltages today and as far as I can tell everything is spot on except no fuzz. If someone could at least tell me how much fuzz I should be expecting from this project that would be a start, thanks.

Bump.