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Well this just made my week

I got my summer builds ordered today (10 boards should keep me busy for a while) and anxiously awaiting a few of the 'Coming Soon' to go pre-order as well.

Been luring here for a while now... Nice place you guys have here. 

I'm planning my next round of builds, and I'd like to ask for some wisdom on offboarding my pots and switches before I start ordering parts.

I've built a number of BYOC kits and a couple MBP boards doing everything pretty much as the instructions direct.  This includes using PCB mounted pots and swtiches, which in turn provide a mounting of sorts for the PCB so that it doesn't float.

I've found myself not quite fond of the 125 and 1590B builds as much for a couple reasons.  First, they get a bit cramped.  Second, and this is purely aesthetic, but I quite like having my input/output/DC jacks on the top of the pedal.  It makes for much easier setup on my board, despite the 1590B with side mounted jacks and the 1590BB with top mounted jacks taking up, essentially, an equal size footprint.  I'd prefer to not have jacks on the side, simply put.

This brings me to two dilemmas.  Firstly, if I'm building in 1590BB enclosures, I have a little more flexibility in terms of placement of the pots.  Being that the box is wider, using PCB mounted pots would cluster the pots/knobs very closely together wherever I place the board inside.  Same goes with switches.  For example, I'm getting ready to build another Double Flush trem pedal.  My first go-round in the 1590B went fairly well, but I think I can do a better job next time around.  A friend likes the one I already built, so I think I'll give it to him when my new one is done.  If I use PCB mounted pots inside a 1590BB, I'd have to drill the enclosure such that the knobs would be very close together when there's much more space I can utilize.

Along with this, some of the new builds I'm planning for this next go-round call for SPDT or DPDT switches to be mounted directly to the PCB.  As with the pots, I'd like to move these to a more ideal location in the enclosure.

I'm not horribly worried about using solder lug pots and running wire to the PCB.  While the holes are bigger than standard pads, I can still make a connection fairly easily, I think.  The switches, on the other hand, are another story.  The build guides actually call for a solder lug switch to be mounted directly to the PCB, which I presume will have much larger holes.

This leads me to my first question.  What are some techniques I could use to offboard these components and still make a clean job of soldering the wire to the larger holes?  I'd imagine I could strip off an extra length of wire, fold it on itself so there's a larger diameter wire to fit the holes, but I don't know if this would introduce other issues.  Perhaps I should just leave well enough alone .  I'd like to make some of these builds fit my tastes a bit more from an aesthetic perspective, though.  Advice, pictures, anything, would be most appreciated.

Next, as a consequence of offboarding my pots and switches, I need a new way to mount the PCB to the enclosure without making a complete mess of things.  I'm fairly particular with tidyness inside the enclosure.  As I'm sure some of you will understand, it's a pride in the work thing.  I like the look of a clean install.

On some boards, particularly those I've bought from BYOC, there are mounting holes that accept a pin/clip standoff with adhesive base.  On these boards, I'm set.  I have standoffs ready to go.  Most of the MBP projects I'm about to undertake, though, don't have these holes.  I've been looking, but have yet to find a good standoff that will clip to the side of the board, or otherwise suspend it somehow so that it doesn't just float in the enclosure.

I'm curious, if anyone does this sort of thing, what methods produce a clean-looking and secure mount?  Again, pics, advice, etc would be fantastic.

I think I've got about a dozen projects lined up for the next few weeks/months.  A couple dirt boxes and a compressor from BYOC, a switcher from Beavis, and probably 8 or 9 MBP builds that I'll be ordering as soon as the Snarkdoodle is back in stock.

Thanks guys... I'll appreciate any advice anyone can impart.

-ImpossiblyFunky

Hi Madbean,

Thanks for the insight.  This, along with some other things I've been reading this weekend are encouraging me to change course a bit.  The DBD is going to be a challenging build as it is, so I think I'm going to just do it stock.  I've read some things about the AuquaBoy Deluxe and it looks like that's going to make for a great build.  I'll be the first in line to snag one of those when you have boards for sale.

-ImpossiblyFunky

Hi guys,

I've done some searching around the boards for this, but didn't come up with much.  I'm getting ready to build up a Dirtbag and would like to include a mod to allow the delay to trail off after the effect is disengaged.

I'm curious if this is possible, if it's been done, and if anyone might have any suggestions on how to go about doing it? 

Any input is very much appreciated.

-ImpossiblyFunky