Messages

Never mind, please remove post.
Thanks

Moved it to open discussion.

THX much.  It's the switch.
Appreciate the reply.

It does.  That's what I've been looking for; somewhere that the LED itself or the wire that connects it to the PS jack or board is touching something else.  Since it worked before, and for a while too, I eliminated a wiring mistake as a cause, unless of course, it was wired so as to be grounding against something else.
I assumed a bad joint would be intermittent, a bad LED wouldn't light at all, etc.  I'd hoped that a bad switch would manifest in other ways but all the connections are solid, all the potential spots for grounding are covered in plastic - nothing exposed or touching.  I can only guess that the 3PDT switches we buy today aren't old time Carling quality and that somehow, although not being used, moving it around or maybe a loosened pole during soldering worked itself into a failure.  I dunno.  Like I said, the pedal works and sounds glorious.  Maybe I should not worry about, it's not like I can't tell when the fuzz is on .  It's that damn anal retentive side that makes me want to spend $6 on a new switch and $8 to ship it.
I was hoping that it's (only) a grounding issue, not some other weird possibility.  Oh well.
Thanks Darren, much appreciated.

Hello all. Been a while since I built/played so I'm afraid I've forgotten some things that used to seem so obvious.  Apologies if this is one of them.  I built a Pastyface a while back. It didn't sound right with my rig at the time so I stored it for a couple of years. I just got a different setup so I broke it out to see if it'd be better for what I want now and it definitely is.  It sounds great and works just as it should.  I use a pos ground cable (red) with a Carl Martin (Cioks) power supply.  The pedal works and sounds as it should, all controls function properly.  The LED however doesn't go off whether it's switched on or off.  When I built the pedal and used it before storage, the LED worked as it should.  What am I missing?
Thanks in advance

Hi All.  A couple of years ago I built a Pastyface to the Soulbender spec W/OC76s.  I added a couple of outboard contrls like Bias and a Pregain pot - it's always been a great unit.  It's first in line after the Weener and gets all the juice it needs... loves the placement and gets along with every guitar except the new one.  I just built a new Strat with a set of '64 SCs.  It too sounds great and works well with every effect... except the Pastyface.  The problem is odd, at least to me.  It sounds great at pretty much every setting but when playing in the upper registers, the B and E strings don't have the strength of the other strings.  Only the B and E and only above the 7th fret.  The tone is there but it's as if it isn't boosting/overdriving those notes - and only those.  All the other pedals don't have any issues with it.  If I put a Rangemaster in front - no troubles, alone though, weak up top.  I'm wondering what to do to increase the range up top to give me a little more oomph with the high notes.  Whaddaya think?.

Got it, thanks guys!!

Hi Scruff.  It's the fidelity I'm thinking about.  If not just plopping it on top of the other, how would I do it?  I understand running two in series with the other things for a longer delay time but I'm curious about ways to improve the depth of the delay tone...

First the qualifier... I love delays, the more watery the better and I have a few including a TTE.  While I'm building the Zero Point I was thinking I'd like to try some mods on a BBE Two Timer I bought a while back.  I often stack OpAmps - is there anything to stacking the Coolaudio 3205 chips?  How about anything else - has anyone ever modded the Two Timer?
Thanks

That's my thought.  I use pretty much all the cut now, I'd think it'd get mushy.  I guess there's only one way to find out...

Once I swapped ground pins - worked great, sounds great too.
Question though; Torchy's layout has the option for a 100n vs the 10n.  Anybody use the 100n?  Any difference in tone?

Wow - I'm lookin' at it.  I see it, but it doesn't make sense cause it's an OC44, right?
Learn sumpin' new every day..

Just looked at it again, and there's the.... wait for it....  "of course it is" moment.

Oh what fools we mortals be.


As always, thanks Scruffie, Frank

With an OC44?
That explains why it doesn't power up.  I've never used an OC44 in a negative ground circuit...what am I missin?
How'd you wire it Scruff?
Like this?

If not ... would you mind PM'ing me your wiring scheme?
Thanks, Frank

...These two things?
Nothing.
Anybody make a Java using this layout?

The tilted halo getter, two crimps and the hole near the ribbed plate look Mullard.  Not sure about the uneven flashing though.  I can't see for certain if there's a seam along the top; is there?  With the rest, that'd be a good indicator.  That said, my experience with Mullards relabeled IEC has been mostly 12AT7 and 12AU7.  I'm no expert though, just have a pretty large Mullard collection.  What's the other writing you mention - anything like I61 or I63, or a 5 digit code starting with a letter?
Either way, the real question... how's it sound?