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What are you gonna do with all of those? Also you build and sale?


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I'm going to be selling most of these hopefully. I've designed them for a 125B and the top mounted jacks connect to the top of the boards, then there is 6 cables going from the board to the foot switch board. Ive also got 3PDT boards and optical bypass boards so I'm make a mixture of them.

Finished up some more this evening. I've done 5 of each.



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Damn, that looks like a full time job right there.


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With the amount of time it's taking to get everything done, this is like a full time job with 20 hours overtime on top

Sorry to hear about the job loss man, that's rough. Hope the new career works out well.

Looks like you've got some good stuff to keep you busy while you figure it out

Fingers crossed it does. At the moment we have just entered consultation for my base. In the UK, because there is more than 100 employees we need a minimum of 45 days for that. Although yesterday they just put a lot of flights in all through winter, so I'm hoping that they decide to keep the base open. The last thing that I want is to get a job where i actually have to work for a living!

Managed to build 5 of each ABY switcher (each board is currently missing 1 capacitor), the Hog Roast and Don't Eat Yellow Snow. Still need to do the Beefcake and Silly Face. I'll get one of them done tonight, possibly both.

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Diablochris - those board layours are crazy! I love how you have got all the passive components horizontal, can't even imagine how long that must have taken! Have you built any of them up yet?

AlanP - I had absolutely no idea you could do that! I'll give it a go tomorrow

Good news and bad news. Bad news, I've just been told that my airline is closing it's base at my airport as part of the wider redundancies that they are making, which means that after 15 years, I'm out of a job. On the plus side, there is a career that I've always liked the look of, so I'm in the process of updating my CV and applying for it as they are currently recruiting. Every cloud, silver lining and all that.

Good news, my new boards have arrived today! I changed the pads from a wired SPDT switch to board mounted ones on 2 boards from the previous batch. Luckily I didn't need to move any components around so I can still use the original solder paste stencils. Managed to get the 2 ABY designs built up, they need 1 capacitor each (as i forgot to order them), the switches, LEDs and the SMD DIP switch on the back soldered. For one of the LEDs I've gone for a bi-coloured one to make it look neater. I'll get the DAM Meathead, the silicone fuzz face and the 2 reworked boards built up tomorrow evening.

30 of the enclosures will be marked up and drilled tomorrow as well, so I'm slowly getting there.

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I've managed to get a few more designs done. I've got 2 ABY switchers, one has a Klon buffer and the other has a Cornish buffer, and both buffers are switchable. The components are mounted on the same side as the switches, and I had to create a Eagle part for the SMD DIP switch on the back. It would have been easier to use a TH one but after working out the measurements, I'm pretty sure it would have been slightly too high.

I've also done the layouts for a DAM Meathead, a silicone fuzz face (I used TH transistors so i can experiment with which ones I prefer), and the Platinum Alpaca which is a modified Alcapulco Gold. Most of the layouts I've seen put the gain pot at the input, which only has the same effect as as rolling the guitar volume off, so I've placed the gain pot onto IC1 to change the amount of the gain in the IC produces, and I've also included a tone know to try and increase the amount of treble the pedal produces.



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When you get a few design rules in your head, the boards are quite easy to design, especially when the layout starts clicking together well. I would love to see some of your designs!

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Hey guys, it's been a while since I've done any building. Hope everyone is well!

A while ago I started building for friends of friends again and it took the enjoyment out of building. Again. Long story short, my last day at work was the 20th March and it's looking like I maybe furloughed until October, so I've picked up the guitar again and I've really been enjoying it. Decided I needed some new pedals (I've been using the HX Effects recently and it's amazing!), so I've been designing a few new boards.

They are all designed for a 125B and have pads for top mounted jacks, which allows for 6 wires to go from the effect board to the foot switch board. Ive got foot switch boards for optical bypass and I'm about to send the files off to get the 3PDT footswitch boards made.

They are:
AM Radio - Lofo Mofo
Hog Roast - MB Bacon Bits (my Blackstar HT5 loves that pedal!)
Don't Eat Yellow Snow (Snowjob - I miss that pedal)
Dirty Ego - Clarke Gainster
Fuzzy Wuzzy - Maestro MFZ-1

I've also got the boards designed for 2 ABY pedals. They both have switchable buffers, one has a Klon buffer and the other has the Cornish buffer. The components are on the top of the board along with the foot switches, and I've got a SMD DIP switch on the back so the buffer is switchable. Had to design the Eagle part for it as I think a TH one would sit too high for the back plate to fit. Last night I finished up a silicon fuzz face. Never managed to get into fuzz, but I'm hoping that it may help me close to ZZ Top tones.

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I'm thinking about getting a Mooer Drum Machine for my acoustic setup, and I was just wondering if anyone had any experience with it.

Also, does anyone have any pictures of the guts of the pedal? Kinda wondering if I could rehouse it into my acoustic multi pedal.

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Now you've said about the type of powder maybe being an issue, I'm a bit worried. I've got no idea on the powder that I'm using as a few years ago, I phoned a powder coating place asking if they wouldn't mind selling me 1kg of powder (I figured it would be cheaper then ordering it online). The owner told me they has a massive pile of powders loaded up onto crates that they were throwing out and I was welcome to help myself. Managed to grab around about 400kg of powder for the cost of some beers as a thank you, the only issue is I've got no information on what type of powder that it is, only the colour! Hopefully the powder works fine with the labels!

For the printer, I'll be using my Epson inkjet for the normal every day printing stuff, and the laser for labels only I think, so hopefully the toner cost shouldn't be an issue. The printer is £130, genuine cartridges cost about £50 each so it would be cheaper to buy another printer! It's crazy! There are compatible ones that are much cheaper though, but if I use it just to print the labels on, hopefully it will be ok cost wise. I'm thinking this way I'll be able to adjust the settings easily to get the best label quality possible. Like I said in a previous post, my local printing place isn't that good and charge me £2 a sheet, so the costs soon mount up there!

The weather is looking good for tomorrow so I'm hoping to be able to finish painting up all the enclosures then, and then get on with labelling them during the week.

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Bio77, that yellow one near enough looks screen printed! Looks amazing! I'll be trying the hair drier technique shortly!

I've finally got some spare time so managed to paint up a load of enclosures the other day. I'm was hoping to paint the rest of them up today but it's raining so hopefully I'll get them done Sunday morning (work and weather permitting). I'm not happy with my local printing place, they use one of the default settings on their printer for the prints, and wont let my give them a USB stick with the files on and instead want to photocopy the designs, but because I've only got plain printer paper, it loses some of the quality. I've found a 4 colour Samsung laser printer quite cheap so I'm tempted to get that and then be able to experiment at home more easily.

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So, I saw this come up on a Facebook group and wondered if it's (a) possible and (b) easy to do?

I'm intrigued and want to buy one just to mod and try it out!

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I saw a couple of reviews that said that. I noticed that the sell the paper and glue on their own as well so probably worth just sending them a quick email.

Hopefully they sort it out quickly for you though

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Bio77 - That transfer looks fantastic! How did it turn out when the glue marks were cleaned up?

I've just finished drilling a bunch of enclosures for some builds and I'm going to get them painted up in the next few days. I'm going to paint up some old scrap enclosures to be able to test the decals on as well, and going to try a few different techniques to hopefully find one that works well for me. I'm also going to have my decal sheets printed at a different shop to see if they can get more toner onto the decal.

Bio77 - thanks. That was my best one. Out of the 3 enclosures they were all close to perfect, I did that at the same time as the red enclosures above. Also, the green enclosures turned out well, but there is a very very very faint line where the decal was. Picture of it is below.

Fair.child, that enclosure looks great. What method did you use for it?

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I agree, it looks amazing when it works well. I've attached a picture of one of my Dreamtime enclosures below, interestingly, it doesn't have any of the issues of the red enclosure despite being done exactly the same way.

My thoughts with the iron, could work really well on bare enclosures, although I wouldn't put one near a powder coated, or any type of painted one for that matter. If you redo it on a bare enclosure with the iron, I'm really interested to see the results when it's done!

I still haven't had time to paint any more enclosures up. I'll get my drilling point tutorial done in the next few days and I'll use that template to mark and drill another 15 enclosures. I would have got it finished sooner but my company have decided it's a good idea to make me work 34 hours in 3 days, 1 day on call then another 10 hour day.  The joys of working at the airport! The first template I've made is working fantastically well for 15 enclosures that I'm halfway through marking up. I'm planning on painting up a fair few scrap enclosures as well to do more testing with the decals on them.

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I really like those transfers, they look great. On the bottom one I think Where it's slightly patchy makes it look better because of how the artwork looks. What I mean by that is that the patchy bits work well with it.

I've had a thought, if the hair dryer isn't that great, what about a hot air gun (like the type used for stripping paint). It will chick out a lot more heat then a hair dryer. I'll be trying that soon.

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