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No worries on the switches. The ones listed were sold out at Smallbear when I ordered parts but in the end I am happy having them as clipping switches on my Kingslayer.

Great design on the board BTW, sounds great! Worth the wait.

This build was bugging me mainly because the switches were too tight in the layout causing grounding issues with the input jack (you can see two-sided tape under it in the original gutshot). I decided the fat and thick mods were kind of fire-and-forget anyway so I got a new enclosure without the switches and used internal SPDTs for the mods. Glad I did. So much cleaner inside and the chrome enclosure is a nice touch.





I ended up re-housing my Kingslayer in the original enclosure so now I have two nice Klones. Time to A/B these guys.

I put together this video when I built my Sunking II and tested out a few diodes. I didn't do the clipping option just one set of diodes. Spoiler: I liked the 1N270 and 1N34A the best. Going to go with the 1N270.

3mm LED (~1.5 Vf)
1N4148 Si (.559 Vf)
1N34A Ge (.265 Vf)
1N5818 Shockley (.131 Vf)
AN306 Ge (.193 Vf)
1N270 Ge (.220 Vf)
Japanese White Ge (.213 Vf)

Wow these worked out great. Perfect fit and very low profile. What to do with 48 extras, hmmm...

How about these?

http://amzn.com/B007QAJST6

I don't need 50 but $6 shipped. Would be using them for Thick and Fat on the Kingslayer II.

I have a build that has options I don't think I will use often and would like to replace the SPDT with internal toggles. Jumpers are one option but has anyone done it with proper switches and if so what are they? I know a few commercial pedals have onboard switches but don't know what to look for.

Small Bear Topmay TMCF07 5mm Box, .68 mf - 1 mf

http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=896

Looks good!  Really need to start on mine.  What do you think of the Fat and Thick mods?

Can't really hear a difference yet on thick. I think fat might have blown the dinky speaker on my Blackstar HT-1R practice sampe 

Not my best build but sounds fantastic. I had some grounding issues it gets tight with the switches. Ribbon cable was too flimsy considering all the hookups so I ended up useing thicker wire for the jacks and DC which cluttered it up a bit. Sounds great and love the enclosure from PPP.

Didn't do the clipping option. I have a ton of diodes to test with but have some old germaniums in there for now.

Are they all linear or is the volume pot audio taper? Most signs point to all linear but want to be sure before I order parts.

Cool video. Semi-related.  What size is the nut on the 1/4" jacks?  I want to order a socket for fixed wrench for those as I currently use pliers and it's no fun.

I have the same issue with all clippers lifted and gain cranked.  No biggie as I'd never crank the gain past noon.

A couple of things I'd like to verify.  I have LEDs in D8 and D9 and they and not lighting unless the gain is pretty high or I strum REALLY hard.  Definitely a higher threshold than I have seen on other circuits.

EDIT: Scratch the part about the opamp distortion.  This thing has a heck of a lot of output and was saturating my preamp and that's what I was hearing.

Thanks all for the complements.  Glad I had the ribbon cable for this build.  It made things a lot easier.  Plus it reminds of Atari

I used 1N34A, 1N914, and socket red LED.  Sounds great and I'm really a fan of Madbean boards now.