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finding a volume loss with this pedal, not sure if its the bias knob or not. did the sola sound version and replaced R14 with a 20k instead of 10K but it still never meets unified volume..

Simple question:
How would i go about making the trim pot in the Pastyface into a external bias Pot? it might just be as easy as a 500k linear or Log pot, but i just want to make sure i don't burn out my germanium transistors.
Thanks!

So i own a Strymon Timeline now and a DMC-3 midi controller. im looking to build a tap tempo for it so i i can make life easier. Here's what Strymon says about the tap tempo:

"Many of you have asked us which external TAP tempo switches we recommend be used along with our TimeLine delay machine pedal. While we cannot recommend any products in particular we can tell you that the TimeLine will work with any external TAP tempo switch as long as the switch is designed with a single pole, double throw (SPDT) type switch that switches the TIP between the SLEEVE (ground or 0VDC) to the RING (5VDC).

If you are unsure whether or not your TAP tempo switch provides these specs we kindly ask that you please contact the manufacturer of that switch for more information."

so from that i need a stereo 1/4", and spdt momentary switch.
then i hook up the Sleeve to the middle pin, and the tip and ring to opposite sides, correct?
also, is it possible for me to just use a spst momentary and have the Ground to 1 side and the Tip and Ring have diodes towards the other side? the spdt i have right now is pretty loud to stop on.

Thanks!
Rawk~

i know JHS has a bad reputation in the DIY world, but i was wondering if anyone had actually traced this little guy? i know its a simple Bass Fuzz, but i cant find exact values for the components anywhere, except on FSB Devi said the output cap was .1uf and the transistor was a MPSA13. also i saw a picture on their old website of a gut shot and there was a 100k resistor. guessing that was from the 9v to the drain of the Mpsa13.

so if anyone has this pedal could they open it up and tell me what the input capacitor is at least? thanks
- Rawk

i was searching different websites for diode options for a Klon clone, and one website said the closest forward voltage drop diodes to the original Klon were the OA91 and 1n277's. anyone used or tried these out before? i have a few 1n277's coming along with 1n34a's and 1n60's. already use bat41's and just looking for something smoother.

the 33ohm resistor is the part thats getting hot, not the IC, just to clarify.
still not getting any delay..

today i build the Sea Urchin delay pedal.
it has a dry singal coming through without any problems, but there's no delay.
ive checked, and double checked all the capacitors orientation, and they're all correct.
the voltage regulator is a big, Lm7805c.
also, the pt23999 is getting hot on the bottom half of it.
i cant find voltages for this on the website or anywhere else so i have nothing to compare to. but hopefully you guys can help me out.

heres the Voltages im getting.
input voltage- 9.5v

PT23999:
1-5v
2-2.49v
3-0
4-1.9v <-problem
5-4.97v
6-2.94v
7-352mv
8-4.62v
9-4.81v
10-.782v
11-2.49v
12-2.49v
13-2.49v
14-2.48v
15-2.49v
16-2.49v

Tl072
1-3.6
2-3.5
3-3.5
4-0
5-3.5
6-3.5
7-3.44
8-7.02v

Reg:
In-6.9v
G-0
out-5v

thanks

okay cool. i happened to order a 2nd tc1044 so we'll see if that fixes it.
how warm is "warm"? cause maybe i was freaking out about nothing

edit: no it gets burning hot the second i plug it in..  do you have any other suggestions?

yep.. IC3 just blew :/ better order another one..

whats the best substitute if i cant get an icl7660scpa?
i can get an icl7660cpa, and a whole lot of other ones without the S.
or the Max1044scpa or just another tc1044scpa?

okay so now the bypass works great, and when i turn it on it sounds great. but there's kind of a high pitch whine sometimes? it sounds like a tv's turned on (without a show on). if that makes sence. im guessing thats the tc1044scpa?

also, ic2 isnt getting hot, but now IC3 is. maybe it was ic3 that was getting hot this whole time. any more things i should check?

oh no.. im missing C14.. but it still works? isnt that just a capacitor to control the bass/highs? or would that be whats causing this?

yeah im getting 18.2 volts on pin8 of ic2. without the ic 1 and 2 in.

are you talking about r29 and r30? yes they're both Red,Violet,Orange, Gold (27k's)
(R17's 27k too, but i dont think thats the one youre talking about.)
and yeah im getting 4.76V on the supply rail. kinda strange isnt it?
it sounds amazing when its on. maybe ill just leave it on all the time.

edit: found a bad connection on C2. lemme go solder it back on and see if that helps

so i just recently build the Sunking V3 with the buffer instead of truebypass and im already in love with the tone. makes everything sound really big and full.
but im finding that Ic 2 is getting really warm. i havent blown a chip yet, but i dont want to have it happen in the middle of a show. also, my bypass signal is alot lower then my when i plug my guitar straight into the amp. what could be causing ether of these?

heres the V's im getting

Voltage in: 9.51v

Ic1:
1-4.76
2-4.76
3-3.8
4-0
5-4.79
6-4.67
7-4.67
8-9.51

Ic2:
1-4.74
2-4.79
3-4.8
4- -4.06
5-4.8
6-4.8
7-4.84
8-12.94

Ic3:
1-9.51
2-5.09
3-0
4- -2.04
5- -4.05
6-4.88
7-6.19
8-9.51

i know that pins 4 and 8 are off by half of what they should be on IC2, and that so are 4 and 5 of IC3.
the orientation of C19 between Ic1 pin 4 and Ic3 pin5 has the correct orientation. but whats making it half the negative voltage it should be?

what also could be wrong with the bypass buffer? when i turn the volume up in bypass on the pedal it turns the overall volume up, but then when i engage the pedal its too loud.

using tc1044scpa, tl072cp's and BAT41 for the clipping diodes.

also, any tips on getting it in a 1590b with a battery?