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Hi

Congrat's man...

There are some good choices you got there- Here is another one in two versions

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QX_GYuW-Mkg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zj8bsn2fwzE&feature=related

Have a fanstastic day

/Per

Hi

This is an interesting question that I like to learn more about. So I give my comment just to keep discussion going... free to comment and criticize...

A year ago I re built my pedal board. I did it because I had problem with both hum and noise At the same time I also built three pedals – one looper, one FatPants and one "transformer". I think the two crucial parts was the looper and the "transformer", but they become a bit of the lead star how I will build my pedal in the future, if you guys not tell me otherwise.

In my post – http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=4476.0, I show the looper inside, this:



I think this was important for the grounding om my board. It is the connection point between two loops and connect in and out. The shielded wire is not because it is necessary, its for grounding. I had them before and it had a good shield. All ground wires are connected to the horizontal wire just underneath the purple and the green at the bottom end. Another important part is that the box is only grounded in one place, the in jack on the left through the spring washer, that gives a real good connection. All the other jacks are insulated and are only connected in one point.

The other important part was to kill the suspected ground loop between my pedal board and my rack with POD, amp and mixer. I got my hands on a Lehle transformer and used it. From start I was going to build a small op amp driver in front of it. When I tried it it worked great in passive mode. I also added a direct out and can switch the output phasing.


   
Really neat little box, always in.

As I was on the go I also built a FatPants booster, really good pedal use it both to push my amp and pedals and to boost soloing. A must have pedal.





Here you can also see the same construction as for the looper, one grounding point to the chassis, the other is insulated. The grounding point for all internal parts is the little black wire below the foot switch. Connects the ground from power supply jack, from the in and out and the grounding from the FatPants.

Don't know it its a coincidence of my rearrangement or if this was a key to killed more or less all noise and hum in my setup. I think/whant to belive that the main parts is the grounding inside the looper and my Lehle-transformer. The FatPants was just for fun...;-).

//Per

Hi
Again, thanks for all the replies and engagement in this... Big thanks. Also sorry for a late response, my work make me a bit antisocial at this moment. But, not less interested in your opinion around this subject. My conclusion is that 10 days in not enough...

dwstanford, you hit a point close to our plan at this moment. Where did you find your big moments when you toke your trip from New Orleans to Chicago. What you describe is something close what we plan. If you have more detailed it would be awesome.

Also this about great guitar shops is interesting, like Gruehn's. Is there shops that is a must. My travel mate will probably kill me, absolutely not interested in stomp boxes and guitars... how anyone can be that... and how I can chose a travel companion no interested is another question, probably because I want to see more than guitar shops and music in general
But for sure there is no doors closed to different routs. Austin, how could I forget about that for example... That's a good example that could change our road map. I have written down your suggestions and it will be a part of our plan.

So just add in... I'm reading and take notes.

Again, thanks for your feedback

//Per   

Hi

... and thanks for the replays. Good suggestions. Austin, why didn't I think of that. Seen so many music videos recorded from there. I will bring it up with my travelmate. And if it wasn't for him I could stay in New Orleans the entire time or the close neighborhood, but he has restless legs...
Mardi Gras will probably be to early, not for the southern regions but for Chicago. As coold as in Sweden. Jazz festival would be cool. No doors closed.

It does not have to be the large scenes. Small places, "unknown" musicians with the feel and the genuine is as important... Hoping to come to some of the Chicago Blues club's, ea Buddy Guy, would be fun.

Again, thanks.
//Per

Hi

Yes, I know... a bit off topic, but this is my favorite place on the net and you always come up with great ideas, so I thought I try to use your local knowledge here... Me and a friend of mine planes to go to US next year, probably around March/April. The thought is to either fly to Chicago and stay there for a couple of days. Then rent a car and travel down to like St Louis, Memphis and Nashville. Back to Chicago and off back home. Alternative is to fly to New Orleans, stay for a couple of days and drive up to Chicago  and pass like St Louis, Memphis and Nashville on the way. From Chicago then  back home. We probably stay for about 10 days totally.

...or... and here were you come in... What is a must to experience when we go there? Places, music, attractions... The main idea of the trip is to listen to music – blues, rock, jazz, county... we like it all (maybe in that order;-)) and we want the real thing. The exact places is totally open but in this neighborhood. We will also do other things to experience US and the places we visit, but the music is the red line. The travel plan is rough and open for ideas.

Please let us know your suggestions and favorites...

//Per 

Hi

Fantastic, so many amazing builds and nice guitars... inspiring. Got exited so I have to show you mine too.

Made this 2008 as a therapy project (do something else then work...) starting a year earlier. I found out that there was a flood of parts on ebay. After some investigation and calculation I found out that it wasn't that more expensive to just pick the parts from selected manufacturers for a top notch quality. I decided to build the guitar of my dreams, a my Parto-Caster 57 all with my spec's- I have actually enclosed my specification just for fun... and off cause some pic's of the result.
I felt it was a major risk project so I talked and interviewed the manufacturers (guess if they was tired of me...). It could end up with a beautiful guitar that was unplayable, looking good in the wall. It become my real player and I have sold all the others of my guitars except this one and my L6 Variax (more or less only for the acoustic and some Les Paul).

A peace that I never going to leave... enjoy. And thanks that you posted your beauties...

//Per

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/26726734/Spec of my Part-o-caster, 2007-07-09, FINAL.pdf (It's 4,5 M in size)

Hi

I do this with almost all my builds. Either mount the board direct or on a "carrier"...

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=911.msg5755#msg5755

Best //Per

Thanks for the answer bigmufffuzzwizz. Yes, exactly. That was what caught my interest. Have seen a lot of mod's on the RAT, but this was a bit more radical. However, I have never seen anyone who tried the SoulSonic mod or heard a demo of it.
I am asking because I do not want to undress my RAT from its basic sound, I really like my RAT. Accept the theory completely, it make sense. Will check the beavis mod to but I think at least parts of it is what I seen earlier, basically on the same track - to change the filter fq range. Someone actually just cut the 470R resistor out... Will be some more testing.
I have already got the components to make the modification, but it's the lazy part of me that asks the question, to do it right the first time...
Is also going to do some more clipping option, but that is "easier" to do and a different story.

Thanks //Per

Hi
Turn to you as you are my knowledge base...

I run into this mod made by SoulSonic, http://soulsonic1978.tripod.com/illuminist/, for a RAT/Slow Loris.
Has anyone tried this and if so how was it? Will it still sound like a RAT?

My RAT is a bit muddy, would like it to clean it up a bit. But don't want to loose to much of the RAT-signature.

Thanks/ Per

Sorry, one word i did not check... lexicon, should be dictionary... Almost humour. So, I learnd two things today 

//Per

I think you ask because you noticed that my main language isn't English, try to test me... Yes, I needed to use a lexicon. So I learned something today too...  .

Anyway I use a hacksaw (think that what it's called... metal saw) and a file to smooth the edges. If it's more complicated work I use my Dremel Clone to grind to correct profile http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=200+Series. In most cases, just cut and smooth the edges, done.

In one project (an A/B switch with relays) I fix the bord a bit tighter due to the extra weight of relays and other circuits. I mounted a profile on top, a piece of 15 mm long L-profile "upside down" to be sure the board didn't accidentally come loose.

I'm goint to try Madbeans FatPants monted vertical later, by fixing the bord standing up. On profil in the bottom and one in the sidwall The foam pad's are isolating so there will not be any shot's.

Let me know if I was fuzzy in any way.
//Per

Hi
I will start to wish you all a good start of the new year.

I have been around on this forum for some time, but "under cover"... my favorite forum, right atmosphere and very creative. As an official member I thought I try to contribute in some way. So her is my contribution at this time.
Looked in a thread a while ago where there was a discussion about how to fix/mount the board in the box. Was supposed to reply there but could not find it again, so it will be in a new thread here.

Have used a method in those projects I have done with vero board layout, but it will work on ordinary boards as well. Its a fairly simple method – I have used aluminum strips with L-shape, 10x16 mm, cut in appropriate size. The length of the strip is the board width. The strip is fixed with double side foam cushion taped to the box wall. Same type is used to fix the vero or for instance Madbeans boards to the strip, as I'm going to do in my next project. If you don't want to use the full width of the box you can us another L-strip and fix that in the bottom of the box, then fix the L-strip to mount the board. There is many more ways of us it, its actually up to the application and imagination.     
I have used an L-strip from Alfer, www.alfer.com. It was 1 meter long, comes in different lengths. Bought it in our local hardware store. The cushions are from Tesa but I'm sure I've seen them from 3M, in pieces or as a strip. Mine are precut. The foam cushions really fix the board and the strip. At first it feels like it will come lose. After about ½ hour you will have to use the knife to bend it loose. The good thing is that you can cut it loose with a razor blade knife, don't need to bend it. Use the thumb to take away leftovers  and clean with ea acetone, good as new and ready to be used again.

Pros
-Stable and flexible fixation of the board
-Cut in the length you need
-Easy taking the board in and out
-Pot's can be mounted under the board (use the 16mm height), goes free underneath.
Cons
-If you have a box that is to low you get problems with cap's that is to high, ea el.lyt caps. They  need to lay down.

I did not succeed in adding photos in the thread so I link to Google Web album... the first, PIC1, shows  the box with the strips mounted. the second, PIC2 the board is mounted and the third, PIC3 shows the L-strip and the foam cushion that I used.




   
Hope it's useful for you. Take care...