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Good luck with recovery, every day is precious!

tweaked the circuit some for more variety in tones. The first version he has uses the nsl/vtl5c2 and the v2 he lists the 5c3

These do not change "tone". They are light dependent resistors, changing the gain of the second op amp stage. It's about getting maximum swing in amplitude.

I don't believe it matters all that much for this design. There is a trim pot in the second gain stage; it will help negate LED/LDR choice consequences.

Next time you order parts, buy a vactrol. They're expensive and it stings, but that buys the time and pita it takes to roll your own, gives you some better specs, they're nice and compact, and DIY vactrols can cause shorts. Remember it has to fit on the board when you're rolling your own. It's easy to make huge DIY vactrols but it's hard to make ones compact for boards expecting non-DIY versions.

Is it important that it's "click-less"? Or is a standard 3PDT stomp switch ok? If "true bypass" is the main concern, I can definitely show you and it is indeed easy.
If it has to be click-less, then you'll need either some logic ICs, PICs, transistors, and/or relays. Maybe part of the reason why responses aren't so helpful is because there are a few different ways to do true bypass without the standard latching stomp switch, but none of them are as simple as just wiring up a 3PDT. You have to be the one to pick a direction and go that route.

Sorry for the dead link to the AMZ page, here's the right page. This is the DPDT you mentioned. Not sure why you think it might not work. Using a microprocessor is the proper way for 2020, might as well go that route unless you want to learn how to use logic ICs and timing circuits like it's 1990. 1980? 1970? You will get no "vintage tone" from past technology in switching. Well, except for the vintage tone you get from Boss switching (basically, it can shave a little high end off the top).

Have you seen this?:

http://tech.thetonegod.com/switches/switches.html

Sorry if I sounded like a grumpy prick.

Why wouldn't you ask either this question:

"How is click-less (latch-less? quiet?) true bypass achieved?"

or:

"Does anyone know where i can buy something like the Mammoth Click-less True Bypass board?"

Instead you peppered your convoluted question with whiny demands and a condescending tone, and now it's been a few days and no one has responded.

3 seconds on the internet and i found this: https://moodysounds.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/clickless-true-bypass-instructions.pdf
also this: http://www.muzique.com/schem/bypass.htm

A fun, cheap DIY build would be the 20 W Tiny Giant amp from musicpcb.

+1

Schematics are like road maps. They have direction and routing, but aren't totally simple, linear things like those old pencil mazes on the back of your breakfast cereal box. Just like maps show major cities that are connected by a mess of roads, highways and railroads, schematics have major components (ICs, transistors) connected by a mess of conductors (wire), resistors, and capacitors. When you look at a schematic, try to determine what's a city and what's a highway. Don't get bogged down by component values, style (infinite ways to draw the same schematic), nationality/era (component symbols and value numbering styles can change). Don't let the myriad ways to show 'ground' or 'earth' or off-board wiring fool you. When you get used to that, you'll be doing what Jon is talking about, and most schematics will start to make sense, even if you don't know the specifics. Also, good ol' text books help. You can build a million Mad Bean boards and never learn a thing about electronics outside of soldering, and shopping for parts

Try searching for "from schematic to breadboard".

Resoldered everything like an ass, but now it sounds friggin' sweet.

Anybody have working voltages for the Bloviator? Sounded awesome on the damn breadboard...