Messages

I have an old toy ray gun. The only control it has, besides the trigger, is a fast/slow switch. And the barrel is clear with a red LED that lights up when you pull the trigger. But it sounds exactly like your video. Love the additional controls!

That WTF pedal sounds pretty cool, too. I never heard of it before. Wonder what's under the hood?

Thanks, alan. The wire is from ebay - teflon coated 22awg (don't recall the sellers).

Dub Dweller?!?! Where can I find more info about that?

Actually, I doubt the Dub Dweller even existed back when I originally populated those PCBs. Those are Cave Dweller v1.0 PCBs (yes, it was a while ago). I wired them both up to a breadboard to verify and iron out the dual setup, but never got around to actually boxing it up until recently. But, two different sounding delays in one box would be cool!

Images don't seem to be showing up for me.

Sorry, not sure what the problem could be. Try clicking on 'quote' and copy/paste the image URL to your address bar. I don't really know what I can try on my end, but I'm open to suggestions.

There is so much to learn on this one.  Thank you for sharing your knowledge once again. It has truly been missed. 
~Steve

Cheers, Steve!

You know... work tends to interfere with my personal interests. But I finally have the time for more DIY, now!

I'll try to do a demo video asap. Meantime, here is a little more of an explanation of how I did the switches...
I should also add that I used B10k for the Dwell pots, instead of B50k. With B50k, I was getting runaway feedback for more than half of the pot's rotation.

Cross Feedback DPDT toggle
For normal operation, the wiper of the Dwell pot for pcb1 is sent to pad 2 on pcb1, and the wiper of the Dwell pot for pcb2 is sent to pad 2 on pcb2.
For cross feedback, the wiper of the Dwell pot for pcb1 is sent to pad 2 on pcb2, and the wiper of the Dwell pot for pcb2 is sent to pad 2 on pcb1.

Series/Parallel DPDT toggle
For Serial operation, the signal path first goes through one of the delays, and the output of that delay goes to the input of the second delay.
For Parallel operation, the signal path is split to the input of both delays, and the output of both delays are mixed to the output.

Echo DPDT toggle
Each side of the DPDT replaces one of the two Echo pots.
To enable the Echos, the switch shunts pad 2 to pad 3.
To disable the Echos, the switch connects pad 2 to ground, and places 47k between pads 2 and 3.
Echo Pad 1 on both pcbs was left unconnected.



Of course, there may be other/better ways to do some of this stuff. So, please feel free to comment.
I think most of this could be applied to any pair of delay circuits. Doesn't necessarily have to be the Cave Dweller.

I've had these two Cave Dweller PCBs populated for a while (Rev.1). Finally found the time to box them up.

Knobs for time and dwell for each delay. The single echo toggle replaces the echo pots for each delay... turns the single repeat for both delays on/off simultaneously. The cross toggle does cross feedback... sends the feedback (dwell) from each to the other delay. The middle toggle switches between series and parallel operation.

I used a switching jack for a second output to be able to send each delay to separate mixer inputs. With nothing plugged into out2, both delays get mixed to out1.

I kinda rushed the waterslide decal, so the graphics look a little heavy handed. Goofed on the knobs, too. Pots are d-shaft, and the knobs turned out to have the 'd' rotated 180. But I still think the Cave Dweller is a cool sounding delay. And doubled up makes it even more fun to play!

Great looking build! Love the addition of the 3PDT-05 to allow for standard 9V supply voltage. I just got a Freekout PCB. Wish I saw your post before, so I could have ordered one of those at the same time. Thanks for posting. I'm looking forward to building this one!

On another matter... Skimming the ICL8038 datasheet and it looks like the ICL8038 is set up to only provide a sine wave to the AD633 in the Freekout. But, the ICL8038 appears to be capable of also producing square and triangle wave forms. Anyone ever considered modding this to add options for square and triangle? I gotta think the answer is 'yes,' but I would be interested to hear what folks think.

I was actually going to try the vibrato mode mod today! Is there anything more to it than removing R40? Sorry for the noob question.

Nope. That'll do it.

~ Charlie

Cool ramp idea, Brian! I'd be psyched to give it a try, but not sure I understand exactly how to wire it up. Can you maybe explain me better?

I'll probably have everything I need to get started on this some time next week, finally!

Thanks
~ Charlie

Gotcha

~ Charlie

Interested to hear how the vibrato mod works for you, ggarms.

I've done the phasefilter mod on an older small stone (CA3080, I think?). Don't recall any volume drop with that.

Still waiting for LM13700 and 2N5457, then I'll be good to go.

~ Charlie

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/StageFright/StageFright.pdf

Still waiting on some parts, but had a few ideas to try on the Stage Fright...

1. A shape switch (ramp up/down) - a pair of anti-parallel diodes in the LFO a'la Tremulus Lune.

2. A vibrato switch - lift R40.

3. Phase filter mod - divert cap to ground in a pair of stages to switch them from all-pass to low-pass filters.

4. Fast/slow switch for speed caps in LFO.

Anyone else tried any of these, and/or have any thoughts on if they would be worthwhile?

Any other mod ideas for the Stage Fright?

I was not planning to try toying with the CV input this time around, but I am planning to do the univibe caps.

~ Charlie

The JLI looks like a good bet, to me.

Here's a few tips on doing the Linkwitz mod that I recently added to my web page after getting some questions about the project via email...

The capsules are very small and easy to destroy in the process of attempting the mod. So, buy more than one.

An exacto knife, or other small razor-like blade, works well for cutting the trace between Term 2 and the capsule perimeter (ground).

The capsule's case is made of aluminum, so it's very nearly impossible to get solder to stick to it. But the back of the capsule is actually a very small circular circuit board with a ground trace running around the perimeter. The lip of the case covers that ground trace. It's possible to carefully cut a small notch in the lip of the case and uncover a small section of the ground trace.

I found it helpful and time-saving to simultaneously attach the wire at the same time you make the solder connection between Term 1 and ground, rather than soldering the connection first and then going back to attach the wire in a second step.

HTH
~ Charlie

Congrats, Alan! Lookin good.

39p for the clock cap has always worked fine for me. Yes, it allows higher freq to be achieved than is necessary or even useful, but it still gets down into the 60kHz region, too. Once I get it trimmed close to the factory spec numbers, I turn off my meter and trim it to where the hi/lo freq points just sound good to me. I trust my ears more than my meter.

I used to have an original ?Flange, but I sold it after I built the ADA. ~8o

~ Charlie

If it can not be switched off, I would always wonder what it's really doing for my sound. I might leave it on all the time, but I just like knowing what my clean, unaffected signal sounds like for reference.

~ Charlie