Messages

Thank you for the replies. I chose this forum because some can get so snarky.

I did have to run a jumper instead of trying to use the trace.

Sound is getting through now and the volume and toggle is having an effect, BUT the signal is very weak. The bypass signal is louder.

I'm going to re-check the wiring again. Thanks!

I know what you're saying, we're all about learning in these parts.

The input and output jacks need to be desired. The stereo goes on the input. If you're not going to use a battery, I'd leave the the third solder lug empty.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I missed your post. I'm wondering if the wiring looks weird because it's designed to run a PNP with a negative tip supply, so a standard DC 9v adapter can be used. Anyway, I'm so confused right now I honestly can't tell you what fixed it. Ha ha. If I think of it later I'll post. Thanks!

It's working.

Thank you for the replies. I chose this forum because some can get so snarky.

I did have to run a jumper instead of trying to use the trace.

Sound is getting through now and the volume and toggle is having an effect, BUT the signal is very weak. The bypass signal is louder.

I'm going to re-check the wiring again. Thanks!

What transistor came with the pedal? In the pictures, I don't see one.

I took it out while soldering. It's an OC76. The center lug of the volume pot was intermittent. The traces were torn off. I had to scrape the board to expose a trace and solder the lug to it on the component side. I thought I was going to burn stuff up soldering so I took the transistor out.

I'll start working on it again here in a little bit.

Thanks for the reply. I don't think so. When it was in the box it was. But I've been working on it with just the guitar in/out jacks installed in the box since this adventure started. I'm giving it a break for tonight.

I thought I burned something up by overheating with soldering iron, but it appears that isn't the case.

I have an unused Mad Bean Rangemaster board. But I don't have a non-boardmount pot. I'm not sure what my next approach will be tomorrow. I really need to get a better soldering iron.

Why would there be +7.5 volts (that is all the battery power) at the base of the transistor socket?

Well, here's proof I didn't build it. And I'm not claiming to be a solder jockey either. I'll post circuit pics next.

Maybe I will post a pic, but it is so sloppy. It's ugly too. Guy painted it to be a green mixed with gold color, but I doubt it turned out like he wanted. I don't want it to look like my work, LOL but guess it doesn't matter. Before I got into it the DC jack didn't work and it would cut in and out on battery. It's got torn traces and everything.

Does this question make any sense?

Ok, now I'm working on a BYOC Germanium Boost. If a trim pot gets fried, does it usually act as a short or open between terminals? The voltage at the trans base is staying the same with bias pot adjustment (it reads full battery voltage - 7.5 volts).

I bought it on Reverb from the guy who built it for cheap. Fixing it is more challenging than I expected.

Pedal is working fine. I was told the switch problem could be corrected by backing the nuts on the Allen screws off a little bit, but that wasn't the case. The switch is bad.

Thank you! I'll let you know how it goes.

This is really embarrassing. I was in my DOD FX90 delay attempting to correct the switch problem. Two of the flying leads to the PCB broke. They are both green. I found a photo online to get the correct terminals for each wire. I blew it. My pedal was lying in the opposite direction of the photo. I got them backwards.

One wire goes to the output jack, from the PCB. The other comes from the footswitch to the PCB.

Did I fry the chip?