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Can you tell me where I might want to check the voltages?  On all of the ICs?

either way here's some pictures.

So, I added a ground going from the board to the input jack, instead of it just being grounded to only the road rage.  Found a cold solder joint on the mod pot.  Still, problems when I screwed the pots in too tight. 

Taped the hell out of the board and the pots, added washers and what not between the pots and the enclosure and now it works.  If I had to guess I think it was the switch causing problems if it was screwed in too tight?

I am using the external plastic jack from small bear

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=666

So far I've only put electric tape under the pots so that the bottoms wouldn't be touching the board traces. I am fairly certain that no part of the board touches the enclosure, just the pots.

I'm wondering if the road rage has me confused about grounding.  I have the ground on the jack going to the ground on the road rage and to the sleeve of the input jack.  The sleeve of the input jack also goes to the ground of the footswitch (wired as per madbean's layouts).  The board's ground only goes to the output ground of the road rage. 

Perhaps I should connect one of the extra grounds on the board to something else?

I made and earlier thread http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=3887.0.

The problem was that the road rage was getting 9v in and nothing out with the regulator becoming extremely hot very quickly.

I figured the problem was with the road rage not passing the voltage at some point in the circuit. I bought a new regulator and charge pump, and a new board. I put the new board together and tested it before hooking it up to the dirtbag and everything checked out.

I hooked it up to the dirtbag board and all of a sudden it was not passing voltage.  I thought back to when it did work hooked up to my prototype box.  I remembered I had not had the overload Led/transistor hooked up yet at that point.  I took the board out of the box and it worked! 

I figured, because the LED was mounted to the board but was twisted a bit to fit in the hole of the enclosure it must have been shorting out somewhere.  I took it and the transistor off the board and it worked again!  I put a new LED in and had wires coming off the leads so it wouldn't short out against the enclosure or something and tested it again.  It worked so I put it in the box. 

Once it was boxed NOTHING.  I cut the LED wires and took out the transistor again and it still did not work. Unscrewed the pots and took the board out and it works again.

TL;DR.  For whatever reason it seems like the board will not receive power if the pots/switch are touching the enclosure.  Does this make any sense to anyone?

do you mean the EHX "company" logo? like this?



I'm pretty sure that is called "Skjald"

I checked again last night on a whim and was able to order one.  No worries though, I can't really think of anything less pressing than getting my 30th freakin' guitar pedal working

It says it's out of stock for me too

So, I noticed a mistake with the road rage board.  I realized that, for some reason, I had put D4 on the board, so I clipped it off and.... no change in the problem

ok so I tried touching up all of the solder joints and trying to find a solder bridge to see if that made a difference.  It didn't so I measured the voltages of the ICs

IC1 (LT1054IP)
2- 5.63
3- 0.00
4- 3.98
5- 4.05
6- 2.10
7- 1.42
8- 9.50

IC2 (7815)
1- 0.00
2- 0.00
3- 8.76

I noticed afterwards that IC1 started to become unseated so I tried measuring again to see if that made a difference.  I was getting little or no voltage on any of the pins then there was a spark, poof of smoke, cracked LT1054

So, I built a MN3005 Dirtbag.  I used a T0-92 style 78L15 from Small Bear instead of the T0-220 7815 kind specified in the build report.  I also subbed 1n914s in for the two 1n5817s at d1 and d2.

I used an LT1054 and made sure that the first pin was not connected to the board. I was mindful of the recent finding that the 15v and 18v pads were switched on it, and wired it correctly.  When I had the dirtbag hooked up to the breakout box, powered by a one-spot, it worked perfectly and I was able to bias it as well as socket caps in the c41 spot.

A few days later I boxed it up and was getting no signal at all.  I got out my DMM and found out that the Road Rage board was getting around 9v in, but no voltage at all coming out. The Dirtbag board also registered no voltage. I also noticed that the 78L15 was very very hot, enough so that it hurt to touch it.

I figured that the 78L15 I gambled on was the problem and ordered the T0-220 7815CT regulators from Mouser.  For good measure I got a new LT1054 and put in the correct 1n5817s.  The problem is the same though.  Still no voltage coming out and the regulator is too hot to touch.

I have no idea why this would be happening when it worked fine pre-boxing.  The only constant on the road rage is the electro caps and the 1n4001 at D3.

I sort of want to put a direct out onto my dirtbag build like the memory man.  If it's like the Deluxe Electric Mistress I have then there's just a wire coming from the tip of the input jack to the tip of the "direct out" jack so the signal is getting split up. 

I'm sure that causes impedance/tone suck problems so I figured I could just stick a small buffer in there, and power it with the extra unused tip on the DC jack that gets used for the battery snap on regular 9v pedals, and have the ground going to maybe the extra pads on PCB. 

Would this work out fine?  I'm using the taller 125-BB, would the jacks have room pretty much anywhere, instead of cramped on one side of the pedal like on some other builds?