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Cool, I figured it would be alright. Thanks for confirming.

The Runt has 2x 47R resistors. All I have is 33R and 10R in my stash. If I teepee these, will the 43R be good enough? I'm thinking it will, but I'd like to get a surefire reply lol

Thanks!

Sounds like what you need to do is make a new channel switcher with 2 outputs, one going to each amp.

If this is the same Hot Chilicon, I like it!

Watching your demo of the Lunar Fuzz atm lol

Seeing Scruffie's post about fuzzes made me want to ask this question, but I didn't want to hijack his post. What would be a good fuzz for someone who's not a big fuzz fan? I built a Zombii, but I don't like the wild fuzz tones that one makes.

I know I like the Musket, but I'm not a big fan of a normal Muff circuit. I like something that has more mids than the scooped Muff sound. I also like the Mojo Hand Crosstown Fuzz, which is a germanium/silicon Fuzz Face hybrid.

Anyway, any recommendations would be great!

I haven't read the Sea Urchin docs, so I'm not sure exactly what you're asking about.

I meant based on the picture that I posted in the original post (or the one a couple posts up).

On the Sea Urchin topic, there's a method for inserting an fx loop. It says to lift the R17 and connect that to the Send (which would be the orange wire connected to the tip in that first image, right?) and connect the return to the empty pad (which would be the blue tip wire?). If I wanted to use the on/off switch for the loop, could I keep the orange/blue wires connected to the dpdt, and connect the red wire that goes from the dpdt to the input's tip to R17 and connect the red wire that goes from the dpdt to the output tip to the empty pad (hopefully that makes sense)?

Coincidentally, I have a Delay project forthcoming that's made to work with the Taptation PCBs I'm releasing. You can build a sea urchin delay using the PCB, and it has an effects loop built into the project. Consider keeping your eye open for that.

How long until that project becomes available?

I've already ordered a taptation board from you and the kit from DIYSB. Will that one still work or do I need the new board you're gonna release?

So would something like this work? (My l33t photoshop skills in action lol)

Well I'd like it to affect the delayed signal only, that way the effects are just on the repeats and not the dry signal.

Is it possible to add this to a Sea Urchin project? I'd like to be able to enable/disable the fx loop with a toggle switch (on/off dpdt?).

As far as the blue section, I'm assuming the caps going to VR are some sort of filters

Good. Do you understand what KIND of filter that is?

Some sort of high/low pass filter probably?

These are questions that you could answer with reading, and you might know some of the answers already, but you also need to HEAR what they do, so, when you breadboard the circuit, answer them through experimentation.

Yeah, I'm not home at the moment but I'll definitely do some breadboarding when I get the chance.

and the resistor connected to the middle lug on the tone pot is limiting some of the filtering on C8?

Good again.

Now: What's the pot doing?

I have no idea lol. Just a guess: controlling the amount of input signal that goes through the caps and the VR section?

... I want to make something that's mine and not just a "put these parts here"

[...]

The issues I have is that I just barely understand certain things

[...]

Thanks for any tips or help you all have provided or will provide!!

And my hint would be: I agree with the posts above.

I wont, by no means, take you down, but your quote above: "I want..." vs "I just barely..." makes a bit of an equation with no solution today. You have to learn how those parts really work; what this resistor do and what that cap does... to be able to design something that you really can call "your own".

After all; If some of the gurus here (there are many helpful dudes for sure!) tell you exactly how to implement a tonestack with given values in your OD circuit... then its not your own design either, is it? It would be just another "put these parts here"-thing

So... get that breadboard out as said...

another hint is to do some digital simulation. Try some Spice software (i myself run Tina-TI, others run LTspice or 5Spice)

Also: download the ToneStack calculator: http://www.duncanamps.com/tsc/ , and play with it. Change values, breadboard the result!

Also: Read here: http://ampbooks.com/home/amp-technology/james-tonestack-analysis/, great site with deep facts.


I myself know quite a bit about electronics and physics in general. Even so, i find myself with 10 new questions a day. Some of them can be answerred through some google- n madbean-browsing... some of them i ask here. It's a fun world with an endless amount of questions and facts:)

Now i hope i dont sound too "boring". As said, i have no intention to take you down. But sometimes there really arent simple short cuts:)


Good luck! And dont forget to have fun:)

I just want to learn so that I CAN do it...

Mods, if any of you read this, can we move it to the "How Do I?" subforum? It seems more appropriate there.

Yes please, I apologize for the placement of the topic.


As far as the blue section, I'm assuming the caps going to VR are some sort of filters and the resistor connected to the middle lug on the tone pot is limiting some of the filtering on C8?

I might be totally wrong though haha

p.s. Note that I've demured from telling you how to just do the mod for the same reasons everyone described above. Once you've expressed a desire to create something or modify it substantially, there is no substitute for hands-on experience, research, study, and a trusty online calculator that fixes an inability to work with numbers (er, well, I need the last one, but others might not).

No, I totally understand this. I appreciate it, actually.

But as far as me not understanding schematics, what I don't understand is how to find out which part of the schematic does what. Like on this image:



Is the red part the tone stack or the blue (I know the top part of the schematic is attached to the VR's)? Or is it something else entirely? These are the kinds of things I don't understand about schematics lol