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I did some YouTube watching. Seems like with this, I wouldnt actually need an envelope detector up front? IF it would just be on / off

It would be cool to try both but the on/off would be ok as long as one could determine where the threshold was set to cause "on" to happen.

Do you have any circuit blocks that might be a starting point?

thanks

Damn, this is over my paygrade but I certainly support your ambition!  Hope this all works out for you.  I hit retirement and then panicked, especially lately with the current direction of the country so am still working but really wanted not to.  Social Security is not a given anymore and the stock market is wrecking havoc on my nest egg so I figure I'll do what I do best till I can't.

I feel you dude. Im not at retirement age yet sadly (a ripe 41 going on 42 here...)
Whilst I am in the UK, what is going on in the US is definitely rippling hard over here - my stocks are down, heavily, too. Luckily I have time to rebuild I trust, and in the meantime my wife has a very solid career and can support us.

Hi. Ive been away for a long time but wanting to get back into the pedal scene.
Recently I lost my job and had a legal battle to fight about how that went down.
Now I am looking to take a career break and focus on things that make me happy (or happier)

I have a few ideas floating in my mind, resurrecting my old "gigahearts_fx" name and doing some pedals that people might even want to buy. hey, we can dream.

To that end, I want some help with a circuit idea. I think I know the answer but no harm asking smart people than relying on my brain.

I want a circuit that turns "on" in response to a threshold or gate influenced by picking strength. That to me would be an envelope detection circuit. however, what I want it to do is (when "on") divert the signal to another effect, or a send out somewhere else perhaps, rather than influence the Q of a filter as in an autowah.

Therefore, what would I need to tie the envelope circuitry to, in order to do that?
In things like the Lovetone meatball, the pick attack causes an LED to get more bright, but I want to avoid LDRs where possible. Is it something that a basic transistor can do based off the change in voltage coming out of the envelope generator?

Hope this makes sense

Thanks for any help

Ian

Dear Paul

I was so sorry to read your news. As everyone has already shared much more eloquently than me, stay positive and draw on whatever makes you happy.

Take care

Ian

Or, just regulate the 9 to 5 before the inverter. +/-5 out.

Learnt something new today. That would have saved me some parts

Had a think about this. I imagine just a charge pump LT1054 inverting to -9v and then a 337 adjusted to -5v
Then from the 9v input a standard 5v regulator 78L05 should do the trick

Hey everyone

I recently acquired a 78 IC deluxe big muff - the first version with the blend switch
Schematic is here https://postimg.cc/F7LVjGz1

It came with a 110v transformer and plug, and Im in the 240v UK
So I took an EHX transformer from another 70s pedal I have (Clone Theory) and wired it up.
Pedal works as it should, to the best of my knowledge

Two issues however.
1 - ideally I want to get rid of the noisy transformer
2 - its getting quite hot in operation and Im not sure thats normal / risky. Not too hot to touch but very warm
3 - the pedal uses a wierd power supply set up with a rectifier diode, and Ne5554n regulator chip

The power requiremens are basically bipolar +5v and -5v

I am wondering however if its possible to run it just off +9v and ground?
Alternatively, does anyone have a nifty circuit to make +5v and -5v like a RoadRage but different??

Thanks for the help!

Ian

So glad this wasnt just me

Sorry for the insomnia and doubts!

Thanks for everyones thoughts

I got some new solder in the post and its working great.

so it must be an off roll of solder, or its oxidized / aged and the flux has "died" somehow.

I also got some flux that I can try with the "off" reel and see if that helps

cheers

When I purchased the replacement I went to the vendor and I am confident its a genuine part.

Its certainly seems consistently hot....

Its super wierd. Will update when I get new solder and flux

regards tinning the tip, the solder just wont stick to it. And this is brand new, expensive tips too not old ones.

Hi All

Looking for some advice.
I have used the same soldering station for a long time, a Xytronic LF-1680
Its electronically controlled and can set the temp.

Ive always used (dont judge!) 60/40 solder, 1mm, rosin flux coated.
Ive never really needed extra flux.

Recently the iron tip thing broke - not the metal tip, but the ceramic part inside somehow.
I ended up replacing the whole "wand" as it was better value to do so.

Now, fast forward a little bit, I am really struggling with cold joints. Ive replaced the tip multiple times. I havent changed brand of solder.

Any ideas wtf is going on? Can solder go off?
Ive ordered some more solder, and some additional stand-alone flux to try and figure this out.
Its sooo wierd, Ive never had this issue in like 15 years.

thanks

Sorry having a lot of forum problems.
It seems to vary, right now the forum appears grey/blue and works only from my PC

In the past weeks its varied from this colour to a brown colour etc and will or wont let me login or post
including saying I am banned etc. I dont recall ever being banned before

Apologies if considered spam, and feel free to delete.

If anyone knows the latest, PM me?

very cool

testinh if this works.

Lace