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So I ordered the suggested switch and it fit
like a glove, no doubt it's the correct part.
But, it's continuing to be a learning experience!
Yeah, I soldered It in face-up on the component
side of the board, real clean soldering job, proud
  of myself then...whoa I soldered it to the wrong
side. I just ordered a solder sucker.

OK, I think I'll get the switch you cited above. This is great info, thank you!

Hi,

This is the Effects Layouts  EF120. Here's the PDF:

http://effectslayouts.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/EF120-build-doc-2.pdf

I want to solder in the 2P6T rotary switch (made by Alpha) and have questions.

The switch has two pins in the center area, they are wider that the corresponding PCB holes, what's the best fix? At first I thought bend them and shove them in, but now I think add the fitting holes in the PCB then just jump it to where it's supposed to go(?) Also, on the underside of the PCB (which I didn't take a pic of) it looks like only one pin has a trace, maybe the other is just to make it sturdy (I should check the schematic).

How do I orient the switch? Maybe I'm wrong here, but it seems like there are two ways it can go in. I could just breadboard at this point before soldering and figure it out(?)

OK, one of my first projects. I initially bought rotary switches with solder lugs then realized it's through hole pins...so I'm getting closer. Thanks!

Lee G.

OK  thanks! Yes, for C27 got a 200v multi layer  NPO ceramic. It's  amazing  how small this cap is compared to the 63v film caps.

OK. Just to preface, my electronics knowledge is basic, so I might ask something that's obvious or basic. I appreciate the effort by the PCB developer/maker to make this project available,  I emailed him about a typo on the PDF and he emailed me back fast and cleared things up.

So there's no 1uf film cap needed even though it's cited in the shopping list, and C3 is 1nf cap even though its footprint is way big on the PCB.

My immediate question is about C27 in the power section in the schematic diag. does that look correct?

Here's  the PDF:

http://effectslayouts.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/EF120-build-doc-2.pdf

Thanks.

Hi, I'm a beginner, 1/2 way through stuffing and soldering a preamp PCB I bought, but going to pause here. Don't  want to mention  the PCB seller, they could be skilled and legit, though not sure they're  on the Madbeans list of recommended links.  Something worries  me, plus I have some basic electronics knowledge  but not enough to verify a schematic/PCB. Strongly assuming a PCB for sale   is totally verified esp. before buyer gets parts and soldering.

So there's typos on the pcb seller's PDF and so far non-critical booboos on the PCB layout . But now I see something  in that schematic that I don't  get, it could be  something wrong , maybe...don't  know. The original non-clone schematic  is not readily available out of respect to the circuit designer - they might do another run of it...cool. On vero layout blogs the equivalent verified vero project seems not to match the PCB schematic I bought if I seeing it right. As mentioned the original schematic not available. Of course there could be shorthand on the PCB seller's schematic I don't  get and everythings cool.

What do I do? I want to buy only PCBs I know are verified if I follow instructions correctly. Not that everything  has to be perfect...can I assume the recommended PBC links on Madbean  are usually OK people did the PCBs and verified?