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It's a 125B, the 1590B is a typo.

Ibanez designed the circuit for 9V, I've tried it at 12V and it doesn't sound any better, so I'd stick with 9V.

Thank you kindly!

I noticed on the Projects(DIY) page the Misfit is listed as a 1590B build, but on the PDF instructions there is only a 125B drill template. Could I use either enclosure?

Also, it says the CA3260E has a 16v supply limit. Will this sound fine with a 9v supply or should I opt for higher?

Thanks!

As long as the cap meets the minimum voltage rating it should work (without burning up). Beyond that, the voltage rating shouldn't matter too much. The next most important thing is the lead spacing. Most PCBs assume a 5mm lead spacing for most caps. Not all capacitors have the same lead spacing. Box caps are all 5mm, but not all green mylar caps are. Green mylar caps will work, they're just harder to fit into the PCB sometimes as the lead spacing varies depending on the value.

Awesome thank you. Regarding the green mylar caps, would you use those in place of box caps? Is there a difference in sound? I've only used ceramic, box, and electrolytic caps.

Green mylar can get fairly large when the value goes up. Really no reason to use them over box caps, IMO.

As far as electrolytic caps, for values 47uF and lower [edit] the 16v-50v are usually the same physical size and lead spacing. When you get into 100uF and above, a 35v cap is going to be larger in size and have a larger lead spacing than a 25v. For for 220uF and up I recommend sticking the minimum voltage rating required by a build.

For 47u, 100u, which are electrolytic, I'd recommend choosing 25V, 35V, maybe 50V.  Not a a rule, but in general larger voltage caps are much bigger (footprint size). They may not fit comfortably on the PCB.  Not really a problem for box film caps, they are usually rated for much higher voltages and are mostly similar in size, but you will see higher voltages (~250V) cost more.  You do have to be careful with them when they approach 1uF, those can get too big for boards sometimes above the 50V rating.   

Sound differences are rare with caps but I do see it mentioned from time to time.  I think tolerance will make more of a difference.  A cap meter can help with that.

Thanks fellas, that clears a lot up. Much appreciated!

As long as the cap meets the minimum voltage rating it should work (without burning up). Beyond that, the voltage rating shouldn't matter too much. The next most important thing is the lead spacing. Most PCBs assume a 5mm lead spacing for most caps. Not all capacitors have the same lead spacing. Box caps are all 5mm, but not all green mylar caps are. Green mylar caps will work, they're just harder to fit into the PCB sometimes as the lead spacing varies depending on the value.

Awesome thank you. Regarding the green mylar caps, would you use those in place of box caps? Is there a difference in sound? I've only used ceramic, box, and electrolytic caps.

Quickish question. I've noticed that most of the mbp builds have a 16v minimum for caps but when buying these, for example, there will be a 47uF cap with 16v, 35v, 50v, 63v, 100v, up to 400v ratings.

-Does it matter which voltage I get as long as it's the minimum rating?
-Is there a range I should stay in, like is 400v super overkill?
-Should all caps be around the same voltage or can I mix and match depending on what's available?
-Also, is it good practice to get the cap that has the higher life expectancy? Usually they're around 2000-5000 hours, up to 10,000 hrs. I've noticed the higher voltage caps can have a higher life expectancy.

Thanks in advance. Too many options have confused this newb.

I use Tayda a lot as well. Over the past several years I've had one bad bag of electro caps from them that caused a few big headaches, but other than that all has been very good.

I get most stuff from them, I like getting enclosures and switches from Lawrence at love my switches. There stuff if a nicer quality than tayda, and for mechanical stuff like switches that matters (to me at least). I occasionally order from smallbear if there is something more specialized that I need. They are a true gem.

Mouser is also very, very good, but doesn't have quite everything you can find at tayda that people end up using for pedals.

I'll be honest with you. I've been using Tayda for as much as I can for as long as they've been around. Rarely if ever  have I had a part that failed.


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I haven't bought much from tayda. I mostly deal with digikey, smallbear and mouser, in that order. Pedal parts plus and love my switches occasionally.
Some bulk stuff from AliExpress. The big packs of resistors for a few bucks are a must. Think I got 110 values, 25 each for ~$4 a couple years back. Sort the in a couple of recipe card boxes with dividers in-between every 10 values or so.
But, my point in all this, is through recent comparison shopping, small bear beats out mouser/digikey in pricing on a lot of components right now. My guess is much of their inventory was purchased 2+ years ago before everything went up. Some silicon items were almost half price there.
Also, I've grown against buying silicon from discount sources. Get your transistors and ICs (and Electro's) of name brand from reputable sources. I've gotten trannies from Ali that were obvious rebranded generics with hfes way off the datasheet spec.
I also try and support the smaller shops as much as possible. 5 cents here or there is a small investment in the health of the hobby.
While I'm ranting, I do like AliExpress for bench stuff. Banana to Dupont connectors, perfboard and the like.

Thanks everyone, this is exactly the info I was looking for. I'll have to try out the other companies listed as well. Happy building!

I'm a relatively new builder and had good results with my last build exclusively with Tayda parts. I'm trying to keep costs low without sacrificing sound. Has anyone done a sound comparison between the two? Tayda is damn cheap. Or if there are parts that you guys could recommend I only get from Small Bear, like transistors , diodes, etc; And get things like resistors, pots, caps, etc from Tayda. I don't know much about components but I plan on building a ton of pedals. Of if anything what components are crucial for sound quality and shouldn't be skimped on? Thanks!

Yeah, I'm going to defer to Brian's suggestion.  For the cost of the shoulder washers with shipping, you could simply buy a plastic DC jack.

The best approach is to not use it at all, IMO. You might be able to insulate it from the enclosure but it's a failure point waiting to happen. The third solder tab is likely for a battery + connection.

Makes perfect sense, I'll just grab a plastic one, thank you both for the swift replies. I just built my first Madbean pedal, Weener Wah, and it's superb! Side question: (Maybe should be a separate post) But how does The Laureate compare to the original, and is it based on the 1993 Natural OD?

Hello, I have a metal dc jack that shorts when I plug in the adapter but when the jack isn't attached to the metal enclosure, and is free floating, the pedal works fine. Also, there are 3 solder posts on this jack. What's the 3rd one for?

Besides insulating the jack from the enclosure with shrink-wrap or something, what's the best approach to fix this? I'll probably be using the plastic insulated jacks next time. Thanks in advance!