Messages

Marco?

Nice work! Glad you didn't have to replace the pot.

I will check! What would I expect to see there if something's off?

At full CCW (lowest volume) it should read close to 0 ohms, and then at full CW it should measure close to 100k ohms.

if you turn through the pot's range (slowly) you should see a sweep of ascending values. Malfunctioning pots will have random jumps towards the pot's max value. Might not jump up to 100k, but it'll be higher than it would normally (ideally) plot.

You cannot view this attachment.

That's super weird. I would think it's the volume pot to blame if it's way too loud, but said it read as expected?

How's the continuity between lug 1 (ground) and another ground pad? Could try some safe contact cleaner to see if there's something prematurely bridging lugs 3 and 2?

Probably a crazy thought, but what does R7 measure? That's all I got! Hopefully it's helpful.

the level of brightness on any LEDs I get from Tayda is stupid these days!

I'm using the top hat/flat top for indicators and yeah, the CLRs are much higher. I haven't noticed it with the diffused ones, but maybe I haven't tried them recently.

I saw some NOS ones on eBay a while back, but he was asking almost $0.50 per. 

Do the newer ones at Tayda just have a higher Vf, or is their curve different? I should trace them... gotta get my money's worth out of that DCA75 

The Chiodo Brothers?

Beautiful suggestion and already done - just a couple dabs in select spots to make me feel better about my life choices.

Nice! I've built the EffectsLayouts Sonorous a while back, and I have yet to finish building AlephNull's Troglodyte.

It's handy to have some extra bit of that and stick it wherever you want in the signal chain.

Nice!

I wasn't (and am still not) convinced my leaf sockets are strong enough to hold that brick for the long haul, so i added some padding to the base to kind of hold it in there. I think the leaf sockets are brilliant, I just think mine are cheap lol.

Never tried socketing a Belton Brick before. I know some find it tacky (ha), but a bit of hot glue wouldn't go amiss in there, too.

Got any sound clips you'd be willing to share?

Cool. Thanks for that!

I know I've already spammed this thread, but I'm curious how the original compares component wise to the two knob version. Robert did a trace of that version, called the Counterweight. Here's the schematic of that one. I'm planning on working up drawing up a schematic of the vero layout of I've got time, but wondered if you had thoughts.

That's super slick in that wah/vol enclosure. Nicely done.

Regarding the 1/4W resistors, shouldn't be an issue as long as the leads or solder joints don't cross any adjacent parts/connections. IMO it can definitely look pretty  tons of old classic pedals did this—even full vertical—with resistors, diodes, you name it. As long as you have the vertical real estate, it's no biggie.

You cannot view this attachment.

Oh I'm not the OP, sorry. Looks like they were on in May. Might be worth a DM to get more info.

Fantastic as always.

The tone shaping between mids and tilt has this prickly octavey tone that I haven't gotten out of a muff. then you can, like you said, pull it back into muffly territory. Now I just have to riff on that MOSmuff you got me musing about.

That's the one.