Messages

Couple things I'll add:
If you go the route of buying parts based on the project(s) you'd want to build, it's good to buy more than you need—within reason.

Resistors are typically pennies, so no real harm there. Caps hover around 10-20 cents (US) each, so use your own judgement there. Some other common parts like barrier and schottky diodes, certain silicon transistors, and others are inexpensive.

I'd sort out some part storage if you haven't already—doesnt need to be fancy. Be aware that nearly all partitioned plastic bins are not ESD safe, so things like ICs, transistors, and diodes should be stored in ESD bags (not the pink or blue ones, but real mylar-looking ones, though they aren't actually mylar).

Welcome!

I'm sure you'll get more replies, but you're on track with what's good to have on-hand. Typically, if you're just starting out, the least expensive components like resistors and certain capacitors. Other parts can be bought ad hoc, but it's good financial sense to buy them from as few distributors as possible

While tempting, some of the Amazon kits aren't what I'd call "quality" but if you're looking for soldering practice, they work just fine. Speaking of, I know you mentioned you have a decent setup, but if soldering components is relatively new, I'd suggest purchasing some practice boards, especially for SMD (which has been creeping its way slowly into DIY).

For more expensive things like BBDs (bucket brigade device) for delays, chorus, phaser, flangers, you'll definitely want to buy a la carte. (or, out of necessity, rather)


What I would do is choose a few easy ("noob") projects from Bean's Standard Series, and purchase your first swath of parts based on those. In a lot of the build documents there will be links to parts also.


There are several places you could buy parts from. These are my thoughts, but others will have suggestions as well.
Stomp Box Parts is a well-stocked, US-based supplier. They even have whole pedal kits (which look like they are boards from PedalPCB). Their prices have been very competitive, especially for sellers stateside. I think they have the most well-rounded selection of parts.

Tayda Electronics is a very well stocked supplied based in Thailand with (for the most part) decent shipping rates. They also have drilling, finishing, and even UV printing services. However, there have been reports of mixed production times for all of that as of late. That said, they have nearly everything under the sun, except germanium-based parts for things like vintage fuzz circuits, etc.

Small Bear Electronics. These guys were the place to go back in the day, but after the original founders sold to SynthCube it's been mostly okay, but recently kinda spotty, IMO. They do carry some harder to find parts the other vendors don't (if they're in stock, that is).

Love My Switches is another. Like the name says, they carry switches! More of the hardware side of things: enclosures, jacks, switches, knobs, etc.

Sometimes deals can be found at places like Mouser and DigiKey (large-scale suppliers), and are the most reliable place to get standard dual op-amps and other (still in-production) ICs, though navigation, shipping, and MOQ can be tricky if you've never ordered there before, and it's easy to drop money on the wrong parts.


I favor SBP and Tayda, personally. Between them you can find just about everything.

The charge pump is just to raise the voltages. I built one without a charge pump and then powered it with 9 and with 18. The only difference there was is when the breakup started.

There is a difference in clipping diodes, that for sure. I like to audition GEs to see what I like.

EffectsLayouts / storyboardist once had a project based on the bare bones klone project on FSB forum (skeklone) that omits the charge pump entirely in favor of using a higher quality set of dual op-amps (or a quad in the case of the skeleklone). Essentially, like jimi said, the charge pump is to keep the TL072s from distorting "improperly".

From the skeleklone 2 build doc:

based on the Bare Bone Klone concept put forth by FSB member earthtonesaudio. The idea being that the charge pump in the Klon is unnecessary, as the only reason it's there is to keep the 2nd opamp from clipping. However, since clipping diodes are in the signal path before signal reaches that opamp, and the fact that the 2nd opamp in a Klon can clip even with a charge pump, the presence of the charge pump isn't really needed. Especially if you use op‐amps that sound better when distorted.

And the clipping diodes make the most difference. Taste is subjective, and this horse has been beaten to death ...again and again. So Jimi is 100% right: experiment with what you like the best. I played myself, not knowing some of the diodes I had were not genuine 1N270s, and I actually ended up liking them the best.

Check out the build doc for the rev 3 Sunking for some recommendations:

...1n34a, 1n270, 1n60, BAT41 and 1n914. It's a good idea to socket these two and experiment to find your favorites. My personal favorite is BAT41.

I think I tricked myself with some unlabeled, weirdo 1N914s. To add my opinion to the pile, the 1N60P is good, also. I personally hate the sound of the 1N34A. Soviet era D9E is nice.

No. Electrically the 1044 and 7660 are the same. But if you believe that a JRC4558 from the '70s is the only true marker for a tube screamer, then I doubt anyone can convince you otherwise

As with all pedal applications you'll want to get the "S" SKU —TC7660S/1044S otherwise you'll get heterodyne squeal

Don't waste your money on a 1054

gorgeous! coming together nicely, gordo!

tracked down the old version (2018) https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/MalificentMids.v1.pdf

Woohoo. I dunno how I missed this.

Nice work!

As you saw, I'm getting on with it and looking forward to jamming.

I've also got Kester 44 63/37 at .020 for nearly everything.

Very nicely done! That laser work is clean —do you still have your 10W? I've thought about upgrading, just so I can work faster.

And nice work with the pcb layout, too!

I have a few pedals with unlabeled controls. To me, there's a point at which it's too many knobs to keep track of. The acceptable number goes up if there are design conventions I can follow (I know what knob does what on a two or three knob dirt box), or other hints (like knob color). I think the same threshold should apply for wacky labels as does unlabeled controls. Of course, if you're building for yourself, do whatever makes you happy.

I hear you. Also, I saw a klein bottle build today and thought, "I don't care how that's labeled, that's too much of $knob"

Lovely as always!

Thanks, dude! I'm hoping it will work out when I tackle RICHIE MARCUS, since I'll be doing the Promenade pedal by hand. And, well, depending on how things play out in the next week or so, I might be doing them all by hand

https://www.reuters.com/markets/us/shippers-scramble-workarounds-ahead-threatened-us-port-strike-2024-09-25/

Dude, this looks amazing! Nice, clean layout, cool graphic, and good typography. I'd love to hear it. I don't tend to be a fan of knobs with labels that don't clearly indicate the effect, but in this case it fits so well with the theme that I like it. Well done!

Haha thanks.

I do love the sound, I'm just bashful about recording. I had a rather cavalier approach with earlier builds, but I want to make a small amount of effort going forward

I'd call it somewhere between a Buzzaround and a Bosstone, but that's just me.

I've talked myself down a few times with control labeling—going off the rails in the idea bin. I often wonder if off the chain labeling is worse than no labels, to be honest. At a certain point if it's blank, but you still like the pedal, then you just memorize what each one does or just the position of them for your tone. Other times maybe it just seems like I'm ripping off Lamb...

Thanks!

That one is ai generated. I'm winding down my use of it in my designs, to be honest, but this one was too good.

A scuffle at the bar. Two idiots beyond the tipsy are pointing at the barmaids, occasionally opening their mouths with a shred of coherence, swiping at passersby, nigh on spitting. The bouncer is asleep, and the shadowy loner in the corner calmly looks over, sighs, and looks down at his drink. The voices get a bit louder, and the doorman is still chatting up a hopeful patron. My boy picks up his pint, finishes it with a light lip smacking, and quietly stands up walking towards the bar with a casual gait.

"Let's go, boys" he flatly says as they are frog-marched out the back, and gives them the trouncing of their lives. All the two bloodied hooligans remember from the night's altercation were the snout, the gloves, and the ...tightness of the jeans the antlered avenger was wearing.





Eyy, look, a not-Fallout-themed pedal for once  : P

I've finally gotten around to finishing up the Dizzy Elk from @peccary who graciously send one my way. I took my time, and breadboarded to audtion a few bits. Went with MP38A spaceships for Q1 & Q2 & a towering AC127 (generously gifted by @jwin615 ) for Q3. The transistor is apparently a D9K, but the bag I had it in was labeled differently. But whatever, I like it. Tweaked C4 and C5 to have a larger gap (100x vs 10x), at 330n and 3n3 respectively.

The enclosure I decided to hand drill and laser my design. The original intent was to burn in a stencil of sorts and paint fill. While it didn't go like I originally envisioned, it turned out how I want. I like the antiqued look (hey, Fender adds a $10k surcharge for dentists who want this on their strats they'll never play 🤡 )

How it sound? I think this thing has some killer tone and flexibility for a fuzz. I've been fuzz touring since I got back into this, and it's a mighty fine machine.

Thanks for lookin ...my eyes are up here.

Dude, this awesome. I'd love to buy a board from you.

wah hey! The legend returns