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That's about what I figured was the safe bet thanks!

Yeah he's been directly helpful with me more than once already!
One more question: is it REALLY okay that the output jack ONLY has the positive wire connected to it? There's no ground wire connection shown in the build docs. I've never seen such a thing before...

I've been doing this for a couple of years actually...this is just my first Aion build: I've been doing stuff from PedalPCB.com up to this point. There's just a scant few things unique to this build that I'm unfamiliar with, and of course it being a true preamp and two-channel, the component count is a bit higher than I'm used to.

[BOTH]

THANY You @szukalski !!!

So, just to be really clear (this is new territory for me)...

• The pull-down resistor can be any ol' metal film 1/4 watt I have laying around, as long as it falls within that value range?
  BOTH 3PDT toggles—the left side one for bypass, AND the right side one for channel—should be of the on/on variety?

Thanks again...really excited by this build!

Hey so I don't see any other forums out there where people are having conversations with @aion about his amazing PCBs, so I hope this is a good place to post questions. I could ask directly but why not share the love?

QUESTION 1:
What is the deal with the component on the parts list that is labeled as "RPD" and why is it given a RANGE of values..."1M to 2M2"? What exactly IS an RPD, and why is the exact value unimportant? In people's build pics it seems to always be a different base color than the other resistors so I'm not sure if that implies it also may NOT be metal film but something else?

QUESTION 2:
So I'm actually gonna be mounting this in a rack enclosure, and as such I would love to be able to substitute 3PDT toggle switches instead of stomp switches. So what "unctionality of 3PDT toggle am I going to need for the "bypass" and the "channel" switches respectively? "on-off" and "on-on"? Something else?

Would love to have some knowledge on all if the above, and THANKS in advance!!!

Thank you @mjg makes perfect sense!

I would argue the "always on" LED still serves a function:: looking F#%*ING AWESOME.

So @mjg based on your suggestions, am I correct in thinking that the "L1" and "L2" pads within the bottom row of the PCB are both actually GROUND pads, and thus serve the exact same purpose as the circular "L1" and "L2" pads on the PCB's top hump?

Hey guys—just got my first-ever madBean PCB in the mail, and this is my first post on the forum as well! I've built lots of other pedals from pedalpcb.com and others, but no MadBeanses 'til now.

I'm putting this build into a 2U rack enclosure (along with a bunch of other builds) rather than the usual standalone pedal enclosure, and they will all be armed/disarmed via my Voodoo Labs HEX loop switchers and a midi floorboard. SO, what I REALY want to do is just forget about the 3PDT switch altogether and just wire it up so that the pedal is always on, as is the LED, with no switch needed.

Any tips? I'm guessing I'll want to forget about the J1 and J2 pad pairs at the back of the board altogether, and just wire the input and output jacks completely to the six pads at the front of the PCB in the proper combination, and bridge a couple of those pads so that the LED stays on, but that's about as far as my brain is taking me at the level of experience I have.

Any explanations or "cocktail napkin drawings" you guys could offer, I would HUGELY appreciate!