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Definitely a problem with cookie storage. That would explain most everything. I'll see if I can get it sorted.

came to the forum to check if it's back yet and had some other name, but once i logged in it was fine.

glad to see it back and the shop had changes made, sent you a email thinking something happened, glad it was just the updating you mentioned some time ago.

after posting i was sent back to the main section, appeared to be logged out. cookies are kind of working properly, haven't been in a CMS in a long while so i'm probably of no help. 

Just a heads up to keep everyone in the loop:

Cool

I have one sitting in my parts box still, I wouldn't use it since it isn't the same.

Have anyone tried succesfully Tayda's 1mH inductor for VFE switching boards?

In Brazil it's almost impossible to get stuff from mouser... Customs here suck so bad

Don't know if it even works.

Found it on the side of the road and stripped it for parts, probably have to test everything. 😂

Hope the transistors in there can be used. Maybe experiment with some and see what happens.

Sorry guys, been raining here a lot and the cortisone shot in my back has been wearing off. Lucky me 😂

Optimistically I'd like to build one of the fuzz pedals I've been looking at the 4-track fuzz from fuzz dog or even the fuzz from guitar.com article build your own fuzz pedal.

I doubt I've got the parts for it to be Ge, but something to experiment with, maybe a jen fuzz or something entirely different I hadn't thought of like a amp. 🤷‍♂️

Anyhow I've also got a line 6 vetta amp head that I've been salvaging bits from time to time from for 1/4 jacks or knobs etc. post pics of that shortly to the same folder.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/w4wxffvlnxup6os/AAApEUr7N1Q9LHaccHtD656Oa?dl=0

No one can help?

Found one on the side of the road, spent a hour breaking it down and stripped ribbon cable, wiring that is appropriate pedal building size.

If I post pics of the boards can anyone help identify useful parts?
I see some that looks very useful, transistor, caps and diodes, but there are old IC chips to attempt to salvage if useful for a pedal. 😃

glad to hear the business will continue and i can still have a reliable source for parts.
i emailed and asked them about that and let them know i would miss doing business with them a few months ago with no response, i stopped checking their site since i expected it to be gone.

the parts i am referring to are the ones i keep finding in the original fuzz face designs, i think i want to build one of those and see how it stacks up against the big muff, rat and red llama i've built.
expecting to enjoy the clipping way more, the bazz fuss i built needs a new "gain/bias" pot, one of the legs broke off while i was trying to work on it the other week and i got to thinking how much the pedal sucks compared to others and i'd like something with more control over the fuzz or better sounding.

not knocking any of them i have or built, just want to get that vibe when i am attempting to play some david gilmour riffs. XD

Is it just me or are most fuzz pedals loaded with unobtainium?

With small bear gone or soon to be, where are we to get good parts for things like a vintage fuzz face?

Even a builder of a pedal that sounds really good and has some unique aspects has discontinued it, the Silicon Phuzz, though I don't know if it is due to locating parts or other reasons, but I'd like to see a schematic.

You can add another 3n9 in parallel and see how you like it, before you go soldering and unsoldering. I'd hate to pull up some pads.


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I tacked two thick left over legs onto where pin 1 and 3 connect to the main board, and it isn't much brighter than maybe turning the tone all the way up.

Maybe I will just add a dark and bright switch externally so I can have options for now until I can get a new pot ordered.

Tried it and it sounds close enough to half or just over for me to be ok with it.

Thanks JimiLee

That's what it sounds like to me too. You can jumper, I think it's pins 1 and 3, that should bypass the pot, but you would need to change the tone cap too. I would replace the tone pot and see where that gets you.


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I don't have one to replace with, not sure what value would be needed, but I do have a limited amount of film caps.
10n, 100n and maybe a few others around that value.

Can you use your DMM to test for continuity between r19 and pin 3 of the tone knob, c14 and pin two and r20 and pin 1 also? Then R20 and R22 and r20 and IC2 pin 7. I'm curious about a bad trace.

At pot rolled up = max tone (right)
At pot rolled down = min tone (left)

Continuity between:
R19 and pin 3 of the tone knob - yes neighbor pad to pad, through resistor no
C14 and pin 2 of the tone knob - yes neighbor pad to pad, through capacitor no
R20 and pin 1 of the tone knob - yes neighbor pad to pad, through resistor no
R20 and R22 - yes, after r20 to at start of r22
R20 and IC2 pin 7 - yes, after r20 to pin7
C14 to pin 6 - yes, after c14
At pot rolled up pin 1-3 - no
At pot rolled up pin 2-3 - no
At pot rolled down pin 1-3 - no
At pot rolled down pin 1-2 - yes

At pot rolled up resistance pin 1-3 - 9.5k
At pot rolled up resistance pin 1-2 - 1.076k
At pot rolled up resistance pin 2-3 - 8.68k
At pot rolled down resistance pin 1-3 - 9.5k
At pot rolled down resistance pin 1-2 - 0.6R
At pot rolled down resistance pin 2-3 - 9.5k

Through the pot I get continuity with it rolled all the way down from c14 to pin 1 bus side, when rolled all the way up I do not get continuity to pin 3.

Maybe I need to check the wiring, but it seems the pot internal is bad to me, unless it being 1.076k is normal between pin 1-2 when the tone is maxed.

If the pot is the culprit, can i bypass it some how for approximate middle?
I'm thinking I could by jumping pin 1,2,3 and then I would atleast not have it fully dark as it seems to be doing.

Can you post pics of the front and back of your build, otherwise, we'll be guessing until the cows come home?


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See page 1, I cleaned it off like Brian suggested.

Rebuilt my audio probe, I can hear a tone difference when I sweep the pot on the solder joints for the pot, R20, R19, C14 and C10 have very low volume C14 after the capacitor.

I took this cap out and tested it previously and its capacitance is correct, touching the tops of the electrolytic I can hear the signal on some.

Everything from C14 back t IC2 is really low following the trace, I'll draw a line on the board schematic.

Maybe that will help work out what's wrong here.

It may be me imagining things, but I can hear a slight change when using the amp directly...

Also if anyone wants to see the new audio probe I built, it's ugly, not as crap as the original since well everything was free except the clip, the piece I used from jumper wire, super and hot glue and the heat shrink.
Apparently the link expires Jan. 17th, I'll update to dropbox later.
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0242nvqzXO6NR7VK-G-NklPiA