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 You know with a lot of things in life, it's isn't just the "one thing" it's the sum of all the parts.  I'm going to socket the chips anyway and buy both, I'll A/B them to see if I can actually hear a difference, probably not, just curious as to why the 1044 wasn't used.
 I was reading an excerpt from the guy that built the Klon's, one of the biggests factors were the clipping diodes, so many manufacturers and he said some made a huge difference in the sound of it...  George Lynch swears the earlier version with the "Malaysian chip".  I don't know if that's the MAX1044 or the op amps??

Thanks for your reply!!!

CR

 Well not a build yet, I have the boards and gathering parts just a simple question.

MAX1044 from I gather were in the original, why use a ICL7660?  You can still get the 1044 and I know they are swappable, and I guess pretty much electrically the same? For no other reason than aesthetics I like to keep my builds as true to the originals as possible when I can, but wondering if there's a sonic reason...

Thanks
CR

Here's a clip of both the 2012 prototype and the 2022 PCB, one in each each channel, pretty damn close to me...

https://soundcloud.com/c-reinhardt-406023805/flanger-test?si=2da30fa38e804409986c80e204a473ad&utm_source=clipboard&utm_medium=text&utm_campaign=social_sharing

No problem, found the bad transistor, working as it should...

Now question for you.  Looks like you added an opamp stage to the NE5532?  What was the reason for that?
To my ears, the original sounds thicker, it's pretty easy to bypass that stage and make it like the original.

The original MXR used one op-amp shared between the LFO and the audio filtering coming out of the BBD. For the 2022 version I split that into two different op-amps then used the free one as an input buffer to the circuit. I suppose I could have made that part switchable. Actually had not occurred to me.

The reason I added the buffer is that it can sometimes prevent any ticking one might have with LFOs/modulation circuits.

Thank you for that explanation!!!  Very much appreciated....

I was just trying to compare what is different from 2022 to the 2015 prototype board I built.  The power supply is slightly different from your designs as well. Minimum filtering, no diodes or caps on the input side of the regulator, and just a 100u cap on the regulated side...  I like using a diode for reverse polarity safety...

I'll experiment and report back.

CR

 No problem, found the bad transistor, working as it should...

Now question for you.  Looks like you added an opamp stage to the NE5532?  What was the reason for that?
To my ears, the original sounds thicker, it's pretty easy to bypass that stage and make it like the original.

Can't wait to see the final builds in their enclosures

Been thinking about a flanger, but haven't pulled the trigger yet. Too many other builds in flight.

Everything was going fine until I put it in the enclosure!!!   I was going batty trying to trouble shoot, bad solder joint? Bad chip?
I went through the excellent trouble shooting guide, sound going into TP1, nothing coming out on TP2.  A few IC's had weird voltages, popped them out one at a time, popped them in my scratch build, no issues.  Started check transistor voltages, found Q2 out of whack and had the same voltage on the collector and emitter looking like a short in the transistor.  Pulled Q1 and Q2, tested them, Q2 was deff bad, tested new ones and replaced both.  BINGO!!!  All is right in the world again!!!

FYI Brian, the way you mirrored the pin assignments on IC7 CD4013 on the schematic, was driving me crazy!!

This is the best one ever

https://www.adafruit.com/product/1597

That's the one I ended up with, leaves a clean through hole like my old one.
This is what I use and love!

I built a scratch build and no issues, the 2022 I seem to be running out trimmer for the clock, it's pegged counter clockwise.  Sounds thin, so I'm guessing something with that LFO circuit maybe. 

What did you end up with for that 62pf cap?

 My ole trusty solder sucker, doesn't suck good anymore...  No comment....
Does anybody have a good recommendation??

I did a scratch build that turned out pretty good, my buddy wanted one, and I wasn't doing another scratch build.  Finally the boards were in stock, so here I go....

I love a large vero build.  Nice job!  What is the gray stuff on the trimmers though?

My guess is markers he's set for himself.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, and that's the last one I'll do!!

Sharpie, I wrote what each trimmer is for.  Not easy without the silkscreen!!!

 Well, being that the Collosalus boards weren't available for several years, I ended up building one on vero board that I found on the inner web...  What was I thinking???  It was by fare, the most difficult electronic project I ever did, and most difficult to trouble shoot.  Lots of solder lands to fix, had to relocate a couple of caps and resistors that were off by one hole.  Flipped one chip and had a fake MN3007.  But the thing sounds awesome!!!
So my buddy says can you build me one!!! Ugh!! Never do another one like that!!! But, Brian started making the boards again, and I got a couple to build....

 Are these boards still available??

CR