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I finally got around to building the Uber Tuber a couple of days ago. It went together fine and worked OK but there were some things that bothered me. First of all, the Sat and Cut controls didn't seem to do anything and secondly, the overall sound was dark, even dull. The problems with the Sat and Cut controls have come up in other posts, here's how I fixed them: For the Sat control, change the clipping diodes to germanium types. I used 1N60 but any other type should work. Schottky diodes should work too. For the Cut control, I put a wire jumper across pins 2 and 3 of the pot. This makes it work like the tone control on a Rat. To brighten the overall tone, there are a couple of mods that Brian suggested in another post: Change the bright cap across the Drive pot from 100pF to 470pF and change the cap on the Cut control from 10n to 4n7. I'm now totally happy with the sound of this pedal.

Mine might be a dB or two "bassier" when the effect is engaged in the 2 and 4 stage settings, not so much in the 6 and 8 stage settings. I probably wouldn't have noticed if you hadn't mentioned it. I wouldn't say it's a dramatic difference. It's nice to have a little boost when you kick in an effect.

The Mu-tron Phasor II is one of my favorite phase shifters and the Madbean version adds some new colors to it. Now, if we only had a Madbean version of the Bi-Phase . . . (hint hint)

I'm glad you were able to update the PDF so quickly. BTW, I was unable to recover the password for my original account. I tried so many times that the forum eventually blocked me. This isn't the first time this has happened to me and I've given up on this in the past. But this boo-boo was serious enough that I went to the trouble of creating a new account with a different email address.

On a positive note, I've built a bunch of these projects over the years with excellent results. Keep up the good work!

On the Glasshole schematic, the collector of Q1 and R46 connect to a net called VC. Unfortunately, this net goes nowhere, therefore there's no power to Q1. I was wondering why the LED D2 seemed to turn off and on abruptly rather than ramp up and down smoothly and why the trimmer T1 didn't seem to do much. It turns out that with no power to the transistor the LED is being driven by the opamp and the LED is off during the entire negative cycle of the LFO. I was able to fix it by adding a jumper between the anode of D9 and the near end of R46. Now I'm able to adjust T1 to drive the LED with a nice triangle wave.