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Messages - Zoot

#1
Build Reports / Re: Pedalboard pics megathread
August 29, 2021, 05:09:55 PM
The Madbean Laureate,
An epitome of the philosophy of continuous improvement @MB.
Great board, great instructions, even now with great visual.
Congratulations Bean.
Cheers.
Zoot
#2
Hi Bean,
This is my humble rendition of your amazing creation. Definitely, the best pedal using the TAPFLO3.
I just made the multiplier mod.
Only wish would be that the tap-tempo LED would turn off when in bypass.
Cheers,
Zoot
#3
Build Reports / Psycho Retard
May 08, 2021, 08:11:32 AM
The Total Recall took me some time to figure out. I bought the first board too early in my DIY career, destroyed it, bought this second one, built it, and took then ages until I figured out how to bias it. Biasing it is a bitch, nothing else to say. I tried all the methods, coming back to the instructions one, and paying attention to this forum about the end of the process, which has a little quack in the instructions.

Now it's working perfectly, 550ms of delay, it sounds really beautiful and my son loves it. It does have some MODs: it's full bypass, and carries the two MODs proposed in the building instructions, one resistor change for humbucker friendliness and the audio blend pot. I changed the cap of the clock (C40) to 287pF (nominal) to adjust the clock period (132us) as per D. Morrin's calibration instructions. I also did the opamp mods proposed by Matt Weed from Electronic States and replaced the opamps as following: IC1 = OPA1642; IC3 = JCR4558DD; IC4 = TL072; IC5 = OPA1642; IC9 = TL022. To understand what it does, check Matt's article on his post which is much better than anything I could write myself here. (https://atomiumamps.tumblr.com/post/185732560726/vintage-deluxe-memory-man-clone)

The Bolsonaro/Joker art is from Brazilian tatoo artist Bruno Mello (personal usage only). The background represents the assassination of Brazil by its current president, pictured as Joker. The same president is represented in the name of the pedal, Psycho Retard... well, this being an analogue and vintage delay, there are several connexions... I let you imagine...

I hope you like it this build, which became very close to my heart. I built is for my guitar player son, and after such a painful processes for building and biasing it, I just ordered another board and will build one for my bass player son. I don't think this is a one-pedal endeavor...

Zoot
#4
Makes sense.
Will try through the weekend.
Thanks a lot!
Zoot
#5
Thank you Thomasha,
The rest of the controls (mod, fdbk, ch/vibr switch, blend, delay) should be in what position?
Thank you again!
Zoot
#6
Thank you Thomas, appreciated.
I've never came across this procedure. It seems straightforward. I guess, in the Total Recall with only 2 MN3005 I should just ignore what concerns VR3, VR4 and TP4, right?
Tanks again,
Paulo
#7
Quote from: Scruffie on March 10, 2020, 08:38:18 PM
DELUXE MEMORY MAN WITH CHORUS AND VIBRATO ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE (8/1/78)
Plug unit into 115V 60Hz. and set feedback and chorus/vibrato fully CCW, blend fully CW, delay fully CW and power on. The pilot light should come on but not the overload light. Connect the scope to pin 2,4,6,10,12, or 15 of the CD4049 and observe the square wave period. It should be between 120 and 140 usec. (add c across 240pf if necessary). Set the delay fully CCW; the period should now be between 8 and 10 usec. Set the delay to the middle of its range. With the switch in the chorus position slowly bring up the chorus/vibrato control, watching the square wave. The period should decrease slightly and become modulated at a rate of slightly less than 1Hz. At max. chorus setting the period should swing approx. 10% of its average value. Set the switch to the vibrato position. The modulation rate should go up to approx. 4Hz. Set the chorus/vibrato control fully CCW. Connect a 250Hz signal of 500mv p-p to the input and adjust the level control for the same level at pin 6 of the NE570. The level at pin 7 should be between .95 and 1.4 V p-p. Watching pin 7, increase the level. The overload light should just begin to glow at about 1.4V p-p and should be almost as bright as the pilot light at about 2.3V. No distortion should be visible in the signal - at this point. Look at pin 7 ot the first MN3005 and turn down the level for a signal of 1.5V p-p. Slowly increase the input frequency. The response at pin 7 of the MN3005 should be flat up to about 900Hz, rise to a max. of about 2V p-p at around 2.5KHz at which point the overload light should glow dimly, drop back to 1.5V p-p at about 3.8KHz and roll off sharply above this. Set the frequency back to 250Hz, the 2nd trimpot at about centre, and connect the scope to pin 7 of the second 4558, which is also the wiper of the first gain trimpot. Increasing the level setting as necessary, set the first bias trim for maximum p-p unclipped signal, then at a lower signal level set the gain to unity (output level = input level). The output level before clipping should be 3.8V p-p or greater. Vary the delay over its full range and if clipping becomes very unsymmetrical at either end, trim the bias a bit for a good compromise over the range. It is normal to see a lot of clock noise at the highest frequencies. The second MN3005 is aligned in the saw way as the first , except that the clock balance trim is carefully set for min. clock frequency at its wiper at maximum delay (min clock frequency) setting. This should be done before fine trimming the bias for symmetrical clipping and again after the bias is finally set, with the input signal to the unit disconnected and the scope gain high. Set the 2nd gain trim last looking at pins 14 and 15 of the NE570 and setting this trim so that the signal is equal in level to that at pin 7 of the 570. If this can't be done, go as far as the trimmer permits and re-adjust the first gain trim to achieve it. Set the level so that the overload light is on dimly, looking at the signal at pins 14 and 15 of the NE570. Set delay to max.(CW) and vary the input frequency from 40Hz upward. The signal should be unclipped and clean over the range. The response should show no peaks, but be flat at about 2.5 KHz and -3db,(x.7) at about 3.2KHz, where only a small amount of abiasing ripple of the waveform should be visible. Set the delay to min.(CCW), The response should now have a peak of about +3db (x1.4) around 2.5KHz and roll off sharply above 3.5 KHz with no trace of noise or abiasing.

That's the factory procedure, of course the 4049 was removed so measure pin 10 or 11 of the 4047 instead where it mentions that.

Hi Scruffie, all,
I've been trying to bias a Total Recall with David Morrin's method, as described here.
Strangely, when I get to the part where with the probe on pin7 of the first 3005, I start increasing the input frequency to 900Hz and above, instead of observing an increasing voltage, it decreases... it behaves totally different than what is described in the method. I'm stuck on this part. What can be wrong?
Thank you in advance.
Zoot
#8
Now, with all ICs loaded I'm getting the voltages in the picture.
Without any IC, I get in the REG I = -22.26V; O=-21.66V; G=0.00V
Why would I be getting a different output from the REG?
Thank you!
#9
I see, still learning this thing... I controlled the power rail n times, couldn't find anything that was sucking all the power...
#10
Found a bridge, which is going to be impossible to fix. It's on IC8 and am not eve sure it was causing the problem, as pins 4, 5, and 6 were shorted somehow. But after removing the socket and all the solder, they keep shorted. I was wondering if this could be a board defect. In any case I'll need another one if I want to continue with this project...the current is not usable anymore... have a look to its state...
#11
It does, exact same values. I just pulled off the last one. What Other component could be pulling all the current like this, or it has to be a short? Thanks
#12
BTW, R57 operating at ~150C, seems too hot, no?
#13
Look at this beauty, it just needs the right Voltage to work...
#14
Hello Everyone,
I'm going through some of the MadBean pedals and I find them awesome. Already finished a Karate Shop, and now dealing with a Total Recall.
I have same issue than Imhutant, meaning .8V just after the R57. I'm using a CIOKS PS, getting juice from 2 100mA 12V. Wiring is good, I get a -24.19 right on the board up to the R57, and after that it becomes 0.835V. Components are all on the right direction, both caps and diode. I changed the R57, no results.
Have you guys got to any conclusion?
Appreciate any help!
Best,
Zoot