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I may eventually go that route. I'm not quite ready to fork out the dough for a laser printer just yet. I am getting rather burned out on the whole water slide thing. I'm to OCD for water slide. It becomes exhausting trying to get everything perfect.

Cure time doesn't seem to be it. I've tried it from 4 days to 6months. Same results. It's just an issue bonding to the decal. I tried drilling a spot on an old test box that was just powder coat with no decal and it worked out great. The decal itself is baked on and bonded very well it's the envirotex that pulls away from the decal. I'm wondering if it the acrylic clear coat that I seal the decal with that's not playing well with the epoxy. What do you guys set your decals with?  I've always used the krylon crystal clear acrylic.

Thanks guys for all of the advice. Unfortunately I think I've tried almost all of these with some results better than others but ultimately still getting a degree of separation. I know for sure the decal isn't pulling up. I did bake it on. I pulled up on the epoxy where it separated near the hole and was able to remove a good amount of it and the decal was still nice and tight on the enclosure. It sucks because I've got to the point where I can pour it perfect and the enclosure looks sweet. This one flaw may be my deal killer

I've been fiddling around with the epoxy on some test boxes and I've got to the point where I can get it applied real purdy. Problem I'm running into is that it doesn't play very nice with water slide decals when it comes to A) drilling, B) cleaning out pre-drilled holes. I've tried it a number of different ways being ultra careful but I seem to be getting the same results. Seems like the epoxy doesn't bond well with the decal and I get separation like an air bubble between the decal and the epoxy. This happens whether drilling new holes or to a smaller extent while cleaning pre- drilled holes with the x-acto knife or drill bit but it's still there.  I doubt it's the decal pulling free because the separation appears between the two. I tried drilling a hole on part of the box with no decal and got great results. I've tried on epoxy that I tested 6 months ago and some I did 4 days ago, same thing. So what are your secrets if there are any. I really like the way it looks but if this is an inherent flaw that can't be remedied I don't want to deal with it.

Thank you much. I'll have a look

I'm looking to purchase some of the micro controllers for the vfe projects. My question is do I have to purchase a switching board to receive a controller or are they also available as a stand alone item. I have a standout, a couple of pinballs and a few dragon boards that I've had made sitting around. I don't need the switching board for these. Any help would be appreciated.

Hey guys I'm just about done building the Dragon. I noticed on the V-3 switching boards the decoupling cap was lowered from 150uF to 100uF. My question is can I do the same with the 150uF cap on the dragon? I'm assuming so but want to be sure. The lower profile I can make the board the better. I'm putting it in a 1590B instead of the B2. I know that the 150uF will still fit because I used it on the Standout in a 1590B. It's pushing it though. I'd rather use the smaller cap. If anybody can provide a little insight I'd really appreciate it. Thanks

After 6 successful VFE builds without a single error, the inevitable happened. I  installed the micro controller on the switchboard upside down. I found the problem after I powered the pedal up and found that the footswitch did nothing and the led stayed lit. I haven't desoldered it yet. Is there anyone else who has  experienced this blunder that could tell me if I damaged the IC or not? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Good idea. Thanks

I'll look into it thanks

I have everything else I need ie. the 2 10k/100k pots and the micro controller. I'm just lacking the PCB. If I get a hold of the eagle files, is there any sites out there that print up pcb's from eagle files?

Awesome thank you. Very much appreciated

Hey guys. I've got all of the parts needed to build the standout except for one key component. The PCB. Im fairly new to the diy world of pedal building.ive got 8 successful builds under my belt. Could someone point me in the right direction as far as having a PCB for this build made for me. I know there's companies out there that will make them. Where do I find the plans or eagle drawings. Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Unfortunately I discovered my love for VFE Pedals a little late in the game. 

Ok thank you

Hi guys. I have a question about the micro controllers. Are the 12F509's proprietary to the effect you received them with, or are they interchangeable with the different VFE pedals. I would love to make the standout and have 2 of the 10k/100k dual gang pots in my possession. I would just have to etch a board. Just not sure about the micro controller.