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Could you please include a headphone out for V2, this would be a killer feature, because the amount of gear that should be switched on and plugged in would be the minimum possible

That would be super cool!

There are some projects which have headphone out connections, just for the reference:
http://jmkpcbs.com/?product=testing-rig
https://diy.thcustom.com/shop/headphone-amplifier-stereo-simulation-v1-1-pcb/
https://diy.thcustom.com/shop/mini-headphone-extension-board-v1-0-pcb/
https://diy.thcustom.com/shop/super-mini-headphone-amp/

I'd love to see the same kit with the headphone out since I have limited space and can do things only during night hours.

MTK did a really cool job with this, and he did all the heavy lifting with the LED situation. I believe he used a "Sound to Light" circuit from Deadastronaut coming off of pin 15 of each PT2399 and one off of the dry signal too.

Thanks! Looks like that's something I need. Found that link (IC is 386): https://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/chickpea/sound2light2.jpg.html

Hello everyone!

There's a nice delay circuit by @diablochris which is called Sagan Delay. PCB of the effect is made by carchariaseffects: https://carchariaseffects.com/product-page/dc6fx-sagan-delay-v2-1-pcb/
They have this demo:

The cool thing about this particular build is very nice and useful LED indication: it has LEDs for displaying input signal, every delay stage, LFO and bypass. Just curious anyone has some ideas how it is done? The most interesting this is how these LEDs for each stage are done.

Thanks!

Hello everyone!

I'm building this PCB and it is not working. I've measured some voltages, but not sure how to debug further. Probably someone could give some advice based on the measurements.

In the output of the effect I could hardly hear dry signal. Normal and upper octave pots are working: if they are all the way down to 0, there are no output at all, but if I turn them all the way up, very quiet signal appears. The other 2 pots are not affecting the sound.

Inside the scrollable block is what I have:

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CD4013 near C1 ceramic cap
1   0
2   8.9
3   0
4   7.63
5   0
6   0
7   0
8   0
9   8.9
10  0
11  8.9
12  8.9
13  0
14  8.9

Another CD4013
1   0
2   8.9
3   8.9
4   0
5   8.9
6   0
7   0
8   0
9   0
10  0
11  0
12  0
13  8.9
14  8.9

TL074 near the trimmer
1   4.88
2   4.87
3   4.87
4   8.9
5   4.87
6   4.87
7   4.84
8   4.9
9   4.88 (for some reason I heard buzz while measuring voltage here)
10  4.87
11  0
12  4.87
13  4.87
14  4.65

Another TL074
1   4.87
2   4.87
3   4.85
4   8.9
5   4.56 (for some reason I heard buzz while measuring voltage here)
6   4.87
7   4.87
8   4.87
9   4.87
10  4.86
11  0
12  4.58 (for some reason I heard buzz while measuring voltage here)
13  4.87
14  4.87

LM324
1   4.87
2   4.88
3   4.85
4   8.9
5   4.85
6   4.88
7   4.83
8   0
9   4.88
10  4.87
11  0
12  4.87
13  4.87
14  7.65

TL072
1   4.86
2   4.88
3   4.45
4   0
5   4.59 (for some reason I heard buzz while measuring voltage here)
6   4.88
7   4.88
8   8.9

J201
D   8.9
S   8.2
G   8.9

2N5457 (near the PCB's corner)
D   4.85
S   4.87
G   0

2N5457 (in the center of PCB)
D   4.86
S   4.87
G   4.27


I made some tests using audioprobe, but I'm not sure how to follow the signal. I can hear dry signal in the beginning of the circuit, but then it is hard to follow it. There are some interesting points on LM324 though:

Code Select Expand


1    Loud dry signal with some noise
2–6  Very quiet dry signal
7    Loud dry signal with some noise
8    Some quiet hiss
9    No sound
10   Something very quiet but lower than dry signal (not sure if it octave lower or two)
11   No sound
12   No sound
13   Something very quiet but lower than dry signal (not sure if it octave lower or two)
14   Very quiet dry signal


Would be grateful for any help if something can be done with the PCB apart from trying one more time from scratch.

Thank you.

 I'm a bit stuck with one thing related to the same build. Probably someone has ideas how to investigate this properly.

Since sensivity pot already exists on musicpcb pcb, I used injection points like this (I have also omitted C3 cap as it was advised here):



Doesit make sense at all, or I missed something?

I have the following voltages:
1. Sensivity pot point; LFO on: regularly varies 3.2–5V (that's a sign that LFO works)
2. Sensivity pot point; LFO off: static 5.5V (that's expected I believe)
3. 386 Pin 5 point; LFO on: very slightly varies randomly around 5.632V
4. 386 Pin 5 point; LFO off: very slightly varies randomly around 5.602V

I cannot hear any LFO applied on wet signal for some reason. The curious thing is that LFO worked for some time once I have built the circuit, but then it stopped and I can't figure out what changed.

Would be grateful for any help.

Hello!

I would be really grateful if someone could give some ideas what can be wrong with my build. Actually, I'm building an Uglyface using musicpcb plate, and I'm also adding an LFO as described here. I'm stuck and don't understand why the LFO is not working.

The interesting thing that I've done LFO part twice and each time it didn't work. However, LFO was working on my 1st attempt for several minutes. Suddenly it stopped, but I can't figure out what changed.

What can be wrong? What should I check firstly? I'm not sure how to debug this and if audioprobe helps here. If some photos are required I can attach them.

Thank you.

I would like to build the same circuit. Since I'm having the same PCB from musicpcb, adding LFO looks one of the must have things. However, I don't have a veroboard, just a regular perfboard.

I've redrawn diagram to fit to perfboard. It's the same (just omitted "sensivity" pot since it exists on the PCB), but second look always worth it. In this example it would fit 6x15 board (can be even smaller). Would be grateful if someone could notice obvious errors. Will report once I have some news regarding the build.



P.S. Sorry for bumping this thread.