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Messages - Jesse

#1
Build Reports / Mini-me chorus
November 03, 2017, 05:27:18 AM
Its a Gpcb Mini-me...the led gave me trouble but i figured out that what i had was a common cathode led and what I needed was a common anode led.  Well I sort of Macgyvered it by removing the led from the pcb altogether and sending power from the dc jack to a clr to the 3pdt then one leg from the 3pdt to one anode and then one leg from the 3pdt to the other leg then from the cathode of the led to the negative of the dc jack.  Just used hot glue to secure the led to the enclosure.  Everything works and it sounds good!
#2
Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: bi-color led help
November 03, 2017, 05:12:49 AM
Mjg...you were totally right!
#3
Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: bi-color led help
November 03, 2017, 05:11:24 AM
I think the problem is I have a common cathode bi-color led and what I need is a common anode bi-color led!  Well I went a different route and removed the led, s4 s5 and s6 from the pcb and went with a wire from 9v to a 1k8clr to the middle of the 3pdt then one wire to one anode and one to the other anode then from the cathode of the led to ground on the dc jack and it works!!  Thanks for all the help guys...
#4
Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: bi-color led help
November 02, 2017, 11:51:28 PM
So... I ohmed s4, s5 and s6 from the 3pdt to the pcb and have continuity thru all three wires.  I also have continuity from s4 to s5 in one switch position and continuity from s5 to s6 in the other switch position.  I reflowed all three solder joints at the led connection to the pcb.  I also ohmed from all three led legs to the solder joints at the pcb and got continuity thru all three legs.  I can still power up the led (both red and green)  from a 9v battery with a clr and some jumpers by connecting negative from the battery to the anode (middle pad on D3) and positive from the battery to the 1k8clr to cathode "red" or cathode "green"... Still stumped.
#5
Build Reports / Falstaff Germanium treble booster
November 02, 2017, 03:32:26 AM
Im still new to pedal building.   Just finished this one.  It went well.  Worked right away.  Nothing special.  My wiring was not on point on this one.  I used Parks super glaze epoxy.   
#6
Tech Help - Projects Page / bi-color led help
November 02, 2017, 03:19:39 AM
I know it's not a Madbean pcb, but I hope I could get some help with it.  It's a GPCB Mini-me.  Im new at this.  Everything works except the status led.  I tested the pcb before I boxed it but mounted the led later.  I followed the wiring diagram exactly except i did not use the battery snap or dc jack for the battery.  The pedal works and sounds good, but I would like to have the led work.  It's a common anode bi-color led.  If I put power to it with a 1k8 clr from a 9v battery and some jumpers it lights up red or green depending on which cathode I connect to...so I know the led is good.  Am I missing something here?
#7
Build Reports / Re: Slow Loris
October 14, 2017, 12:09:53 PM
Here's the second one...only difference is the clear knobs.
#8
Build Reports / Re: Slow Loris
October 11, 2017, 04:04:15 PM
side view.
#9
Build Reports / Re: Slow Loris
October 11, 2017, 04:00:03 PM
Gut shot.
#10
Build Reports / Re: Slow Loris
October 11, 2017, 03:57:21 PM
Here's a pic.
#11
Build Reports / Slow Loris
October 11, 2017, 03:46:41 PM
My First Madbean build is done!  I built two of the Slow Loris rats.  It was a challenge getting everything in the 1590b but it all fits.  The 3mm led eyes look killer!  For the decal I used Photoshop and Avery clear shipping labels for inkjet printers.  My first try with the epoxy top failed as I used Bob Smith Industries 30 minute epoxy.  I didn't mix it right and had to scrap it all off.  I wanted to try Envirotex epoxy after that but had a hard time finding it locally so I went with Parks Super Glaze and I think it looks great.  It didn't work first try.  I traced it to the ic which I bought off of eBay from China (mistake!).  Got a good ic from Small Bear and it fired right up and sounds awesome!