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I started with BYOC (and GGG) kits in 2007. I think I've built all the things from both. I wish Keith and his clan well, too.

Me three. I'd like one.

The way the red looks like splattered blood over the other colors instead of ink emulsion with the other colors is incredible.

Things are getting better. The home page remembers me being logged in, and I'm still logged in when I navigate back to it, and I can see the hosted support forums now when none of this was working for me yesterday. Keep tinkering!

When on the homepage, it indicates I haven't logged in with options for login or signup. When I come to this thread, it shows me logged in at the top left of the page. I also can't see the content headings for members - just the links for the general pop open to everyone. Glad you're back up. Looking forward to full functionality.

I started out with BYOC and General Guitar Gadgets kits. There tends to be more off board wiring of pots in the GGG projects. The BYOC documentation for their kits is awesome. From building several Aion PCB projects, I can only imagine what a cinch it would be to assemble one of Kevin's kits. It looks like John Popper had quite the rig
(https://www.modernbluesharmonica.com/board/board_topic/5560960/773179.htm), but the last post is a decade old.

I found my harps (Lee Oskar) play well with modulation, but they didn't like boosts, overdrives, and distortion fx. I use a Shure green bullet into a Weber 5F2H amp. I could've had an input impedance issue, but I never followed through to learn why no signal passed through on harp when those pedals worked fine on guitar with that amp...

Let us know what kit you decide to build.

Rej,
Glad to see you're back.
Still have my some of the cache of BC109Cs I bought from you way back when...
Would love to get my hands on some Mu series PCBs whenever you figure out what you've got laying around.
Cheers,
Wes

For less than 5 bucks, I've been using these center positive wall warts and switching the positive and negative connections around on the DC jack for builds that need a 12V PS: https://www.ebay.com/itm/165916866971?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D245504%26meid%3D322a3a66f0434084b696419463b6cca9%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D8%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D234769675140%26itm%3D165916866971%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithRevOptLambda85KnnRecallV1ModelShadowTwoCPC%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A165916866971322a3a66f0434084b696419463b6cca9%7Cenc%3AAQAHAAABMPnNgQzrwy4hcSW%252F1r0wjcHUoW2vznLktC1ywnd%252BfgwtQMS7ujyLj2eDOBk%252F50Ne1qgZ1dSXcE24bIIJtJasc%252F0JNg9ZoBfoxG5ipKS4gKGt5mGnYx6cCiBsabEB6x82n%252FSUvhAHx%252BkWu9xVLu3Pw5m9nmSQZssASDqfGXYtJk3nnsJLO0LJuZC3sSnigm8iqOtdnA3ORFUa6qz9jbj9uGik09w3w7Noc9ipBO09W2jv7vvwxZqz0TCccygWCz7H4KpRopv9ngUcDSfUDZWtmcSHypbi2BvPy9XsFaV0OcrED9fTD8kz2m38QxA3m9B5Ys8N2hI6K2iACkuXAHu6yQQ3HRjuv32af98NU%252BTEWwgR5Stql9%252BiHCcgWEOSUsvSILIn0wIyVlgelqjXUXyxhBA%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675

My 7- and 9-year-old girls can be happy as clams playing Legos together. 5 minutes later, they've got the Wii nunchucks and are using them on each other to make Bruce Lee proud instead of playing the game!

I use these 40 pin SIP sockets from Tayda (https://www.taydaelectronics.com/connectors-sockets/sockets/sip-sockets/30-pin-dip-sip-ic-sockets-adaptor-solder-type.html). At $0.39, the price can't be beat. I know the link says '30-pin' but they're 40s.

Tight squeeze. Out of curiosity: What size enclosure is that?

2 days from TX to AZ with USPS. 70 days with UPS. Just received order today. UPS Mail Innovations only 10 to 14 days on eBay components from overseas even when going through customs. Normal UPS orders from Mouser arriving on time and fine since Mail Innovations snafu. I had a similar problem during lockdown and Mouser stepped-up and also replaced it at their cost. So, you weren't the only one in the forum, and I'm glad this saga is over for us... Happy building!   

Jameco is another option @ $2.45 each. No MOQ
https://www.jameco.com/z/LM13700N-National-Semiconductor-IC-LM13700N-Dual-Operational-Transconductance-Amplifier-w-Linearizing-Diodes-Buffers-36-18V-570mW_192532.html?CID=GOOG&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyt-ZBhCNARIsAKH1175i4uGLQGu7eMlh3zTVfSJZSZS0VLZcJkrV0_ZxpwzsYZ9LyWEv8_saAvpiEALw_wcB

@ m-Kresol
Sorry I dropped the ball...
Mouser still has plenty of those chips: https://www.mouser.com/c/semiconductors/audio-ics/audio-amplifiers/?q=2181

You can get still get single resistors at Mouser. They just aren't Xicon like before. Cheapest resistor will set you back 10 cents. You have to buy 10 resistors at Tayda. It will set you back 12 cents. I'm not really hung up on who makes what. You'll find brands from NOS military surplus to KOA Speer, Royal Ohm, Vishay-Dale, and Yageo all in my same build. I buy the oddball resistor values at Mouser and most everything else from Tayda. I like the blood red 3PDTs at BLMS. Digi-Key and Arrow are on par with Mouser and usually have something Aion specs when Mouser doesn't. I like to support the small businesses, too. Small Bear is going to have things no one else carries, especially now that it's part of synthCube. With the euro on par with the usd, Das Musikding and sources across the pond are options, too. Be wary of getting obsoletum, like TO-92 J201s and MN3xxx, from eBay, etc. It's best to buy these from others in the community: DIY GuitarPedals, DIY Stompboxes, GuitarPCB, LectricFX, Pedalhacker, Pedal Parts and Kits, PedalPCBs, and Stompbox Parts, etc. The scene has exploded since BYOC and GGG were the only ones selling kits. The DIY synth scene also has some crossover with guitar parts, so Modular Addict and Thonk UK are options, too. I mostly buy all my vactrols from Thonk. Good luck, there are lots of options for us compared to a decade ago  !