Messages

Ha!  I should've thought to look at the shape of the screenmask to indicate whether or not those caps were electrolytics.  Thanks! 

Is it possible those values are supposed to read nF instead of uF? 

If I can jump on this, I'm wondering about c5 and c12-14 as I am having a whale of a time finding anything bigger than 1uF on smallbear.  Is there something I'm missing here?  The pdf says to stick with panasonic or topmay, but I'm not seeing it. 
Any thoughts?

Would this be a good practice in-general?  Look at the data sheets to see if I can get away with a part that's one number off on the end?

I guess my thing is that small bear has a 1n5818 (and not a 1n5817), and Brian's directions call for a 1n5817, so I thought I'd try mouser.  If it's all the same, I'm fine going with what's on small bear since I'm getting some other stuff from them.

Hi guys,
i just got my first 6 boards in the mail and am starting to source parts!  I've built a few pedals before (the icon for my profile is a byoc rat build), but this is my first pedal build where I'm sourcing my own parts.  Building stuff (guitars, amps, effects) is usually fun and relaxing for me.  Unless either: 1. I'm trying to spray nitro (I'll gladly pay someone to shoot me in the foot before I try to spray/finish my own nitro again). or 2. I "need" the thing I'm trying to build.  Like when I was trying to finish a 1974-x build, but my other amp was out of commission.

Anyway, to my question: I'm on the mouser site to get the 1N5817 diode for the King of [K]lones build, but they all seem to have different ending letters. 
http://www.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Diodes-Rectifiers/Schottky-Diodes-Rectifiers/_/N-2xpr5?P=1z0y481&Keyword=1n5817&FS=True&Ns=Brand%7C0
What difference do these make? 
I imaging I might have a similar issue with other parts sourcing.  In general, is the part listed in the directions for the build close enough, and any type of that part acceptable?

Thanks for helping a noob!
steve