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Why are all of your readings negative? Did you have your leads reversed or is your power and ground backwards? It is late but, I can't quite wrap my head around that!

Yeah, I'm pretty sure that the multimeter leads were just plugged into the wrong ports, since the voltages of the circuit and my power supplies on the own were all negative and I found the manual online which said to plug them in a different way for voltages than I had done. Either way, the voltage going in was the same polarity as that measured in the circuit, so nothing seems to have been flipping

Check your soldering, reflow all your joints, they should look like little Hershey kisses. There is one joint that looks like it was missed entirely.


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OK, will do. Could you describe where the missed joint is? Some of the holes on the board were meant for wires directly to the switch, but my kit didn't say to put anything in them because the main pcb connects to the 3pdt switch through the switch's own board.

We need some clear well
Lit Pictures of both sides of the board and off board wiring.


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Will these work? http://imgur.com/a/FXPlC

Hi,

I bought an Electric Goddess kit from www.3pdt.com (it's their clone of the EHX Deluxe Electric Mistress), although through a seller on Reverb.com instead of their main website. I assembled it correctly (as much as the instruction book helped; it doesn't have a schematic included) and double checked everything, but when I turn on the pedal it has no effect on my guitar signal. Sound still comes out, but no flanging occurs no matter where the 3 internal trim pots or the 3 main potentiometers are; it sounds just like the true bypass sound.

What I've tried so far is reflowing all sketchy solder joints, messing with the 3 internal trim pots and the 3 big external pots, taking all the chips out and putting them back in, switching which jack I put my guitar input and amp output in, but nothing has changed the problem.

I've taken done all the things suggested by the DIYstompboxes.com troubleshooting guide. Here are the results:

What does it do, not do, and sound like: True bypassed the sound is unaffected, but when switched on and powered the sound is still unaffected no matter where any of the 3 knobs or 3 internal trimpots are (it should be flanging) but the light goes on. Notably, without a power source, true bypass is still the true bypass signal but switching the pedal on gives no sound and no light. Also, battery power doesn't work at all (yes, with a cable plugged into the stereo jack) and doesn't give any light or sound when switched on; I was only able to get it light up with a 9V Boss style power supply or a 9V output my BBE Supa Charger isolated power supply.

The above issue and the below voltages were with IC6 as it is oriented in my pictures. The printing on the pcb is rather unclear which side should have the notch of IC6 (as you can see in my pictures below), so I also tried flipping it around. When I did that, it still didn't have any effect on my guitar signal, but a new quiet and constant high pitch whine could be heard that was oscillating in pitch and responded to the potentiometers. It is almost as if that was the flanged frequency, except the pedal was generating that noise and flanging it rather than doing anything to my guitar. Because spontaneous noises generated by a pedal are generally wrong and because the manufacturer's picture of the circuit shows IC6 to be oriented how I originally had it, I flipped it back around.

Name of the circuit = Electric Goddess Flanger (www.3dpt.com clone of EHX Deluxe Electric Mistress)

Source of the project = http://www.3pdt.com/products/electric-goddess-flanger

Pictures of the circuit schematic and my finished (but not working) kit: http://imgur.com/a/FXPlC

Any modifications to the circuit: None

Any parts substitutions: None

Positive ground to negative ground conversion: Not that I have done, and not that I know of in the circuit.

Voltage of the battery I used not connected to anything: -9.14V

Voltage of the isolated power supply 9V output: -9.26V

Voltage at the circuit board at end of the red battery lead with battery plugged in = -3.2mV (does this mean there is a short on the board?) Voltage at the center of stereo jack at end of the black battery lead with battery plugged in = 0V

Voltages of all major components using isolated 9v power supply. Multimeter black was attached to negative/ground and red probed the components. T2 Trim set so IC2 MN3207 pin 3 = 4.91V. T1 Trim, T3 Trim, Range, Rate, and Color pots all at noon. Filter/matrix switch is up (which I think is normal flanging mode):

Q1: 2n3904 (NPN)

E = -4.71V

B = -5.29V

C = -9.16V

Q2: 5087 (PNP)

E= -7.95V

B= -7.86V

C= -2.27V

IC1: JRC4558

P1: -4.95V

P2: -4.95V

P3: -2.46V

P4: 0V

P5: -4.47V

P6: -4.93V

P7: -4.91V

P8: -8.93V

IC2: MN3207

P1: 0V

P2: -4.57V

P3: -4.91V

P4: -8.54V

P5: -9.17V

P6: -4.57V

P7: oscillating between -5.55V and -5.65V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P8: oscillating between -5.55V and -5.64V over about 11 seconds full cycle

IC3: LM324

P1: oscillating between -2.87V and -5.23V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P2: oscillating between -4.04V and -4.13V over about 17 (!) seconds full cycle

P3: oscillating between -3.97V and -4.05V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P4: -8.93V

P5: oscillating between -2.40V and -5.75V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P6: oscillating between -3.97V and -4.05V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P7: oscillating between -0.55V and -7.64V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P8: -4.93V

P9: -4.93V

P10: -4.80V

P11: 0V

P12: oscillating between -1.02V and -1.87V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P13: oscillating between -1.05V and -1.89V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P14: oscillating between -1.08V and -2.89V over about 11 seconds full cycle

IC4: LM311N

P1: 0V

P2: oscillating between -1.06V and -2.85V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P3: oscillating between -0.91V and -2.28V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P4: 0V

P5: -9.16V

P6: -9.16V

P7: oscillating between -8.47V and -8.93V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P8: oscillating between -1.08V and -2.95V over about 11 seconds full cycle

IC5: CD4013B

P1: -4.57V

P2: -4.57V

P3: oscillating between -8.46V and -8.94V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P4: 0V

P5: -4.57V

P6: 0V

P7: 0V

P8: 0V

P9: 0V

P10: 0V

P11: 0V

P12: 0V

P13: -9.17V

P14: -9.17V

IC6: CD4049B

P1: -9.17V

P2: oscillating between -4.55V and -4.57V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P3: oscillating between -4.54V and -4.57V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P4: oscillating between -4.56V and -4.57V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P5: oscillating between -4.56V and -4.58V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P6: oscillating between -4.57V and -4.58V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P7: oscillating between -4.56V and -4.58V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P8: 0V

P9: 0V

P10: oscillating between -4.57V and -4.58V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P11: oscillating between -4.57V and -4.58V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P12: 0V

P13: oscillating between -4.56V and -4.58V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P14: oscillating between -4.56V and -4.58V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P15: oscillating between -4.56V and -4.58V over about 11 seconds full cycle

P16: oscillating between -4.56V and -4.58V over about 11 seconds full cycle

D1: 1N4001

A (anode, the non-band end) = -9.17V

K (cathode, the banded end) = -8.76V

D2: 1N4148

A = oscillating between -0.93V and -2.28V over about 11 seconds full cycle

K = oscillating between -8.43V and -8.92V over about 11 seconds full cycle

D3: RD10 10V 0.5w Zener

A = 0V

K = -9.17V